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Jerold Interlicchia (Drifty)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:24 pm: | 
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Have a Max II and am considering a plow for the vehicle.Would like to know if anyone has plans etc. for such a set up.Want to do it correctly as to not destroy the machine.
Thanks,
Jerry |
Fred Sowerwine, Montana's Max Dealer (Fred4dot)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:24 pm: |
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Drifty, I'm pretty sure you can buy the plow brackets and the plow mounting arm as repair parts from RI. Get them and you can do whatever you wish from there. |
kurtz64
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:24 pm: |
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Could someone send me pics or information on how to make plow mounts for a max II. |
david berger (Davidrrrd)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:24 pm: |
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i have a home made plow mount ect.. made poorly by previous owner of my maxII, it did a great job however, he told me recreatives told him exactly how to do it including dimentions over the phone.
it's very good ecept for his welding abilitys.
at some point i did have it re-welded just to be shure it would hold up.
not too tricky to build,
on each side from the center bearing flanget bolts to the frount bearing flanget bolts you need a 1/4 inch thick steal plate maybe 3" - 4" high with the 3 bolts holes at each end maching the flanget holes -of coarse some sort of notch to alow it to be fanagled over center and frount axel to atach and laiter remove it,
mines actualy a little shorter ,he welded wings to the end to grab the bolt holes and even wings off the wings for one of the holes.
now you need a big ass bolt about 15" behind the frount axel and maybe 10" befor the center axel. weld the head to the plate with threds strat out from it,weld this bolt securly as it will suport your plow and transmit all the power from your max to the plow blade. mines 3" long 3/4"bolt
for the fraim you build an "A" shaped with pipe or squair tubeing, something strong 30" from that bolt forward on each side and then bend twards each other 29" to the point, adorn this point with something to dril a hole for your plow pivot in, ect. ect.
on other end you only need to put a 4" angle iron or something with a 3/4" hole for the bolt and weld it to your pipe fraim with about 3" drop to the top of the fraim,
this should alow your plow to dig right in and also rais enophe befor it hits frount axel to make you happy,
plan to use a good winch with power in and out, something wich will not draw to much current because our machins are notorios for poor charging capacity, i forget who posted his recomendation of a pully block on the plow fraim reterning the cable to the winch block to compownd the winches power.
i think that prevented some winches from droping the plow blade when not under power or something like that,
you might even play with this design some by expirementing with going up from mounting point and above the axels and then down and to the "A"point, this would give your ground clearens back when unit is on vehicle and maybe even alow plow to be raised higher too!
i dident think it posable but i fount it was posable to trail ride with this contraption hanging under my machine, i only left off the plow blade. it did dig a few holes hear and there but that did not stop me .
e-mail me and maybe i can get a pic or 2 |
liflod (Liflod)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:24 pm: |
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At one point in time , I was going to add a plow to my Attex. The idea I came up with was using a pillow block bearing on the front axle to give me something to mount my plow to and allow it to pivot up and down. With a winch on the front already, there would be absolutley no modifications to the machine. |
Fred Sowerwine, Montana's Max dealer (Fred4dot)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:24 pm: |
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Lance, Only problem with your idea is bending front axles. The plate RI uses is mounted right to the flange over the nuts that hold the flange together and goes over both the middle and front bearings flanges. On machines with tracks, the plow mount is part of the front bearing cage, but you are told to not use the plow unless the axle support rail is in place. Just too much strain on one set of axles. |
Mike
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:24 pm: |
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RI sells the mounting plates that spans from front to center bearing flange for about $150 each side plus shipping. This is for use w/o tracks on the machine. Theirs is approx 3/16" thick plate. For that much cost, a local job shop could probably fabricate the mounts cheaper. A lot depends on how big and heavy a plow blade you plan to use. If you are going to use a lawn tractor type plow blade, you might get by with the mounts just on the front bearing flange. If working up a mount for the front bearing flanges only, consider a 42" to 48" blade from a lawn tractor. The blade can be widened to 60". The weight of the blade is minimal as it is light gauge steel. If you use a heavier blade, you may want to use the longer plate between the front and center bearings to distribute out the weight. |
Mike
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:24 pm: |
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Also think about using the forward end of the fabricated mounting that fits over the front bearing flange and welding on an L shaped extension to it that sticks out to the front. Drill a hole in that extension to pin or bolt your plow A-frame on. This would allow good lift on the plow and raising the plow blade would not be limited by it's bumping into the front axle. |
david berger (Davidrrrd)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:24 pm: |
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only trouble mounting that far in the frount you will lift your frount wheels off the ground when you push the snow, well that will reduce your pushing traction, the more centraleized mouning point provides the greatest traction and pushing power. |
E.J. Warden
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:24 pm: |
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I have pictures of my 1981 Attex with a plow mounted on the front axles with bearings, raised and lowered with a winch. Works great. As far as the plow "lifting"... I made the plow heavy enough that it is not an issue. Anyone interested in the pictures can contact me. See ya |
liflod (Liflod)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:24 pm: |
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Oh my god !!!!! You're taking an awful risk. You know those axles will break if you happen to hit a small stone while you are plowing snow. Even worse, you may have to walk all the way from the end of your driveway where you broke both front axles. Be sure you carry enough supplies with you in case you have to camp out in the driveway for a few days.
