| Author |
Message |
    
George M
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:43 pm: | |
I've just managed to get my hands on a wild wolf engine and a thunder chief engine. Does anyone know if I can drop either of these in to a '72 Colt? There are only 4 chains in a Colt and I dont want to overpower them.
Thanks |
pete6x6
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:43 pm: | |
George,
Use the wild wolf engine. |
Matthew Comeau
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:43 pm: | |
I'am new to this sport or hobby. Where can I buy a used machine that I can restore. Matt |
kush
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:43 pm: | |
Has anybody come across a source for the staples & staple gun to put the body halves back together?
I know I can use pop rivets, but the factory didn't & I think the staples would hold better. |
Steve Van Doren
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:43 pm: | |
I have an Attex ST340R that I bought new in 1970 or 71. Up until about six months ago I was still running it, but the body is in need of replacement as are several tires, bearings, etc. It has a Single cylinder 28 horse Rockwell JLO engine with Tillotson carburetor.
What's your opinion? Is it worth restoring?
Also, can I get a Users manual anywhere?
Thanks, Steve |
John Kevin Maiolo (Johnmaiolo)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:43 pm: | |
YOU CAN GET A MANUAL FROM RICHARD CLARK. I WOULD RESTORE IT. BY THE WAY, RICHARD HAS NEW ATTEX BODIES, AND, IF YOUR REPLACING YOURS, (ABS?) I'LL TAKE IT. |
liflod (Liflod)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:43 pm: | |
It is probably worth restoring for personal use. If you shop around and do the work yourself, you can probably go through it for under $500. The body is expensive to replace, but Dave Berger has the stuff you need to fix the body. If you sink a bunch of money into it , you will probably not get it back if you want to sell it. |
schunn
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:43 pm: | |
My 400 chief engine doesn't want to start. I pulled the plugs out and turned over the motor -- good blue spark from both plugs.
I have gas from fuel pump to the carb bowl. When I hold my hand over the carb intake and turn over motor, my hand gets soaked with gas. Don't see a bunch of gas on the plugs, however. I'm trying to find a replacement O-ring for the carb to intake flange, as it is flattened out with age.
Perhaps a vaccum leak?
Anybody have any ideas on how to start the JLO?
Steve |
Attex Bob
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:43 pm: | |
Steve this is what I would do.
#1 Take a compression test. This will check several problems at once.
#2 Shoot some ether in carb and crank. Does it pop or try to start? This will check if it's a fuel problem or a spark problem.
Do these tests and let us know what you find. Give us some info too. When did this start to happen? Did it sit for awhile? Did it start to get worse? The more info the better. |
roadwolf
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:43 pm: | |
schunn, i never met a engine that said "no" to ether that was ment to run. do as attex bob says and "dude it" like david berger "dude-ed it", hee hee. |
Attex Bob
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:43 pm: | |
i never met a engine that said "no" to ether that was ment to run.
Ha ha ha ha ha ha!!!!!!!!!!!! Good one Roadwolf!!!! I like that one alot!!!!!!! |
schunn
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:43 pm: | |
OK, I'm still struggling with the 400 JLO. It will run decent for a while and then when you shut it down, it does not want to start back.
new plugs are at .018
carb has been removed and spray cleaned with carb cleaner. It seems to be ok except that the idle mixture screw causes no change when the screw is turned in or out. Makes no difference.
While it does not start, you can get lots of blue sparks when you pull plugs out and turn engine over with the electric starter.
Pulled the heads and found a very small amount of water on top of the pistons. Cleaned out the water and removed the light film of buildup on the piston top.
It will wet the spark plug when you turn it over a lot and it does not start up.
I suspect the condensors and points may need sme attention.
It does seem to have some bearing on not wanting to start when the engine gets hot until it cools back off.
Fuel pump will pulse fuel out of the discharge tube when you turn the motor over rapidly.
have a gas in line filter in place. The fuel pump is lower than the discharge pet cock of the fuel tank.
The fuel tank was cleaned out with orange citrus solvent and flushed out with water to remove the debris and solvent.
When I drained fuel into a glass jar, I did not see any water in the bottom of the jar.
Have not been able to get the magneto off of the shaft yet. |
JT Barleman
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:43 pm: | |
Strongly sugget you check the seals on the end of the crank (BOTH) ends. Had a very similar problem.(Wouldn't start when hot) Turned out the engine was sucking air through the bottom end.
JT |
Attex Bob
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:43 pm: | |
Steve, did you do the compression like the advice above? What was it?
Where did the water come from? Fuel? Did it sit out in the rain?
You need to clean the carb again if the mixture screw does nothing.
You need to answer some questions before I can help you out. |
schunn
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:43 pm: | |
Attex Bob----
I don't have any apparatus to do a compression test. Had the heads off and the pistons are not tight in the cyclinders, you can make them rattle against the side when you move them back and forth. I "rented" a wheel puller today from autozone to removed the stator wheel. Return it and My $16.00 "rental charge" will be returned. Does anyone know if you could rent a compression tester from autozone? With the pistons slapping, I would be suprised if the compression was good. What is the fix for low compression? Do you need to overbore the cylinders? or install new pistons and rings or hopefully, just rings?
