| Author |
Message |
    
Ken Walter
New member
Username: Mad_max
Post Number: 1
Registered: 12-2005
Posted From: 66.212.150.171
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, December 24, 2005 - 01:05 pm: | |
I don't even know where to start here but I'm really glad I found this place! I have a very old Max II with a JLO 295. I haven't had it running for 3 or 4 years now at least because it blew a chain off and took the idlers out with it. When I bought it, I found out that it didn't have the left rear chain on it so the seller must have had problems with it too. Nice guy!!! Well I'm thinking of digging it back out and going over it but I want to make sure I get everything set up good as far as the chains and sprockets go. It has,I think, wheel adapters on it now because the wheels are 5 bolt but the axles have three bolts on the end. I was really thinking of making all new axles and converting the inside bushings to bearings. It also has the #40 chains from the center axles to the front and rear and I wondered if I should change them to #50 while I'm redoing everything?
If anyone has info on what steel is prefered for the axles and what inner bearings will work, I'd appreciate it.
I don't have a lot of money to put into this but I do have a lathe to use and do a lot of welding so I'm hoping I can make a lot of the parts to save some money.
Has anyone changed the idlers to a bearing mount with heavier shafts? I'll likely build a new idler for the one that is destroyed because from what I remember from looking years ago, that thing was expensive!!!
Just looking to get pointed in the right direction on this thing as I'm tired of looking at it not running and it's about time I start working on it!!!!
Thanks,
Ken |
Howard Hoover
New member
Username: Howard_hoover
Post Number: 4
Registered: 10-2005
Posted From: 4.161.110.183
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, December 24, 2005 - 11:14 pm: | |
I used to have a MaxII with an 18 HP JLO in it, it didn't have enough power to suit me so I sold it pretty quick. Now I'm bulding my own!
If you have a lathe that will take you a long way. Are you a Machinist by trade or just for Hobby? I have a Smithy Granite 1324 and I will be doing a lot with it. it's a little light but it will be ok for my project. I would suggest colled rolled for the axles I'm not familiar with all the different types but I'd go with some kind of cold rolled. And while your at it you might as well check your frame for cracks especially around the T-20 Trans I had a crack under my trans where it's bolted up.
I don't know it all for sure but there are some other people on here who can help you out even more. My profile says I've only posted about 3 or 4 times but actually I've been reading and posting on here for about 3 or 4 years now. I had another Max II with a B&S 16 HP eng. it didn't suit me either so I'm going to use a VW eng. in the one I'm building now. |
Ken Walter
New member
Username: Mad_max
Post Number: 2
Registered: 12-2005
Posted From: 66.212.150.171
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, December 25, 2005 - 11:53 am: | |
Howard,
I had some schooling in machining but never worked in the field. It's all going over seas now and the pay is pretty bad for a starting machinist. I figured for sure to use cold rolled of the right diameter but I know there are a lot of different grades and some tool grades that can be machined OK but are pretty tough without heat treatment. Guess if you knew the alloy used, it shouldn't cost too much to have them heat treated by a shop that can do it.
I figure at this point, I'll likely strip it all the way down and pull the frame and check it all out. Rather do it once and be done with it!!
What VW engine are you putting in it?? That sounds pretty extreme to me!!! I do have an older Rotex 640 two stroke out of an old Ski-Doo but I had thought that snowmobile engines were know to not really have the right cooling for other applications. I'm sure the 640 would take some serious beefing of the Max to handle that size engine.
I'm just talking out of my head now because I haven't looked at the machine for a long time and don't know if there is room, but has anyone ever converted one of these to a belt drive system?? They use a belt on a lot of motorcycles now and they can transfer some big power through them!! Just seems it could get rid of a lot of the problems that you can have with all the chains but I guess if the chains and sprockets are all good, it should be fine.
That is my biggest worry now, getting everything as far as the axles and drive system to be updated and reliable. No fun getting the Max out of a remote location when it's broken!!
Ken |
Howard Hoover (Unregistered Guest)
Unregistered guest
Posted From: 4.161.23.186
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, December 25, 2005 - 02:29 pm: | |
I'm using a 1600 cc GEX crate eng. was planning on using an automatic in fact it's already been rebuilt but I might change my mind and use a
4 spd IRS unit so I can use a QUAIFE diff in it,
that way both sides would pull. I sent Quaife my Automatic to examine and they said they couldn't put one of their units in it as there was not enough room for it.
I am planning on using belt drives in my ATV to help lighten it up some, also no grease or oil to mess with so machine will stay cleaner inside, less maintenance, they are a lot more expensive but I think it will be worth it in the long run. I haven,t heard of anyone converting to belt drives probably because of the expense mainly I would say. But some people say belts are endless and would be harder to replace in the field. In my case you would have to pull 2 axles out in order to replace one belt where as if it were a chain you could wrap it around the sprockets and your pretty much done, but I seriously doubt that once I get the belt drives set up & aligned properly I'll have any problems. My stepdad has a 1985 Lowrider with a belt drive with the original belt still on it and it has no signs of wear or cracking. |
Jerry R. Nuss, Max Dealer in Illinois
Advanced Member
Username: Jerrynuss
Post Number: 186
Registered: 02-2005
Posted From: 71.244.219.127
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, December 25, 2005 - 03:18 pm: | |
I came across this website that may be of interest to you;
http://www.sdp-si.com/
If you are going to make your own axles you could go ahead and set yourself up with a belt drive system. I think you could probably buy the axles for less than making them but I may be wrong. I don't know what belt lengths are available but I'm sure you could find something close. I ran into a guy about 2 weeks ago with a VW engine in his Max. It was a type 4 VW engine. I don't know how it performed and it looked heavy to me for the horse power it could put out. What is your intended use of the machine? If you are wanting controlability through rough terrain and not wanting a fast race machine why not use the proven components like a 23hp Kohler? |
liflod
Intermediate Member
Username: Liflod
Post Number: 64
Registered: 01-2005
Posted From: 24.3.236.145
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, December 25, 2005 - 05:41 pm: | |
I'm not sure why you would want to use a belt on a off road vehicle. Regardless of how hard you try, you will get debris around the belt. Are the cogs on the belt enough to keep them engaged to the axles while bouncing around? How about tensioners for them? Cost for the whole set up? I think all it would take is to get some leaves and sticks around the belt to mess it up. |
Ken Walter
New member
Username: Mad_max
Post Number: 3
Registered: 12-2005
Posted From: 66.212.150.171
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, December 26, 2005 - 12:01 pm: | |
Thanks for all the info!! I'm thinking the belt idea may not really be that good. It's not the same as having a belt on a Harley and I'm sure the Max frame does flex quite a bit.
My plan for this thing is just to use it and enjoy it with the JLO 295 that's in it now. I may at some point up-grade to a bigger engine but I would likely keep it a two stroke for weight savings and max power per cc.
I haven't actually priced axles but I don't think they could be as cheap as buying some CRS and building them and as I plan on changing the inner bushings to bearings while I'm at it, this will give me the chance to make any changes I want to while I'm building everything.
I'm REALLY leaning toward changing the final drive chains to #50s. They did this on the Maxes newer than mine and I'm SURE there was a reason. A company doesn't usually put more expensive parts in what they build without a good reason!
Ken |
Restoration of older ATV's