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flyvee

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Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:42 pm:   

i have what i think is a 70s model argo ..i was just wondering where i can look to find out for sure what the make and model is...also does any one know what kind of motor these things had.or what kind of briggs motor i can buy to replace the old one? any help would be aprecciated
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pete6x6

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Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:42 pm:   

Flyvee,

If you call Argo with the serial number and model number they should be able to tell you.
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Mike Koscinski (Rem721)

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Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:42 pm:   

I have a chance to buy an older Argo with a Kohler 2 cycle 440cc. It could be an early 70's model. It has welded sprockets.It starts hard when cold and needs a shot of spray to get going.It seems to start okay when the engine has warmed. The wireing, battery and two main chains are new. When stopped and until the engine idles down to a lower rpm, there is a grinding when it is shifted high to low.It may have the wrong belt on the clutch because it's marked Kawasaki. The orginal paint is pretty weathered and faded and it needs a little cosmetic repair where a windshield would attach. It has new Goodyear Rawhide Terra tires 21x11-8 tires on new wheels. It has machine shop made wheel adaptors to fit the 5 hole wheels. Other than that, it appears to be stock except for a flex pipe running between the engine and the cannister muffler. Can anyone offer any advice on this 6x6 to me and tell me if it's worth $1200.
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david berger (Davidrrrd)

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Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:42 pm:   

it shure is if it runs and drives,
it's a good find as 2-cycles have plenty of power and argo's need plenty of power,
power to through around and show off with!!
you know you cant bye that new! the new ones are only powerd by enemic 4 strokes, so get a power house for the thrills now while you have the chance as there HARD to come by,
david
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L. A. Philip Osborn (Roadwolf)

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Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:42 pm:   

listen koscinski, you made a mistake on not asking that cute girl to lunch a while back, don't make tha same mistake again!
seriously if you can get a 6x6 runnin fer under 1500$, ya can't really go that far wrong.
argo has been around for a while and there are tons of parts around.
honestly, were can you get dollar for dollar sumthing to match up to a aatv six wheeler?
remember real men drive aatv's.
you definately should have known!
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rem721

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Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:42 pm:   

I appreciate all of the response to my post both on and off the board. Thanks to all those that replied.
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Dobbin

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Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:42 pm:   

I need to know where to find parts to rebuild the brake mastercylinders for an early model Scrambler. I would greatly appreciate it.
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Samuel C Harbin Sr.

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Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:42 pm:   

Iam looking to purchase a older ARGO 6x6 or 8x8. I live in mid Michigan, and work at a ARGO dealership as a mechanic.It could be running or not running. Its for a ground up restoration.
Any help would be great.
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daveyoder

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Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:42 pm:   

does anybody have horizal briggs20 horse motor i am looking for one for a 1968 argo 6x6 if do please email a dave yoder hotmail.com for only
$ 120 if so thank everyone your friend dave y
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daveyoder

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Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:42 pm:   

does anybody have horizal briggs20 horse motor i am looking for one for a 1968 argo 6x6 if do please email a dave yoder hotmail.com for only
$ 120 if so thank everyone your friend dave y
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Terry Simpson

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Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:42 pm:   

I just bought a 1974 argo six wheeler. The trans is low on oil, what oil does it take?
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pete6x6

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Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:42 pm:   

Terry,

PeteC should know check out his webpage.
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80w gear lube

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Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:42 pm:   

80w gear lube
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David A. Zimmerman (Zimco)

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Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:42 pm:   

Can anyone help me??? I have an older ARGO 6X

I have no idea what year it is.

I am told the chaparrel engine is not original.

There is a number on the top of the transmission
#2965G

I need repair & parts manuals for this.
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argogeru

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Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:42 pm:   

David,
That is not the original engine. Contact your local dealer or call the factory with the serial number of the machine not the transmission. It should be on the firewall or the dash. they will be able to tell you the year and get you a manual.
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David A. Zimmerman (Zimco)

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Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:42 pm:   

I am told this is a 73-74 ARGO

I can't find any numbers on the body.

I am told the chaparrel engine is not original.

There is a number on the top of the transmission
#2965G

I need repair & parts manuals for this.

I will accept originals or copies of parts and shop manuals, also parts and parts vehicles.

Local dealers don't have manuals for older ARGOS.

email - zimco@rochester.rr.com
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Rob Coleman

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Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:42 pm:   

Can anyone help me?

I'm based in the U.K. and have acquired
an old Argo. The number on the chassis
is KB5501 and it has a 2 cylinder engine.

Apart from that, there are no other
identifying features! How do I establish
which model it is and obtain parts?

Also, any ideas of how easy it is to
obtain a service manual and parts?

Many thanks.
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David Keeso (Argomag)

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Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:42 pm:   

Send me a picture and I can tell you. djhkeeso@rogers.com is my e-mail. I bet it a magnum though
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roadwolf

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Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:42 pm:   

is it a 2 stroke or a 4 ?
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liflod (Liflod)

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Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:42 pm:   

Check the Argo web site. They have manuals available for download. Why hasn't RI thought about it?
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David A. Zimmerman (Zimco)

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Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:42 pm:   

2 Stroke engine
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David Keeso (Argomag)

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Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:42 pm:   

Go to the argo site. Look for the history section and their is a picture of an argo identical to the one in your profile. Do you have any other pics?
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roadwolf

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Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:42 pm:   

zimmerman, walsh argo site off the links, history - said argo's went 4 stroke after 75. dave keeso might be able to help you with the exact model. don't worry about parts. most 6x6 componets are all generic, any thing else you can weld, mill or file, juss ask david b tha 3rrrrddddddd.
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Gene Hacker

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Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:42 pm:   

I have a 1980 Argo 8x8 TB model...I know it has the Tucumseh 16hp motor. To pick the right manual for the Tucumseh motor I need to figure out what model motor this is. I looked all over the motor the only thing I found was a 16 stamped on the motor.
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David Keeso (Argomag)

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Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:42 pm:   

I have an old manual with the tecumseh engine in it. DO you have a picture of your machine and I'll confirm it.

ZIMCO, send me a picture of your argo and I should be able to tell you what model it was. The e-mail address in my profile is insanecrash@hotmail.com-- THAT IS THE WRONG ONE. I can't get rid of it but the real one is djhkeeso@rogers.com
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T. Martin

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Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:42 pm:   

I just purchased an Argo prolly 70ish. The Koehler Two stroke has been replaced with a 440cc Cuyhuna from an Ultralight or snowmobile. It runs like a screamin monkey.
The body is rough, does anyone know what a replacement shell would cost?
Thanks
Terry
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tractorman70

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Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:42 pm:   

Hey
I just came across a Sperry Rand Wedge 245 at a tractor swap meet yesterday. It looks like new the old guy I got it from had it stored for many years Can anyone tell me what its worth?

Thanks
Rick
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HELLONSIXWHEELS

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Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:42 pm:   

post some pictures so we can all see it.there are
not many wedges out there,if there are then they arent surfacing.i have heard that the production
numbers for them was very low,anyone have an idea
of how many?i would have to say value would really
depend on overall condition.if it truly looks new
it should be in the thousands i would assume.
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Arlie

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Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:42 pm:   

Tractorman70, does that Wedge have the jet pump option for water travel? The jet pump was an option that wasn't on alot of those. How about a roll bar? It was also an option I believe.
If you decide to sell, how about e-mailing me directly with a price and/or info? I posted a Sperry Wedge want-ad a few months ago, but no replies. Was that Wedge in running shape when it was stored away? Any idea when it was last running?
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Alan Burgess

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Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:42 pm:   

I have an 1983 argo 6 wheeler. It has a 16 hp
tecumseh {OH160}.It has quite a loud noise in it.
I would to a new engine for it , what would any body suggest that I use and what kind of upgrade would I have to do to make it work? Thanks for any help that I can get.
Alan Burgess,Quispamsis, NB, Can
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Michael Schiedel-Webb (Mswebb)

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Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:42 pm:   

I am considering the purchase of a '79 Argo and have a few questions...

