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Route 6x6 Discussion Board * Restoration of older ATV's * How do you remove wheel flanges < Previous Next >

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ksfastman@kscable.com

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Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:43 pm:   

heat them up, then spray them with the pb blaster
while they're hot. then use a slide hammer, that has a universal puller. you can get them at harbor freight, and a number of other places.i got mine from a tool store here in wichita, though a friend ordered one from harbor and it's identical to mine, both made in china. same case, same attachment's. i'm not real big on chinese hand tool's, but i don't use a slide hammer very often. the most i've used it has been on my trailboss, pulled the axles out in 2 hit's apiece. it also worked for removing the sprocket's and bearing's that were frozen on the axles. i've got a 12 ton press, but the slide hammer worked allot quicker.
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kush

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Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:43 pm:   

Guys, somebody welded my Attex hubs to the axles. After getting out as much of the weld as possible. I clamped the hub in a vise & used an old axle to pound on the original axle. I must say it worked, but some of the hubs got ruined. It worked a lot better on my 252 that were just rusted on.
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pete6x6

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Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:43 pm:   

Kush,

Hehehe I had to do that also but when it was 2 degrees outside. Isn't that fun :) I had to cut two axles off to get them out because I could not hammer them out.
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kush

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Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:43 pm:   

Pete,

That's whats been holding me up on my 295. It took me so long to take the axles apart, that it's no to cold to work in the garage on the body or painting the frame. Have to wait for warm weather. Now I need to make sume hubs. Why didn't Attex make a 1 piece axle with
the hubs machined as part of the axle? Or did they & I've never seen one? Seems like it would solve the problem & be easier. Less moving parts etc.
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david berger (David3rdd)

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Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:43 pm:   

kush, why pull them at all?
the whole axel comes out as 1 piece with the hubs on.
i havent taken a hub off an axel in 23 years.
if its to modefy it to 5 bolt patern than adaptors work fine.
all is seid and done now but for future refrence by the next people who start restoration,
"it's not nesesary"
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pete6x6

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Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:43 pm:   

Dave,

I had to do it because the discs were both bent. Had no choice I need to stop this thing :)
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kush

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Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:43 pm:   

Dave,

I've gone to 4 bolt hubs. Don't ask why just because. So I need to make adapters or new hubs. My thought was to bypass the hub & make a 1 piece car like axle. Besides on my 252 about 3 of the axles were bent. A combination of flat tires, bad bearings & a messed up body. Also letting teens drive it (me way back) & others now didn't help. I also like to restore them as best as possible. So why not pull everyhting & make sure it's in good working order. Don't want to drive 5 hours to ride & have it give up the ghost.
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steve chunn (Schunn)

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Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:43 pm:   

Does anyone have a good pic that shows what the engine bay shroud for an attex chief looks like?

Where can you get one?
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david berger (Davidrrrd)

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Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:43 pm:   

HOPEFULLY DAVE YODER WILL GET A HOLD OF ONE AND BEGIN REPLICATING THEM FROM FIBERGLASS FOR THOUGHS WHO HAVENT A COVER, ALOT OF COVERS BECAME SEPERATED FROM MACHINES THAT WERE RACED IN THE 70'S BECAUS THEY NEEDED TO INSTALL REAL ROLL BARES AND COVER WERE IN THE WAY,
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Hayden McDowell (Haydenmc)

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Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:43 pm:   

Does anyone know what size tires an Attex 252 Colt had on it stock? Its those three lug jokers. I am wanting to convert to a four lug system so I can use aluminum 4 wheeler rims and have more tire options. Do I need 8" or 10" wheels? Give me a size description of a good retro size to go to on wheels and tires using Richards adapter plates. Thanks Hayden
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steve chunn
Junior Member
Username: Semper_fi

Post Number: 11
Registered: 03-2006
Posted From: 152.163.100.65

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Posted on Sunday, November 26, 2006 - 08:19 pm:   

Hello guys:

my attex 400 chief is giving me trouble separating the wheel flange/hubs from the 1" axle. The thru bolt has been removed. It would appear that someone has welded in the center hole of the wheel flange to permanently stick it to the end of the axle. Can anyone confirm if this is how attex fabricated the assembly?

thanks

steve
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Mike Cummings
Member
Username: Hydromike

Post Number: 39
Registered: 03-2005
Posted From: 141.149.254.227

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Posted on Tuesday, November 28, 2006 - 12:49 pm:   

Steve,

Sometimes Attex did weld the 3-bolt flange directly to the axle, and sometimes on later models the 3-bolt flange is part of a collar that slides over the 1" dia. axle. The collar and axle are then drilled to accept a bolt, holding the two together. I have a 1971 that the 3-bolt flange is welded directly to the 1" axle with no other support, but all of my other machines (1972 and later) use the collar and bolt setup. After 30 years of abuse, both of these setups are likely to fail at some time. It is likely that your machine has been repaired due to breakage, or had the axle welded directly to the flange to overcome excessive wear in the collar/flange/bolt setup. I've welded up a few of my machines this way to stop them from breaking, so I dont think it's uncommon. It's significantly more difficult to take the setup apart to replace axles, bearings, etc., but in my mind, the benefits outweigh the extra work you make for yourself. Since it's made out of metal, you can cut it apart and weld it back together if it's giving you a lot of grief.
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steve chunn
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Username: Semper_fi

Post Number: 12
Registered: 03-2006
Posted From: 64.12.116.199

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Posted on Wednesday, November 29, 2006 - 09:54 pm:   

Mike - thanks for the reply. I decided to abandon the hubs and building new flanges. I purchased 3" round x 1/2" thick 1018 steel plates from McMaste Carr. I will chuck these plates into my lathe and layout for the 3 hole rim pattern and then machine out a 1" hole in the center of the round plate. Weld the outer center plate to axle shaft. The old hub/flanges are not worth trying to save since the end is fully welded.

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