Water was in the fuel tank before I started using it. Its past is not fully known, I would expect that in the last 30 years, it has probably set out in the rain a few times. It has new fuel lines and a new filter. I disassembled the mikuni fuel pump and it did not appear to have any tears in the diaphram.
I have a carb kit ordered from manufacturers supply for the mikuni VM carb. Perhaps I can soak it in a carb cleaner solution before I put in new carb kit. Will the idle mixture circuit cause hard or no starting?
Today, I got into the magneto system. I ordered new points and condensors. It has two coils. ONe has two coils stacked the other is a single coil. On the two coils that are stacked, I believe those would be the ignition magneto coils as opposed to the other, which is probably the alternator coil. Anyway, the double coil has some ragged looking areas. I am guessing that this coil has been damaged, as if someone had stuck a screwdriver in thru the stator wheel and contacted the coils vigorously. It really looks like it needs to be replaced.
Steve |
Attex Bob
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:43 pm: | |
Steve it's impossible for me to say if the pistons are ok, but that does not sound good. If it does have alot of play your going to have to bore it to get it right. If you don't have the experience to tell about the bore deal I would advise you to take it to a good machine shop and say " what do you think"? The good thing about 2 strokes is that they are not hard or very expensive to rebuild.
About the idle circuit making it hard to start. Yes, that is the only thing that pulls fuel when you start it, not the main circuit. There should be a tiny hole in back of the slide, on the side of the body if I remember right, that is the idle circuit. Blow some carb cleaner through it and see where it comes out. It's been along time since I have worked on those carbs so look around. If you blow carb cleaner through the holes you will get a visual check on whether the port is clear.
I just don't know about Auto Zone and the compression tester. No Auto Zones where I live. Sounds like a question you can ask you can ask when you return the puller. Since you have the heads off anyway, you might as well take it to the machine shop and skip the Comp test.
Good luck and let us know what you find out. |
schunn
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:43 pm: | |
Attex Bob
Regarding the idle mixture settings that do not respond to changes of the idle mixture screws:
I removed the idle mixture screw and sprayed carb cleaner into the mixture screw hole, with the little red plastic spray tube on the carb cleaner can. I observed a vigorous flow of cleaner coming out of one of the little holes that can be observed when you look directly into mouth of the carb. I suppose it has a passage that leads into the air side or the fuel side of the carb.
I suppose I could temporarily block off the hole where it does come out and see if it will go anywhere else, like into the carb instead of out of the carb.
Anyway, I am patient and determined. It will run properly before I am finished with it.
Steve |
Attex Bob
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:43 pm: | |
Steve, thats it and it sounds like it is clear. The other thing I would check is the air bleeds. On these carbs I don't know where they are at. They almost have to be at the opening of the carb. Find any hole at the throat and do the samething. If an air bleed is plugged you will get no fuel because it will pull a vacuum on the port and not allow fuel to travel up the passage.
Sounds like you are getting things squared away. Sounds like you will have it running good in no time!!! Let us know how things go!!! |
schunn
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:43 pm: | |
Attex Bob:
I have been reading up on 2 cycle theory and have concluded that with sloppy fitting pistons, I may not be developing enough suction and/or compression to pull a nice fresh charge of atomized fuel into the crankcase, where it will be compressed by the piston down stroke and then picked up into the cylinder on the up stroke. If you can't move the fuel to where you need it, it may fire and respond to a shot of starting fluid but not have sufficient vacuum/pressure to bring in fuel by itself.
Shezzam
Steve |
elroyfrmn
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:43 pm: | |
hi all, i am restoring a 78' superchief. at least im pretty sure thats what it is. pics are on yahoo groups 6x6 club. hope to talk to all you attex people . later
eric |
George
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:43 pm: | |
Anyone have a suggestion on repairing small cracks to the plastic fuel tanks? I've tried JB Weld, epoxy and form-a-gasket. Either glues are not bonding to the plastic (not an ABS) or the gasoline is disolving the bond. These cracks are 1/8 and 1/4th inches long and near the top. The repair does not need to bare the full weight of the fuel.
Thanks,
George |
bigkodiak
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:43 pm: | |
Geprge
Contact JB Weld. I called them one time about just the problem you are discussing. They do have a product that will work on the plastic fuel tanks.