1. Do the older vehicles support winches?

2. What is a good source in Toronto Canada area for parts/accessories?

3. Do the older vehicles work with the current track systems on the market? We need it for winter use mostly.

4. This vehicle has a 440cc, 28HP engine. I am assuming from info posted here that this is a 2-cycle engine. Does 2-cycle mean 2-stroke? Does this mean mixed fuel?

thanks all,
Michael Schiedel-Webb, argo newbie
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david berger (Davidrrrd)

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Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:42 pm:   

yup its a 2 stroke 440cc engines comonly put out 38hp
fule aint what it used to be, 2 strok oil ether for that matter,
seller should be able too fill in the blanks on best oil's and mix ect..ect..
most peopl agree that with enoph power an argo will work best, the new ones are cronicly under powered, you have a good find there.
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David Keeso (Argomag)

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Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:42 pm:   

Michael, yes they support winches- I think all did- I can't tell you for sure, but their is a dealer in etobicoke that could get parts- I have been there once. It is located in the back of a car dealership and has a secondary section in the back called Summerset Yamaha. They are on weston road I believe. My ARGO is somewhere around 89-91 and the tracks my dad had from his first argo, still are used on the machine today. I don't know if they changed their tracks yet, but they should work as long as they are not super tracks. I can't tell you about the engine, but I know that any hp over 20 will help you out a lot if you are running tracks. Tracks suck the hell out of the power and slow you down a lot- SUpertracks would be even worse. I don't know if this means anything, but the kawasaki engine they use in the Conquest had 600 odd cc and the one you are describing has 440 cc. I don't know if this means much but 600 cc in a 20 HP engine and a 28 Hp with 440 cc. I don't have the slightest clue what cc means but it might be something to consider.
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Michael Schiedel-Webb (Mswebb)

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Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:42 pm:   

I always thought that cc's were the cubic centimetres of displacement. It is a measurement of how large an engine is but does not give any true clues as to it's performance or power. Feel free to flame me if I'm mistaken.

Thanks for the feedback. I'm going to have a mechanic check the engine for soundness and if all goes well, I'll be an Argo owner.
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David Keeso (Argomag)

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Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:42 pm:   

Im not flaming you. I don't have the slighest clue as I said about what the cc is of an engine. I just know that a 28 hp engine will be a hell of a lot better than lets say an 18 hp engine that is used in the models today. With tracks, the ARGO moves a lot slower and doesn't have the same amount of power for other things. At full throttle, in deep snow, even just tapping the brake will kill all the power and then it takes a ton of time to get back to the speed you were at before. IF you are trying to turn the vehicle in snow, it takes almost full throttle just to move half way around. Unless you are on a flat road covered in hard packed snow or ice and you jam on the brake (this will throw you into an insane slide out that will allow you to to double turns) you have to almost release the brake, let it get some speed and then brake again. It can be frustrating if you are used to driving without tracks. Everything is slower, and in some cases, you don't have the traction you need. The advantage of running tracks (standard or super) is to keep you up in the snow. In deep snow, you still drive through it, but you are almost skidding along the surface. WHen you actually think about it, its hard to belive that the tracks actually pull you through the snow when the bottom of the vehicle is so flat that one would think it would just high center. In some cases, such as going up a steep hill, you can't always make it up the hill on the first try, you may have to run up and down a few times to pack the snow down a bit and get the snow that is in the middle (between the tracks) to pack down as well and still may require a running start to get up.

I'll add later, but more power is definatly better when you are using tracks. Make sure your charging system is up to snuff though of you will start to have other problems. I'll comment on this in another post.
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Michael Schiedel-Webb (Mswebb)

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Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:42 pm:   

Thanks again and please keep the posts coming. I'm a total newbie and can use all the info I can get. Can anyone tell me if my cc assumption is correct?
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Kevin Percy

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Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:42 pm:   

The "cc" of an engine is the displacement of the engine, some people use it to judge "how big" the engine is , others compare Horse Power. As previously mentioned displacement does not always give an indication of power ouput ie., HP. A smaller cc engine can develop as much or more HP than a larger cc engine, depending on how they are designed. Besides looking at HP you have also to look at where the engine develops that power, and if it suits your driving style. Usually (now correct me if I am wrong here anybody) a 2 stroke makes its power at higher RPM than a 4 stroke, so if you want to pull moose out of the bush every fall, a 20hp 2 -stroke that needs to rev near full throttle to make its power might not be as good for you as a 16 hp 4-stroke that makes its peak hp at half throttle.

BTW if my memory is correct my high school Auto Class defined displacement as "the difference in the volume of the cylinder(s) of an engine between when the piston is at bottom dead center, and top dead center" - or - if you put the piston at the bottom of its stroke and filled the cylinder with liquid, and then moved the piston to the top of its stroke, how much liquid would spill out, usually measured in Cubic Centimeters, Liters, or Cubic Inches.

Just my $0.02, differing opinions welcomed.

Kevin
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davidrrd

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Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:42 pm:   

i agree but this is not a 20 hp 2 stroke, it probly still makes over 16 hp at the lower speeds,
the 38 hp it likely makes at top end may or may notever come in handy but it's a big enoph powerplant too still have more juce than that 4 stroke even at the 4 stroke powerband range,
now if yah stuff a biger 4 stroke in there you would realy have something,
im shur of this cause i went over to all 440's years ago, 4 strokes havent impressed me much till just lately, tim schotanus(mudbuster) has a 23hp briggs with a rev kit in it and a by-passed govener too,
we think it's realy pushing about 35hp, that thing has all the ball's of a 4 stroke and reves like a 2 stroke, it's damm wild
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David Keeso (Argomag)

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Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:42 pm:   

In addition to my previous post above, if made a comment on the charging system with tracks. Personally I believe (I could be wrong)that when you are running tracks, the ARGO does not get to full throttle although you may have it wide opened. If you are running your winch, lights, or any other accessories, you are running your battery down. If you are using tracks, the engine is working as hard as it can (with the throttle opened) and because of the resistance of tracks, the engine does not sound like it is running properly. If it not running as fast as it usually would, in my opinion, it does not charge as fast, and could mean that you have to run longer to charge back up again. I could be very worng, and I would appreciate any imput on this.
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david berger (Davidrrrd)

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Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:42 pm:   

its not perfict but my old 2 stroke rule was aprox 11 cc's per hp
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Michael Schiedel-Webb (Mswebb)

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Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:42 pm:   

Well, I've done it. I bought a used Argo. It does not have the original engine but a somewhat newer Bombardier 2 stroke engine. 440cc, 28HP.

2 questions...

1. There is lots of smoke when I get it started. Is this indicative of anything particular? What can I do about it?

2. I have no way of knowing how many hours are on the engine as the Argo's original meter is not connected and may not function at all. Where would I get a new one so that I can monitor engine use for maintenance?

Thanks in advance. I'm sure I'll have lots more questions. I'm not only new to Argo's, I'm new to the whole engine maintenance/mechanical scene.

