Argo chains

Route 6x6 Discussion Board: Shop Talk: Tech Tips and Q&A section: Argo chains
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Archive through February 20, 2001  10    
Archive through May 25, 2002  7    

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By mike martindale (Wetsu) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

argogeru,do you know if shoup sells the double roller rc 50 chain and if it would be cheaper for me to go through them and buy it in bulk or just get what chains i need from argo? i.e. front drivers and idlers

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By argoguru on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Mike,
I get all my double 50 and single 60 from shoup. It is cheaper in the long run if you buy bulk, buy american!! I tried a high end forgien chain and it was stretched amost completely out after 35 hrs or so. American is alot more expensive, but it will last for at least 200 hrs or more, and thats with me abusing it.. I would buy the 50 ft. coil of D50 and #60. it will be alot but will last a long time.

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Roger Smith on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Has anyone tried the Taiwan KMC chain. The supplier sells to John Deer and Honda dealers, says it's made with Japanese steel, while the junk chain comes from the Chinese mainland. I agree with Guru though, I want the least amout of stretching going on. Can you tell me what the high end foreign chain you tried was?

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By David Keeso (Argomag) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

IF you buy a large roll of chain, don't you have to cut it to fit? That would be a lot more work wouldn't it. WHen I replaced my two back chains in the ARGO, I fought with the things to get the ends together. I ended up jacking up the back end, and using the wheel nut bar they give you (in some cars) to turn the wheel and also the axle to try and get the ends to meet. That worked, but it took a lot of effort for a friend to hold it down while I tried to get the ends to meet. Then getting the master link through, the little figure 8 piece and then the locking clip, the entire thing took about 2.5 hours just to replace the chains from start to finish. It took about 45 minutes just to find the links in the old chain because of the massive build up of greese (about the same amount of greese that one would use in 15 years or so.

My point is, that isn't it a lot easier to just get the chain from a dealer, that way you know that it will be the right length, size etc.

By the way, does anybody know how much the special vise grip is that ODG sells to pull the ends together? Are they just one needle nose that is bent or is it a double nose for each side of the chain. TO simplify, the RC50 is like a double chain. ON the one set of vise grips, is their two needle nose pieces to pull the entire chain or just the one in the middle? SOrry if I confused the heck out of you.

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By argoguru on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Roger,
I cannot remeber the name of it, but it was made in taiwan and came in a blue box.

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By argoguru on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Roger,
I cannot remeber the name of it, but it was made in taiwan and came in a blue box.

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Ted on Unrecorded Date: Edit

The chain puller that I have looks more like a battery post puller.
It was about $35.00. Worth every penny. No ½ links, no help.

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Ted on Unrecorded Date: Edit

The chain puller that I have looks more like a battery post puller.
It was about $35.00. Worth every penny. No ½ links, no help.

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Wild Dog Machinery on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Hi David

If the chain you buy is the right pitch and there is the correct number of links in it, including the connecting link when fitted, the length should be correct regardless of the source.

Sometimes though, it can be a bugger of a job to get the ends together, as you have found. There needs only be a very slight change in the axle centre distance to make a marked difference in the amount of initial tension applied to the chains to join the ends.

TIP 1 Make sure the tooth roots and flanks on each sprocket are clean of anything that shouldn't be there, as this all adds up to make the total required length greater - built up debris at the tooth root has to be included in the overall required chain length, and if it is not removed prior to fitting new unstretched/worn chain, will effectively make the new chain 'shorter' than it needs to be. You would be surprised at how much difference a little hard grease and maybe rust makes.

The sketch shown in the Operator's Manual will be enough for you to make the tool you are asking about from a standard pair of 7R Vice grips. You can download it from ODG's website if you haven't got one.

TIP 2 You will need to use an angle grinder [what I think is also refered to as a sidewinder ? in the States] to make the undercuts, as the tool jaws are hardened and filing them won't work. You will also discover that narrowing the jaws will be needed, as will making them more parrot-beaked so they fit into the chain properly. It's one of those things that you will need to fiddle with to get it working spot on.

TIP 3 Note though, that the jaws are brazed on with these pliers, so don't get them red hot or they might unbraze and fall on the floor!

Alternatively your local Argo dealer should be able to supply you with a set already ground to suit for a reasonable fee.

In my opinion, having replaced a LOT of drive chain over the years, these modified Vice Grips are utterly indespensible when it comes time to do this job, which should only take minutes at best, and with this tool in action you are the master of the situation, not the chain.

Jim Deering
Wild Dog Machinery
Australia

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By bigkodiak on Unrecorded Date: Edit

David
Take a 7" pair of vise grips and grind down them down till they fit in between the chain sections.
As far as cutting chain and installing it, you can buy a 10' roll of American chain, a chain cutter, and 2 master links for less than the price of one rear chain for an Argo 6 wheeler.
The chain cutter pushes the pins free and takes 30 seconds or so to get the job done.
Russ`

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By mike martindale (Wetsu) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

has anybody ever tried using 2 single 50 chains instead of the double? and just use the double masterlink to keep it all together.locally i am running into trouble finding the double but i can get single all day long. now bear in mind this is only a last resort idea. i was just wanting to know if it would as well as the double 50?

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By David Keeso (Argomag) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Thanks for the responses. I guess 2 + hrs to replace the chains was very long compared to what it should have taken.

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By roadwolf on Unrecorded Date: Edit

roger, i have used KMC chain and i am very well pleased. the tiwanese, from what i have hear in the tooling industry have some pretty half decent steel. but once they get to the popularity level of RK, DID etc, expect to see a price hike!

argomag, the only special tool you need for connecting chains is a simple plastic zip tie. wrap it around the rollers of the two chain ends and tighten until the master link installs. and of course cut off the zip tie.

argogeru, great tip on adjustable chain pitch, as cheap as i am, i would definately pop for a new chain as opposed to clipping out links.


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