I think you should be on the safe side and go buy a new Hydrotraxx with 18 inch tracks and a 7' snow plow. You know, better safe than sorry :) |
Bubba Hunt
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:24 pm: |
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Lif, that sounds like a good idea to me..Those driveways can be mean in a snow-storm. Personally, I have a snow-blower instead of bustin-up my old Max.Put the blade it on a few years ago and got tired of buying parts for it.Now I have the plow on my Polaris 500 4x4 and it pushes the snow 10 times as fast and never breaks. Love that old Polaris. Yah know, it may even be better for that than my HT.The only bad thing about it is I have a hard time tieing my tent,sleeping bag, stove and supplies on it. Not to forget the port-a-potty, and 10 day survival kit.
Bubba |
ej warden
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:24 pm: |
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I have a snowblower, but it has 2 crucial drawbacks as compared to the Attex. 1- you walk behind it and 2- no beer holder.
see ya, E.J. |
anthony gregg gentry
New member
Username: Brushcutter
Post Number: 1
Registered: 09-2007
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, November 04, 2007 - 01:36 pm: |
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I have an old hustler that I am restoring.Living in west central Louisiana I rarely(never)have to be concerned with plowing snow but often find it necessary to take out briars and brush to get to where I want to hunt or fish. I owned a maxiv on which I put a 1/8" aluminum skidplate from front to back,to do this I used 1/4"x4" plate steel, bored holes for axles and bearing bolts welded 2"x2"x1/4"angle iron to each of these 1 for each axle,welded braces and brackets for front and rear brush guard,bolted aluminum plate to all and had a stump proof bottom.I sold this machine to buy into some property;that fell through,so I bought a 350 Honda Rancher 4x4.I like this bike and have built a dozer blade and a short angled light duty brush blade that is raised and lowered by a warn 2500# winch. These can be raised to a position level with the front rack so that they do not have to be removed during, and do not interfere with normal riding.The brush blade will cut trees up to 1 1/2"and briars. I also built and have applied for a patent on a v-blade that cuts trees up to 5"dia. It doesn't take me long to bust a trail or clear a food plot you see.
As I said before I like my Rancher,but I LOVED my Max.So it is that I have come to believe that each machine has its place and a beaver swamp is not the place for 4x4's-THEY SINK-you-GET WET-
Did I mention that I also had a Hustler at the same time I had the max,I used parts from it-transmission-to get the max going sold all for $2600-I was robbed.Looking back I would add at least half that just for labor!!! HELLO-COME BACK!?
Now I said all that to say this:There doesn't seem to be as much foot room in the floor of the Hustler as in the Max.Just going from memory I believe that max frame WAS wider.My method of attaching winch mount/braces would interfere with drivers foot placement/comfort.A heavy duty winch mount is needed to handle the stresses of operating the blades that I will put on this machine.I am going to build the attachment bar pivots so that they can remain on the machine minus the blades and they will anchor to the frame on at least the front 2 bearings.For those who have problems keeping front tires grounded try letting out only enough winch line to allow plows to make contact with ground,this works on my 4x4. Will try to keep you posted on my progress. This a great site |
R.J. roe
Member
Username: Gone_to_the_max
Post Number: 38
Registered: 02-2007
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, November 11, 2007 - 07:28 pm: |
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i have pictures and information posted in other related atv topics of the mounts that i made |
Jeff bar
Member
Username: Argo8x8
Post Number: 49
Registered: 03-2005
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, November 13, 2007 - 09:42 pm: |
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Here is a photo of a MAX plow I came across
Jeff Bar |
Steve Chansler
Junior Member
Username: Newatver
Post Number: 10
Registered: 09-2007
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, November 14, 2007 - 07:44 pm: |
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Jeff Got any more photos maybe installed? |
Jeff bar
Member
Username: Argo8x8
Post Number: 50
Registered: 03-2005
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, November 15, 2007 - 12:45 pm: |
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Steve Photo of MAX II set up
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gregg g
New member
Username: Brushcutter
Post Number: 9
Registered: 09-2007
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, November 15, 2007 - 09:32 pm: |
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Jeff,how heavy is your plow,and have you ever tried breaking new trails with it.Also how well does it work?Do the springs allow it to break over easily when you hit something solid such as a root?When I tried a similar spring arrangement on the blade I built for my 4x4 it would not work to suit me so I built an adjustable shock absorber which works much better.I can't tell if yours has some mechanism to limit how far forward the blade tilts when you hit something solid,does it?It appears that it can pivot from side to side which is always a good thing. All in all I like it. G |
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