Michael
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David Keeso (Argomag)

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Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:42 pm:   

Almost any engine supplier or even an automotive store may have one. You can also order one from an ARGO dealer or at ODG.
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david berger (Davidrrrd)

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Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:42 pm:   

yah 2-strokes smoke like that, you can try difernt oils and diferent mixes till you like the smoke leavle but get used too killing mosquitos!
the manufacturers mix is way out of date, they don't make gass like they used too and 2-stroke oil ether for that matter!
you can get realy good oils now that will give you the best preformance from your 440 with mideum grade gas and a 45/1 or some @ 50/1 mix!
try not too use high test gas as it has too much deturgent in it for automotive fule injectors and will ruin a 2-stroke wich totaly relys on oil to stick to things for cooling and luberication too!
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Scott Lents (Boofniff)

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Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:42 pm:   

Hello all
well I fed it and it followed me home...thats the story I gave the wife and I'm sticking to it.
I cant figure out yet how to post a pic but I need info help. by my guess its a 71-74 argo,
motor is a kohler 440
spec#42465
serial# 602903(this of off the engine tag)
I cant find any other tags, might have been one on the tranny in days past but no more.
Its green if that helps
I have a pic if you email me I will send it to you.
so far for purchase I am going to hunt down a shop manual if such critters still exist.
Mechanically it all seems sound, cant get the flywheel off yet to check the stator,points,condensers but the rest of the electrical sys is a real mess, so if any body has a wiring diagram they could shoot my way, I would be one grateful reprobate.
boofniff@texas.net
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Dean

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Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:42 pm:   

I have a 1980 tb Argo 8 wheeler,can somebody tell me what size double row primary drive chain is,and what secondary chains were for this year ,the ones I got with it in a bucket,are unreadable,Mr.rust got em.Newer manual on line,shows single row to be RC-60,and double row to be RC50-20.My chains aren't that big,I think my single row drive chains are #50,and double row chains smaller than that,and how many links are required for primary,& secondary chains?Plus does anybody know a wholesaler that sells it by the roll,and carries primary double row chains,of course decent quality,and were these babies Standard,or metric on drivetrain parts?Haven't really tied into that part yet,just rewired engine compartment & 16ohv tecumseh,and got it running,now on to neglected drive train.Any help would be appreciated
P.S. Is factory manual for that year & service tape worth the $80?
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Dean

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Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:42 pm:   

Got a 1980 Argo Tb 8 Wheeler,asked about chains in my last post,forgot to ask about adjusters. Mines got little nylon sprockets on L's attached to sliding bracket,can I upgrade to newer style self adjusting pads without to much difficulty,or does somebody know a source where I can buy new ones like I have at a reasonable price?Must say I'm partial to self adjusting feature.Thanks for any help.
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David Keeso (Argomag)

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Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:42 pm:   

Dean, if you send me a picture, I could likely tell you, but I don't remember off hand what that model looked like. Most used the rc50 chain for the main drives, new ones are using a smaller chain but I don't know why. I think the double are better, but thats just my opinion. What are the adjusters like on yours. Do they have a spring holding two pieced on the chain and pinching them together? They should be replacable to a new system, but the adjusters havn't changed much from what I have been told but don't quote me on that. Send me a pic or e-mail at djhkeeso@rogers.com and put the subject as ARGO- I have been getting a lot of spam and ARGO will jump out and not get deleted.
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Pete Nicolazzi

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Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:42 pm:   

Dean, saw your post re: chains. We have an '86 Argo, 8x8 IC. We found (the hard way) the right chains at the local farm implement dealer. (WE took our broken cahin in with us) By the foot, same stuff, cheaper than an Argo dealer
just an FYI for you
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Ron Campbell (Rambo12_99)

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Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:42 pm:   

Hi
Have a problem
I hit a rock and broke the front flange on my
90 magnum. The front right wheel & axle came off.
Question?? Is there only 2 set screws holding the
axle on?? How do I change the flange & replace the axle?
PS I need the book/mechanics for dummies.
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david berger (Davidrrrd)

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Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:42 pm:   

RON CAMBLE, ODG HAS VIDEO TAPES FOR REPAIR GUIDS,
I THINK IF YOU CONTACT YOUR DEALER YOU MIGHT BE ABLE TO GET ONE,ALSO ASK FOR A PARTS LIST
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ACR

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Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:42 pm:   

more on argo chains,Ihave a 1981 argo single speed trans it also has rollpins for sprockets/axles the drive chain is #50 double roller. My neighbour's argo is quite a bit newer and has two sp. trans. drive chains are single roller. Am I turning twice as much chain as I need to?That little tecumseh needs all the help it can get. Iwas woundering if anyone had converted one of these older machines? Will less friction be out weighted in broken drive chaines?
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Attex Bob

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Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:42 pm:   

ACR I will give you my 2 cents on this subject. People will disagree with me on this I'm sure!!!!

I have an 82 8X8 with a two speed and single row #50 chain. I have never broke a chain on it. Some people complain about how weak a single row #50 chain is. Here is what I have to say to those people.

I had a Suzuki 1100 with about 110 HP and it had a #50 chain on it. The thing weighed about 900 lbs with me on it. I would wind the thing up and dump the clutch at about 4K. The thing would wheelee up so almost 110 HP was being used and transfered through the chain. I never broke that chain either.

I think my Suzuki was putting out a tad more HP than your Tecumseh!!!! So to make a long story short. A single #50 would be fine as long as it is "GOOD CHAIN". Someone must have converted it to a double roller in the past because the only time I have seen that was on a new machine.

You might just trade your neighbor!!!!!!! Or put a bigger engine in it to max out your double roller!!!!

All in all I don't think you would gain much by going to a single roller. But I know what you mean about the power of the tecumseh. They are not exactly the big blocks of the AATV world!!!!
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Dan C

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Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:42 pm:   

Hi Guys,Does any one know of a place in B.C.Canada that sells double 50 chain
I just got a price of $9.00 per ft ,at that price I think it will cost me $500.00 to change out my chains and they need to be done in a big way
Thanks Dan
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David Keeso (Argomag)

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Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:42 pm:   

Dan, The best way to get those chains is to just bite the bullett and buy them directly from ODG. They are cheeper in other places but are very uncommonly used. the single rc 50 is easy to get but I spent about 4 hours yesterday trying to just find a place that could order me RC double 50. What ARGO do you have? Its likely an older one though right? I feel your pain with the $$ side of it. I have to do mine despritly and my only option now is to swap all the chains. I killed my last one this week at the cottage and I can barely keep the ARGO running in a straight line. Left brake is now gone from steering corrections. Let me know if you find anything. Some hardware stores can actually order the chains but I don't know if its easy or not. YOu may try True value, Home Hardware, Ace Hardware or one of those co-op farm equipment and supply places- Don't know what you have in B.C. but in Ontario, its very hard to get unless you just get it from ODG
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Larry Houghton

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Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:42 pm:   

Dan: Did you try a bearing supply store? If you have one reasonably close they will have or be able to get it for you.One other place is a farm eq.dealership but could be expensive.I usualy just go to my bearing supply shop and get it. Also you could try Princess Auto. Just check where the chain is made.
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DanC

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Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:42 pm:   

Thanks guys I found a Lordco auto parts store that had two 10'sections in stalk and they can get more any time and it was $7.25 per ft and it's not made in China.
The Argo dealer near me wanted about $85.00 per chain for the 4 long ones so this was a great deal
My argo is an 83 and I just did a complete rebuild on it,thats why I was trying to get the best deal on the chains I could,wife says I spent way to much money on it,but how can you put a price on fun? lol lol
Dan
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markcooper

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Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:42 pm:   

Everyone who has Argo operation experience. I just purchased a 1993 Argo, verified it with Argo as a 1993. It has a 16hp Vangaurd engine which I just sent to Briggs&Stratton service because I thought it had a blown head gasket, I was wrong. It had a bent valve stem. So I had them replace it, do a normal service job, $147 well spent. While I had the time and the opportunity, I torn down to the frame this Argo. Yep, at this moment, the transmission is on my garage floor, seperated from the frame mount with holds the transmission, the engine and the braking/steering system. I took all the chains off, cleaning them, soaking them and then will reaply some chain lube for 24 hours. I will order from Argo the braking/steering system kit.