Russ |
fred sain
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:43 pm: | |
George, most auto body shops have plastic welders, that they use to repair all kinds of plastic. We have one in our shop, and have repaired the plastic fuel tanks. It works great. You can also repair the plastic bodies on the ARGO & max. |
Jim Stiver - Western PA MAX Dealer (Viper)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:43 pm: | |
George,
Here is a link to a product that you might want to try:
http://www.caswellplating.com/aids/epoxygas.htm |
Jerry Kennedy (Jerry)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:43 pm: | |
I am looking to but an Attex 208TT. I understand these don't have reverse. Is this correct? Are parts available for these? Any suggestions. This machine is apart now. I am not afraid of a project but don't want to get hung out with out parts. |
Tim Boskovich
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:43 pm: | |
I am inquiring about buying an Attex 295 that has been sitting for several years. What should I look for to know if it is worth buying. Tim |
oldnatva
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:43 pm: | |
Hi, Tim;
Find out if it's a later model (295 Wild Wolf)with the T20 transmission or earlier (model 297)model with the Baker/Hill unit. Parts are getting increasingly harder to find for the older units, but Recreatives still sells most parts to fit the skid-steer T20. You can usually find or make most other parts for the machines, and quite a few people are changing over from the two-strokes to the more "modern" four-stroke engines. |
Preston
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:43 pm: | |
Tim
Richard Clark onwer of this site, has most everything in stock
for later Attex at good prices, his transmission prices are much less
than recreatives
Sam Preston |
Len (Unregistered Guest)
Unregistered guest
Posted From: 67.163.252.48
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, June 25, 2005 - 10:53 pm: | |
Old Attex kicks out of gear. Pulled the diamond things out and the pins are not sheared off, but have some flat spots. Does the flat spots screw up holding in gear? Can the pins change out or do I need the entire shifter assy.? Where can I get a throttle cable? |
david berger
Intermediate Member
Username: Davidrrrd
Post Number: 87
Registered: 01-2005
Posted From: 172.131.130.135
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, June 26, 2005 - 09:39 am: | |
len throtle cable is easy to make from bicicle derailer cable, get it from bycicle specialty store, the 96" kit,
derailer cable works slick as lightning and dosent get screwed up so easy as the brake cables used by all other manufacturers,
"and or" this may be the time for an upgrade of the aluminum kind!
get an aluminum throtle from recreatives cause theyr the strongest throtl handls going,
i mean realy why did it take 30 years to chaing over from plastic on such an inportent part as a throtle??? huh??? |
Len (Unregistered Guest)
Unregistered guest
Posted From: 67.163.252.48
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, June 26, 2005 - 09:48 pm: | |
Thanks! Cable is coming from bicycle guru owes me a favor. Where can I get a new gas cap, getting rust in tank and no sealing from mine. Some old car the same? In trans, the pins on the drums that go with the diamond shifter thing, anyone know how to get them out? Mine are flat spotted. |
david berger
Intermediate Member
Username: Davidrrrd
Post Number: 89
Registered: 01-2005
Posted From: 172.167.167.254
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, June 27, 2005 - 09:43 am: | |
old car gas caps fit but i forget wich ones,
i did have a gremlin cap on one once,
mr clark might have the bayonet caps or recreativs might have them,
old snowmobile tanks used the bayonet caps too!
or ask dave copland, he had asked this question about gas caps a month ago and might have the ansers by now, attex@hotmail.com
also his web site:
http://www.attex atvs.com/attex_company_history.htm |
steve chunn
Member
Username: Semper_fi
Post Number: 20
Registered: 03-2006
Posted From: 64.12.116.197
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, February 18, 2007 - 12:43 am: | |
Need some advice for a plastic fuel tank fitting:
I have a threaded inside and outside brass fitting that is 1/2" pipe thread. I need to create a fuel return fitting into my plastic attex fuel tank. Can someone advise what i can use for seals on the fitting so that fuel does not leak around the outside of the fitting.
Thanks
Steve |
david berger
Senior Member
Username: Davidrrrd
Post Number: 506
Registered: 01-2005
Posted From: 72.72.32.68
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, February 18, 2007 - 10:39 am: | |
steve in a recent post about amphicat gas tanks i told of a fule tank fitting where one just drills a 1/2" hol;e in the tank and place a neopreen gromit in the hole and push in a steal double nipple thingy that can be used as a pickup or as a retern line, it is available at snowmobile shops and power equipment shopes ect..ect..
i used 2 of them and they worked just fine |
steve chunn
Member
Username: Semper_fi
Post Number: 21
Registered: 03-2006
Posted From: 64.12.116.197
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, February 18, 2007 - 04:23 pm: | |
Dave - My plumber gave me a few brass fittings and they are very similar to the one on the tank for the fuel supply. It uses a pipe thread fitting with an EMT conduit nut to tighten it into place. I like the way it tightens into position and it seems like it would be good for many moons. Only thing is that not every thing that one would want to use to seal the gas from leaking out is actually resistant to gas. That is why I wanted to go that way to match what I have now. I suppose you could use an automotive gasket sealer for the gasketed surfaces.?
Also, I noticed that I am no longer a "Junior Member" but am a "Member" of this site. I also noticed that some of the participants are various types of advanced members. Just wondering what the post point levels were for these classifications?
thanks
steve |
Restoration of older ATV's 
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