My question is about my transmission, when I first got it, while it was running, as I would change into the different gears, a little grinding sound would occur. Since, I have become more and more educated with the adjustment procedure(s) which Argo publish, I recognized that the idlers were way out of adjustment, like 9 mm in stead of 3mm. This item would mean that the angle for the transmission was too high, tilted and could have contributed to improper drive tension between the drive Cam and the Power Cam. If the transmission is not leaking, what other signs could be inspected or created to determine if internal damage exist?
2) The previous owner obviously had the chain in standing water, the chains show surface rust. I have removed all chains, sprayed a penatrating lubricate and cleaner. After wire brushing them I plan on using a 24 hours chain specific lubricate, is that as good as I can do beside purchasing all new chains?
3) I found that one side of each set of brake pads were badly worn, Richard Clark, of this website has described that most Argo users do not adjust the braking/steering system correctly and this will cause the brake pads, the steering and the braking to just get worse over time. I feel if this is the fact then Argo must share some of the responsibility for not providing better owner training in the maintaining, the adjustments and the long term owner's responsibility.
So far I have not heard, seen or witnessed anyone who can tell me that they have been instructed by Argo in anything.
Argo the company, just assumes for everyone to be master mechanics, to just inherit this nature ability to acquire the skills to maintain our Argo. I personally want to have Argo address this issue and make nation wide, close to owner's major cities, training for the major maintenance and adjustments which are important to keeping an Argo in good working order.
While, I know, that many owner's reserve the right to just use and abuse their Argo as toy, do not want to maintain them and just want to run them into the ground, for those of you, that is your right! I wish all of you that freedom.
As for me I prefer to be the type of owner which knows ultimately this is a mechanical machine, which "Requires" "Preventative Maintenance" scheduled and recorded.
I hope those of you who wear your machines out, tear them down to the point that they do not run, can not be sold running will give me a call, so I can purchase them for $1500-$2000. Argo's make good restoration projects for those of us who are willing to get dirty, turn many tools and take the necessary steps to bring them back from "Abuse!"
I would like to start (NAOA) National Argo Owner's ASSociation, with the power of unity, we can get more attention from Argo as a company!
Please feel free to contact me at
marksman954@aol.com or write to me at
Mark G Cooper
1712 E Francisco Drive
Phoenix, AZ 85042 or call me
602-323-0777
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Eddie Beddingfield

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Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:42 pm:   

Mark, I have a completely restored Argo SS for only 2000.00 ,want to buy it?? Eddie. P.S.the brakes have been already set to the Argo 670 manual,that is still available, they also have service tapes that are very good also.
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Jon Hoath

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Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:42 pm:   

Hey mark,
Odg sells maintenence manuals and videos for those who chose to do the work themselves. You can find the closest dealer to you by going to www.argoatv.com. This is how they show owners how to do the work themselves.
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David Keeso (Argomag)

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Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:42 pm:   

Mark, the dealers can show you how to do the work most the time. When mine goes in for work im going to stay there and learn how to do everything so I don't have to go through the dealer. The dealer closest to me up north is only 15 minutes away and is a friend so that shouldn't be a problem. I think AROG started making service or maintenece videos that the dealers should be able to get and if not, order from ODG directly, they also sell engine service manuals and videos last I heard. Hopefully this helps some.
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Justin

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Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:42 pm:   

I recently bought an 82 argo and I've been having trouble with the clutch. It is a 16 Hp tecumseh motor with a 1 inch bore and quater inch keyway. Was wondering if anyone could help me find a replacement either new or used. Or will by complete motor and clutch, if necessary for a newer model.
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Masteratver

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Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:42 pm:   

Justin

Call Richard Clark 812-944-1643 he has those clutchs
for your agro, where do you live, you may want to go on
some of our rides

Sam Preston
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Mark Cooper

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Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:42 pm:   

For those faithful readers which read my lengthy email on March 26. Today, March 31, I finished the rebuild. I drove the Argo after all my hard work and the parts which I ordered through Yuba City, Ca, an Argo dealership. Let me say up front, that the dealership, charge me full price for a Brake Kit which was missing parts and those parts were important. I know now everything about the Argo have torn down to the frame. I rebuilt everything, I installed the brakes three times and it is good I did. By doing so I learned everything about them. Since an Argo steers and brakes with the same mechanism, the parts missing from the Argo Brake kit were exactly those parts related to the Argo brake system which had previously worn out. I have had to make due, but for those of you which know the Argo, there is essentially two adjustments for the brake pads moving in and out via the operator using the levers. There is the course adjustments which consists of the forward tension which is applied from the lever being pulled back by the operator and the cam element twisting over two ball bearings which in turns flexes the brake pads closer to the Brake disc. Then there is the fine adjustment which is done just next to the lever, by a screw being tighten to lessen the movement of the lever in relationship to making the clamping of the pads take place against the brake disc. These fine adjustment screw, bolts and linkage is what the Argo dealer in Yuma City, Ca shorted me. Those same elements are worn out on my unit. The dealer which incidently told me that he would not have paid more than $1400 for the unit I paid $2700, is the same dealer which shorted my parts from my paid in full brake kit. This dealer's name is Tom, his idea is that knowing the Argo, from the mechanical side, how to fix, how to keep them running and how to instruct the owners, is not a priority. In fact, his quote to me was "The best selling dealership has less than four hours driving an Argo! You dont need to know an Argo to sell them!"
Well, where I come from people are alot smarter than that. They want to know that the person selling them the equipment is an expert, knows the equipment and can fix at a minimum 85% of all problems. I can now but the jury is still out as to Argo, the product and the quality long term.
So far the unit is holding up after ten years, who ever had this Argo, treated it as a toy and did little maintenance.
I will tomorrow find out on my land, 120 acres of Arizona land, if this Argo is great or just So So.
One last item, I have what would be considered Rawhide tires. I was told that these tire would cause problems. I inflated them all the same today and from the initial exercise they worked well. I need tires to perform in and on rock. The Run A Muck tires look to wimpy. I have little water if any, I need tough tires and good strong tread. I will give more information tomorrow night after a day at the Arizona off road. If the Argo can be adapted for Arizona then Argo can conquer an new territory. We will see!
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Mark G Cooper

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Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:42 pm:   

The continuing saga of an Argo's path to Arizona. Recently, I was told that the tires on my Argo were in the wrong direction, while the tread was rotating forward. The manufacture's arrow indicated this as well. Well, lucky for me I had experienced them climbing rocks prior to correcting the tread rotation. I was told that correcting the rotation would improve the climbing ability. WRONG! I found just the opposite, the Argo, climbed three to four better with the tread direction opposite from what the manufacturer's arrow would indicate. Looking at the Bigfoot Rawhide tread and the direction it would travel while under operation in a forward direction, my treads look now the same.
As for the Vanguard brakes, I have found that it is far better to make them sensitive to clamping and steering then to make them not be as close to the brake disc. I also have found that the use of a spring, then a washer, then the steering pin plate, then another washer greatly enhances the linkage's ability to actuate the braking/steering mechanical operation.
I tried the tracks on my mountain, against the rocks, boulders and soft ground. Well, they held up to the abuse of rocks but to be effective for traction, I am preparing a modification for every other track, using old tread from steel belted tires to both enhance traction and protect the hard plastic track. The hard plastic track needs help, alot of help digging into the surface when climbing the hill. Coming down, we were sliding alot and were not able to gain alot of control.
I think that hard tough tires will do better and I have modified the walking path I built by hand, hard work and lots of muscle, to be wide enough for the Argo.
As for the incline fuel supply problem, Argo has told me that the vacuum pump fuel pump the B&S motor has can not deal with the gavity of the incline very well. The inherit slow fuel supply provided by the vacuum pump is just a B&S problem which in the new Avenger Argo, the problem has been solved by an excellerator type fuel pump.
The one outstanding problem which will need to be improved on is the way the throttle is used.
Due to it, the throttle, being a function of twisting the right hand while using the right lever for braking/steering, I think I will install a thumb throttle contol so that twisting while pulling back to brake or steering is not a continual problem.
Well, as usual, I have written a novel but all in all the Argo's evolution for me to use it is still changing. One last thing, I am 6'6" so in order to make all the leg room I could, I have used a pipe bender to bend the back rest back.
Would anyone know where I can purchase just the windshield aluminum extrusion, on one side my previous owner damaged it pretty bad, usable but still I would like to put it right if possible!
Mark Cooper, Phoenix, Az
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Waibel

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Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:42 pm:   

Am in need of a cam for my Tecumseh model OH160 170089A engine. Any suggestions? Portland, Oregon
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Ted Barrington (205.251.185.107)

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Posted on Wednesday, January 12, 2005 - 09:35 pm:   

I am thinking about buying an 83 8x8 argo with a
tecumseh engine for 1000 bucks.What do you think?
What do I look for?
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David Keeso (Argomag) (170.224.224.153)

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Posted on Thursday, January 13, 2005 - 12:56 pm:   

one that old, look especially at engine condition, hours put on it, service history etc. also, look at chains, bearings, brakes, etc. Make sure all wiring is adequate, no worn out wires etc.
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ACR (208.181.162.93)

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Posted on Friday, January 14, 2005 - 12:08 am:   

Waibel:tecumseh engine parts available from Precise Engine Repairs www.perr.com Or151 roberts rd. Yakima WA 98908 They seem to have agood deal of stuff I will be purchasing a repair manual and parts soon hope this helps.
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Chris Holmes (Unregistered Guest)
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Posted on Saturday, March 26, 2005 - 08:27 pm:   

I just found the site.I've got an 04 conquest.Noticed people looking for chain,Renolds Chain out of Brantford Ontario might help.Any of you in this area.I'm looking for an older 6x6 as well.Also any tips to get some more grunt out of this Kawi 620.
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Larr Engelhart (Unregistered Guest)
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Posted on Monday, May 09, 2005 - 10:54 pm:   

I have a 1974 argo and want to get the standard tracks for it. Apparantly 13 inches wide, however it appears that there isn't much clearance around the front tire on each side. Owners manual shows tracks on back two wheels, I was told the standard tracks would fit all six wheel argos. I didn't want to have to go with spacers and by supertracks, etc, Any ideas as if they would work, or are there any owners of older argos that have run across this situation. Thanks. ?
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Robbo (Unregistered Guest)
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Posted on Wednesday, June 08, 2005 - 10:56 pm:   

I have a 1978 8-wheel argo. The body has faded and has spider-web cracks through it. I understand that it is made from polyethylene. The body was previously painted but the paint never adhered well and easily came off when the machine was power washed. Does anyone have any recommendations on how I can restore the body, that is with-out having to replace it?
Your help is appreciated.
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Dean
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Posted on Saturday, October 29, 2005 - 02:17 am:   

got a 1980 argo 8wheeler,tb3061,it came with runamuks 20x11x8's.Well goodyear doesn't make that size anymore.Was wondering if anybody knows if carlisle chevron 21x11x8's will work,or not.Don't want to get them home,and find they hit each other when mounted on Argo.Carlisle recommends 9inch rim,from what I've read in parts manual Argo rims are 7inch,If anybody has run into this before let me know.
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Jerry R. Nuss
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Posted on Saturday, October 29, 2005 - 01:10 pm:   

I run the 22x10x8 goodyear runamucks on an older Argo and they fit fine, they are the largest tire I can fit with space between them. The Carlisle Chevron 21x11x8 will fit great and are a good choice at half the price of the runamucks. I should have bought new Carlisle chevrons instead of the used runamucks that required tubes.
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Dean
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Posted on Saturday, November 12, 2005 - 11:02 pm:   

Thanks Jerry,just bought 8 new tires
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Dean
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Posted on Saturday, November 12, 2005 - 11:57 pm:   

Got my Carlisles,now does anybody have 4 of the old style argo chain tensioners with plate,L shaped sprocket holder,and nylon sprockets,or know where I can find little nylon sprockets that ride on chain,and set tension.I can fabricate the rest.ODG/Argo dealer discontinued item.Has anybody upgraded to new style spring loaded self adjusters?and how much of a pain is that?Do you have to remove body to get to outside frame rail? Thanks for any help.
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Dave Keeso
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Posted on Sunday, November 13, 2005 - 02:43 am:   

Hey Jerry, those carlisles you were mentioning, how do they run with tracks on, (standard tracks) do they run properly or is it tight or slack etc.
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Jerry R. Nuss
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Posted on Sunday, November 13, 2005 - 09:32 am:   

I don't know anything about tracks so I couldn't tell you what tires work best. I imaginge the Carlisle chevrons would work but that is just looking at them compared to other tires that go with tracks. Someone with experience with tracks may be able to post and give you advice. I might try and make a set of tracks one day. There is a lot of old surplus coal mine conveyor belt around where I live that looks like it would work well.
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Bob Shelver (Unregistered Guest)
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Posted on Saturday, January 14, 2006 - 04:59 pm:   

New user just browsing and was reading posts on different subjects and noticed David commenting on the under powered ARGO with snow tracks. I Am an ARGO distributor in Wyoming and tune and set these machines to run @ 6 to 10 thousand feet. At these altitudes I am working with less HP then the sea leavel to 5 thousand feet people. The way I set them up for example 6x6 Bigfoot, super track Mom Dad 2 kids, sled 5 ft of snow no problem move right along. The ARGO right out of the box needs some clutching to perform with the snow track and the correct transmission. We raced snow machines for years and did the same things to them. At lower altitudes you should not have a power problem with a little tuning.
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Rogersmith
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Posted on Saturday, January 14, 2006 - 06:06 pm:   

Hi Bob, and Welcome to the board.

Are you doing something besides setting the driven clutch spring to the #1 hole and using a GU trans, and a high altitude jet? I have a '98 response.. havn't worked on anything newer.

Where in Wyoming are you? I think we need an organized ride in the Rockies. The Holy Cross trail in Colorado keeps calling my name. Too rough for a stock 4WD. Maybe we can get Fred, your friendly max dealer in Montana to come out and play. I'm in Oklahoma and usually visit Colo in the Fall without the argo. Have super tracks that have spent nearly all their life rolled up in a spare bedroom.
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Bob Shelver (Unregistered Guest)
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Posted on Sunday, January 15, 2006 - 11:53 am:   

The engines RPM is controlled both by the driven and the drive clutch, however the drive clutch is the big player. The driven clutch controls your shift pattern but the drive clutch controls your load on the engines ability to build RPM and bottom line the engine must be able to run at 34 to 37 hundred RPM all the time or you don't get what the engine is suppose to put out 18HP and 29 FT Lb torque. The Response is under powered at higher elevations and especially with snow tracks. This is not a doom and gloom I have a search and rescue that has Response with Super tracks full cab radio and rescue equipment on board and the do fairly well in the 6 to 8 thousand ft range. We have discovered that the #1 position is not as necessary as first thought, most of the ones we do now are in the #2, the "G" is a must in the Response. What we do to the driven clutch I would not recommend the average Joe take this on as a weekend project. The clutch is a balanced unit and must be modified carefully or you can damage your engine. If you get with me off line at docurly@coffey.com I can see what you need and go from there
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Brian in FABULOUS Utah
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Posted on Sunday, January 15, 2006 - 06:03 pm:   

Bob, sounds like your that man I need to chat with... I have a '03 Conquestf (20 HP Kawasaki)that I run with the Supertracks. It does OK but will get bogged down when going up hills in the powder. I often have quite lengthy runs up hill and with steering corrections robbing the power it's often near stalling. Any advice and help would be appreciated.
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Bob Shelver
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Posted on Monday, January 16, 2006 - 10:02 am:   

Brian It is all in the clutch system. It is not something that everyone can do on there own. It is part of my High Altitude set up. Most of the dealers have not had to deal with altitude and don't do any set up like this. It also is done for extreme load conditions when you need extra power. Get with me off line and I can see if we can help you out. docurly@coffey.com or 307-358-9394 7:30AM to 5:30 PM MST
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Brian in FABULOUS Utah
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Posted on Tuesday, January 17, 2006 - 01:41 am:   

Bob, I'll be doing that.......... Thanks
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Rick Simonton (Unregistered Guest)
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Posted on Saturday, July 15, 2006 - 01:34 pm:   

Just bought '78 ARGO 8x8. Its my first AATV so I'm new to this. My qusetion is...Is it correct this ARGO does not have a PARKING BRAKE. Is there an aftermarket kit. If not what do I do when I need to stop and get out on a steep incline?

Thanks
Rick
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Joshua McCastle
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Posted on Monday, July 17, 2006 - 04:01 pm:   

Why would you need to get out on an incline? Turn it sideways, or make yourself a parking brake. Does it have a 440cc snowmobile engine? I have a 74 that originally came with a 400cc, but I put a 635cc Rotax snowmobile engine in it. Got any pics of yours?
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Rick Simonton
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Posted on Wednesday, July 19, 2006 - 12:43 pm:   

Thanks for the interest Josh. Seeing as it is 28 years old, I expect it to unexpectedly quit every now and then. I bought this buggy to hall hay up a VERY steep hill where we keep horses on the other side. Its so steep that I'm concerned it might roll over if I got sideways. It climbs very well even with 3 bales in the back, ( I gave the back end a sort-of pick-up bed). I think I can rig something of a brake if there is not one available.

The engine is a Tecumseh 16hp, runs great. The former owner rebuilt all the drive mechanisms, new chains, sprockets, etc. New seats, and a wild flame dash board cut from diamond plate. He also did an amazing job on a roll cage that goes completely thru-out the inside of the body and frame. It also came with a hitch, an outboard motor (of dubious condition) and TWO sets of tracks, which I'd like to sell. Not much snow or swamps here in Los Angeles.

On the downside, it was missing the clutch, belt and battery. It also had no spark, so I got it for a really good price. I was lucky as the lack of spark was simply from a loose wire.

I'm sure your buggy is faster and a lot more fun, but my requirement is more utilitarian. Slow but steady is good for me. Here are two picks, before I added the cargo bed.

RickFuture Haywagon on first test run. What goes up...
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Joshua McCastle
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Username: Mccastlej

Post Number: 12
Registered: 06-2006
Posted From: 205.181.102.85

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Posted on Wednesday, July 19, 2006 - 04:30 pm:   

If you really wanted to you could mount a brake disk on the left side of the torque convertor. The only problem with that would be that it wouldn't work when you were not in gear. You could make a device that holds both of your sticks back and applies both of your brakes. Looks like your kids are having fun in the back! I'd like some pics of how your roll bar is mounted if that's possible? I hope you have as much fun with your Argo as I do mine!
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Rogersmith
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Username: Rogersmith

Post Number: 117
Registered: 01-2005
Posted From: 70.234.129.111

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Posted on Thursday, July 20, 2006 - 12:08 pm:   

I'm not familiar with the '78 models, someone should know about a parking brake on them, it has to have some form of brake. The newer models have small levers between the two sticks that hold the main brakes in the applied position. If you don't have anything like that, maybe a block of wood between the sticks and dash..
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Ken Schroeder
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Username: Kenthemechanic

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Registered: 12-2006
Posted From: 208.114.148.151

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Posted on Friday, December 22, 2006 - 02:20 pm:   

hi where can i find a wireing diagram for a 74 to 84 argo 16hp tecumceh
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Ken Schroeder
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Username: Kenthemechanic

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Posted on Friday, December 22, 2006 - 02:40 pm:   

hi i purchased a argo was told it was a 90 on the tail lightis 89 the shop told me that they did not make axles with sprockets with roll pins, the motor is 16hp tecumceh. does anyone know what year it is.
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Skip Saul
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Username: Giantdog

Post Number: 7
Registered: 10-2006
Posted From: 67.142.130.18

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Posted on Saturday, December 23, 2006 - 11:34 am:   

call an argo dealer and give them your seral # thay will tell you every thing you want to know about it
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Dean Edwards
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Username: Dean

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Posted on Saturday, January 27, 2007 - 10:22 pm:   

In reguards to parking brake on argo,I've got an 1980,and it has a little L braccket at the base of the left steering stick.You pull back stick,and just flip L bracket over to hold stick in braking position.
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Dean Edwards
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Username: Dean

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Posted on Saturday, January 27, 2007 - 11:09 pm:   

does anybody have this type of adjusters,that their willing to sell,for a 1980 argo 8x8,or I'd settle for nylon sprockets.ODG discontinued them.
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Eddie L. Beddingfield
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Username: Argo2003

Post Number: 42
Registered: 08-2006
Posted From: 64.12.116.199

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Posted on Sunday, January 28, 2007 - 09:32 am:   

Dean,You are probably going to be out of luck finding these in any better shape than yours.What I did was made a nylon roller to replace the gear.I put a fender washer on the inside and outside to keep the chain riding on the roller ,then used a rod clamp on the end to keep everything on the shaft.
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Dean Edwards
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Posted on Sunday, January 28, 2007 - 11:18 pm:   

Pretty good idea,Eddie,I'm missing 2 of them completely.So gonna fabricate new adjuster brackets if need be,just thought I'd post pic in hopes somebody had argo they was parting out,save me a little work.Kinda annoying argo would completely discontinue a perishable item like a nylon sprocket.Thanks for the idea.
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Damen T.Hill
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Posted From: 72.160.116.225

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Posted on Saturday, March 17, 2007 - 03:02 pm:   

Hello all,
I'm glad to be back to 6x6's again, And very glad to be back on route 6x6...

If anyone out there needs diagrams or repair information and overhual instructions please let me know as I would be more than happy to scan and email you it. As I have a 1970's argo factory repair manual. It has exploded diagrams of chassis and trannys. and model info
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Sean McConnell
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Username: Bookm

Post Number: 42
Registered: 09-2005
Posted From: 69.159.216.86

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Posted on Tuesday, March 20, 2007 - 01:04 pm:   

Hey Damen,

I send out a PDF vesion of my old shop manual for the Roughrider shown in the pics. My '76 Argo shown alongside didn't come with a manual though, so I have been keeping my eyes peeled for just such an opportunity. I have Adobe Acrobat and could compile your individual scans into one nice PDF Manual.

Though I send out the "Roughy" manual for free, I know some try to make a few bucks (concidering it does take some time to scan the manuals) so I don't mind paying a bit for your stuff.

I have my Argo broken completely down (ready for total rebuild) and I know your manual would help me quite a bit.

Thanks,
Sean
76argo
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Josh
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Username: Mccastlej

Post Number: 26
Registered: 12-2006
Posted From: 205.181.102.85

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Posted on Saturday, March 24, 2007 - 04:36 pm:   

I'd be extremely happy if you'd send me a copy to mccastlej@yahoo.com
I could use it now and then as I'm sure my 1974 did not change much since 1970.

Thanks in advance!
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robinson ,christopher
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Username: Crdrob

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Registered: 06-2007
Posted From: 207.200.116.199

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Posted on Friday, June 29, 2007 - 04:07 pm:   

you guys all like argo but i need info on jol rockwell motor it is low on compreshion will not start is ti worth rebuilding
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kevin blackburn
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Posted on Wednesday, August 29, 2007 - 07:50 am:   

just got my first argo 3 mo ago..i think its a 70 it has a 399 kohler, ive been restoring it but was told by an argo dealer im throwing good money to bad, i just enjoy working on it although it can be challenging, im wondering if i can slimg the older balloon tires
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Richard Clark
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Username: Route6x6

Post Number: 188
Registered: 02-1997

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Posted on Wednesday, August 29, 2007 - 08:04 am:   

Kevin

Good to have you in the sport, Welcome!

Older ARGO ATVS were great machines somewhat limited by the old school Kohler engine. However; it can be made to work well and it will be FAST. Many dealers are just trying to sell you a new machine.

We have many parts for these Argos, many members of this board have these units, you are welcome to ask questions and we will try to help

As far as sealer in tires, it will work OK as long as the tires themselves are in good condition, however if the tires are junk, get new ones. Does your tire look somewhat like the one in the photo below?

Thanks
Richard Clark
ROUTE6x6


See my ATV parts website (listed below) for more ATV parts.
I have the world's largest supply of new, used and reproduction
AATV parts. We have most parts for most machines. Please call
on phone for details.

Terms:
We accept Visa. Mastercard and Discover Credit Cards, along with Money Orders
For your protection we only accept credit cards by telephone authorization.


--
Thanks,
Richard Clark
_________________________________________________
ROUTE6x6
4846 Quarry Rd
New Albany IN 47150
812-944-1643 8am- 6pm Eastern Time Monday-Friday only

Please NOTE EXTENDED HOURS

PLEASE NOTE: THE ABOVE ADDRESS IS FOR MAIL and SHIPPING USE ONLY,
I keep no machines or parts at the above address. Also there
are no business hours at the above address.

Visit my ATV parts website at:
http://members.aye.net/~rclark/
Visit my ROUTE6x6 website at: http://www.route6x6.com/


Tire
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kevin blackburn
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Registered: 08-2007

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Posted on Wednesday, August 29, 2007 - 09:21 pm:   

Richard, thank you for the prices...order coming soon, my tires are the 3 hole pattern, i took the argo for its maiden ride today.WoW what adrenaline that thing flys, it lasted about 20 min before the tillitson carb started leaking betweein one of the plates and she stalled,but she really was impressive,i think id be more happy with a 4 stroke but for now till the ole wallet says 2 stroke it is, thanks for the welcome aboard you all seem like great folks
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Scott Schultz
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Username: Stumpbuster

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Registered: 10-2007

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Posted on Tuesday, October 02, 2007 - 09:30 pm:   

You guys have been recommended by several people for a real honest answer to my question. I have what you could call a barnfind. My father-in-law passed and we found an old Amphicat in his shed. All it needed was a new carb and 2 tires. I spoke to a former AC dealer and he told me this one was rare. It is a 72 model 0126 serial # 1147. My kids love their "stumpbuster" and I do not want to part with it but I want to know what I have. Can anyone give me any info or where I can find info on this? Thank you.
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Dave Evans
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Username: Dozer

Post Number: 61
Registered: 01-2001

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Posted on Thursday, October 04, 2007 - 09:11 pm:   

Scott Again Richard owner of this site, can help you with parts 812-944-1643 Dave Evans
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John A Hill
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Username: Trimtab

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Registered: 10-2007

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Posted on Tuesday, October 09, 2007 - 09:18 pm:   

Hi Guys
now that I have the chains out of this older model argo I find that I have a couple of berring issues in the back end. I have the pins out and the collers loose but the axel does not want to move in the berring. Any body out there with any fancy techneques
John

?right rear sprocket and axel
John
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Jerry Nuss - Illinois MAX dealer
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Post Number: 565
Registered: 02-2005

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Posted on Wednesday, October 10, 2007 - 09:12 am:   

Soak with PB Blaster or Kroil, then use a socket the same size as the axle, Hit the socket with a 2 pound hammer.
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John A Hill
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Posted on Wednesday, October 10, 2007 - 04:52 pm:   

Violence. I love it. the thing does come from an era when the guy with the bigest hammer wins
Thanks
John
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robert longfellow
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Username: Maxinout

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Registered: 09-2007

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Posted on Thursday, October 11, 2007 - 04:07 pm:   

Now the question is. Who has the bigger hammer?
Anyway, when you reassemble remember to use anti-seize, so you can get it apart next time
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John A Hill
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Posted on Monday, October 15, 2007 - 07:30 pm:   

Yess well I have the biggest hammer. I had to cut the inner race with a torch. I have a bearing no for anyone else into this chore. The NSK no is AEL206-104D1W3 x AS3S 604 The were $18 cdn each. canít imagine what argo would be for their PN 101 29. The Jack shaft is according to Richard about $325 each now. Makes chain and lub look pretty cheep eh.
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Lawrence Goertzen
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Username: Lawdude

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Registered: 11-2007

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Posted on Monday, November 12, 2007 - 08:15 am:   

Hi new to the world of argo's. Always wanted one and now I got two. One is a 1976 and other a 1977. I plan on restoring 1 forsure, maybe two. So I was wondering if anyone has a pdf manual that they might send me? Thanks in advance.picture
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Goldhunter_2
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Post Number: 15
Registered: 11-2007

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Posted on Monday, November 12, 2007 - 09:50 am:   

cool hard top does it come with AC
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Argohunter
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Username: Argohunter

Post Number: 77
Registered: 02-2005

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Posted on Wednesday, December 26, 2007 - 02:53 am:   

This Argo is for sale about 100 miles away from me so I have not looked at it just yet. It's listed as a 1977 model. Argo did not make a Conquest in 1977 nor did they use a Kawasaki 620 engine back then. Who has the Argo history book that can tell me when the Conquest was first made and when did they start using the Kawasaki engine? I'm thinking 1994. Anybody want to venture a guess as to what model this is? If it is really a 1977 model, it sure looks like a Conquest but I suppose someone could have put a Conquest upper tub on an old 8I/C, Magnum, Response. Maybe the inside picture can help ID it. No pictures of the engine/inside of the tub available. I'm thinking that the model year is listed wrong. $4200.00. Comes with tracks too but no more info available.
argoinside
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MO Max & Argo Dealer
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Username: Brandon_price

Post Number: 255
Registered: 01-2005

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Posted on Wednesday, December 26, 2007 - 04:14 pm:   

Where is that Argo for sale? It looks exactly like one I sold this past summer.
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Argohunter
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Post Number: 78
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Posted on Wednesday, December 26, 2007 - 05:55 pm:   

Brandon, it's in Wisconsin and I understand it's a 1997 not 1977. If you think it's the one you sold, did you sell it with tracks?
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Argohunter
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Posted on Thursday, December 27, 2007 - 03:34 am:   

Sent you a PM Brandon, since then I talked to the previous owner. He had it for several years and bought it in WI, so I guess there is another one out there that looks like this one. Did it have the homemade mud flaps at the rear? This Conquest has 310 hours on the meter. Used only on the guys property to run his trap lines and for hunting and ice fishing on his place. He said he never floated it on his pond. The plastic windows on the top are prettey bad as they are fogged and hard to see in and out.
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MO Max & Argo Dealer
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Username: Brandon_price

Post Number: 256
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Posted on Thursday, December 27, 2007 - 03:07 pm:   

I replied to your email address, Argohunter. The vehicle I sold had a heater and I don't see those vents in the cab picture you have. Still it is amazingly similar. Mine had homemade mud flaps, tracks, and the cab windows were fogged a bit. I think I sold it with somewhere around 150 hours, and it went to northern Illinois/Wisconsin area. If you are not interested in the vehicle, send me the info on it and I may take a look.
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Argohunter
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Posted on Friday, December 28, 2007 - 03:39 am:   

I responded to your email Brandon.
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Jamie Levangie
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Posted on Wednesday, January 02, 2008 - 11:33 pm:   

new to board and 6x6 so pls bear with me .
got a prairie bob cat seems to be made in alberta
put in new chains [$100,local HD parts store]
fiberglass,spray paint and its rolling ,now the hard part ,it looks like it was a unfinished project when I got it so I don't think the engine is orignal.so if anyone can help with the wiring[I HATE WIRING]it would be much apprecated .the engine is a Kohler model K399st .this is a 399 cc twin 2 stroke I never had it running as the starter is pooched [had it tested ]but all the wiring is loose spagetti.I tryed the kohler web site for help but the engine is not even listed
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Justin Philp
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Registered: 03-2008

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Posted on Tuesday, April 01, 2008 - 12:55 pm:   

hey,
im new to the argo trend jsut jumped on the band wagon my buddy and i were given an old 1978 argo 8x8 by his grandfather, we took her out this past weekend and she was running alright but definately in need of a good tune up! on our way back to the farm just as we got to the edge of the property... she died.... turns over great but she wont stay runnin... i assume carb work, change the fuel lines, filters and what not... considering that was the furthest she has driven in 5 years, but anwyays we were told and shown by my budys grandfather where he thought the "points" were on the argo and that they wuld proably have to be replaced but when i contacted the argo dealer earlier they said that points have never been used on argos? is this true?>
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Len Cater
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Username: Lcater

Post Number: 75
Registered: 02-2005

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Posted on Tuesday, April 01, 2008 - 02:59 pm:   

Fuel problems. if it was sitting that long, then the carb is gummed up and the jets are really small. Get yourself a carb overhaul kit, and an air gun and get to work on the carb. New fuel filter as well. You will find it probably runs for a while and then dies again as the jets will cycle the dirt bits around. Start there. Replace the plugs. Give her an oil change and lube the chains and all grease points for the bearings (inside the tub and outside the tub). That's pretty much it.
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Justin Philp
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Posted on Tuesday, April 01, 2008 - 03:22 pm:   

can i get that carb overhaul kit from any argo dealer? and what type of plugs should i use? i run a BR9ES in my sleds.... shuld i use a high heat plug like that?
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Len Cater
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Username: Lcater

Post Number: 76
Registered: 02-2005

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Posted on Wednesday, April 02, 2008 - 06:53 am:   

You should get the engine number and run the plug rcommended for that. As for the carb kit, I don't know if you have a kholer or B&S engine in it but I would go to your local lawnmower shop who services these types of engines. They can get parts, but go in with the make and engine number.
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Justin Philp
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Username: Justin

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Posted on Wednesday, April 02, 2008 - 04:33 pm:   

perfect thanks a lot Len!
ya its the Hohler 17 engine.... everything on it looks original... should i take the carb right apart or just run carb cleaner through it?
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Len Cater
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Username: Lcater

Post Number: 77
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Posted on Thursday, April 03, 2008 - 03:55 pm:   

Take the carb out, cover the intake hole on the engine to keep crap out. As well, I learned this the hard way, only replace the fuel filter with a true kohler oem fuel filter. A generic filter will start starving the engine after about 1 hour. Don't know why, but I had that problem for about a month, went on some kohler engine boards and this seemed a common issue. I even told the dealer who put the generic one in to stop doing it. Good luck.
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Justin Philp
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Username: Justin

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Registered: 03-2008

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Posted on Monday, May 19, 2008 - 11:31 am:   

well same old predicament.... to date i have changed plugs, wires, coil, fuel filter(twice with two different KOHLER filters) fuel lines, drop and drained the tank, cleaned carborator twice changed point, changed to different point settings(20000, 10000, 8000, cigerette cardboard width... and still shes a real B****!!! she might run good for ten minutes then sluggish and seems liek its bogging out.... have no idea what it could be besdies a very tiny hole in the diaphram of the fuel pump.... but i dont think it would affect it, or would it? all i know is im stumped!!!!! any suggestions would be greatly apreciated!
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philip w.cox
Senior Member
Username: Philipatmaxfour

Post Number: 534
Registered: 01-2005

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Posted on Monday, May 19, 2008 - 09:00 pm:   

Tiny hole in the fuel pump diaphram....you are kidding us ,right? You do know that this is going to make you starve for fuel...if this is really a problem,then you have just solved it for yourself. Happy Riding
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Jerry Nuss - Illinois MAX dealer
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Username: Jerrynuss

Post Number: 681
Registered: 02-2005

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Posted on Tuesday, May 20, 2008 - 09:24 am:   

Justin,
After it cools down will it start right up again and run fine for about 10 minutes? Then what happens? Have you checked the fuel cap? Sometimes the vent holes will get plugged and after a while the fuel pump won't have enough vacuum to pull in the fuel.
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Joe J
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Username: Jjconst07

Post Number: 47
Registered: 12-2007

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Posted on Tuesday, May 20, 2008 - 10:46 pm:   

I would think that the hole in that diaphram is the problem like Philip said, as it is they take forever to get the gas up to the carb, I cant imagine how it could even run with even the slightest hole.
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Missouri's Max Dealer
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Username: Brandon_price

Post Number: 275
Registered: 01-2005

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Posted on Wednesday, May 21, 2008 - 07:45 pm:   

Argo's fuel tank is vented to the rear of the vehicle. There is a small tube that exits the body just under the body lip. That little hose can get plugged with mud or even a bug. Check that hose or just remove the gas cap and see if that changes things.

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