| Author |
Message |
    
frank
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:28 pm: | 
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Had my tranny rebuilt by Richard and had it reinstalled by a friend. The Max II goes in forward and reverse now, but it is hard to get it in gear - sounds like the gears are grinding and I have to patiently try to get in gear without too much grinding - is this normal? Frank |
Missouri's Max Dealer (Brandon_price)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:28 pm: |
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Sounds like the engine is idling to high or the belt is to tight. Make sure the drive clutch (on the engine) is not grabbing the belt at idle. The tranny is usually turning slowly when in neutral but gears grind when it is going to fast, just like if you were giving it gas. It also helps to pull the sticks back with one hand while shifting with the other. |
George
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:28 pm: |
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I found that pushing the sticks forward or backward helps get you in to gear. I can't remember what the relatiuon is (if you pull the sticks back to get the tranny in forward or vice versa) but whatever it is, the opposite works for reverse too. |
Attex Bob
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:28 pm: |
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You beat me to it Brandon. You took the words right off my keyboard!!!! :) |
Fred Sowerwine, Montana's Max dealer (Fred4dot)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:28 pm: |
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Frank, To add to what Brandon said; You basically have a brand new tranny and they are tight and hard to shift for a few hours of use. Do not grind the gears as you will just necessitate another rebuild. Patience is important with a T-20. Check your idle and belt tension (you should be able to walk the belt off the driven pulley without loosening anything. It is tight, but you should be able to get it off - that is the right tension.
When shifting, set your holding brake and rock the machine with your body. I try to shift just as I come to a stop. |
hillbillymax
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:28 pm: |
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just changed the fluid in my t-20. now I am having problems going in reverse. only the right side is pulling when in reverse. both sides work fine going forward. is there a problem internal or does the tranny need to be adjusted?? |
Attex Bob
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:28 pm: |
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How did you drain the T-20? Did you take it out and drain it?
Sounds like you have a bent shift rod? Make sure the two triangle are turning when and where they should. |
liflod (Liflod)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:28 pm: |
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I had the same problem with one of my machines. The pin that is attached to the triangle was bent. It allowed shifting one side between nuetral and forward, but reverse on that side didn't work. You will need to pull the shiftter out of the transmission to look at it. On the old machines there is a snap ring in the hole under the triangle and the newer machines have a angle bracket that hold the shifter in place.
Of course I discovered the problem when I was trying to back out of a dangerous situation. With only one side driving I could not go back, if I went forward I would drop over a 10 ft cliff. I ended up tying the machine off to a small tree to hold it from going over the cliff and lifting the front end of the machine to get it turned in the right direction going down hill. With the engine off and me walking along side the machine, I was able to drift and push the machine to where I could safley get in it and drive it out. |
hillbillymax
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:28 pm: |
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I think I found the problem. My kids where riding the max yesterday and it poped the drive chain off. After a quick repair out in the field I got the max back home and started trying to figure out why the chain came off. I found that one of the mounting bolts on the bottom of the t-20 was missing. this caused the tras to drop down and misalign the chain causing it to pop off.
I bought this machine used and so far have had to fix all kinds of problem. I guess when I had all the axels out replaceing all the bearings I should have just tore it down all the way to see if there was anything else wrong.
I don't know what happened to this bolt on the trans as it is not in the bottom of the machine and the mounting hole on the frame is elongated like the bolt was tearing it up. So it looks like I am going to have to remove the trans see if the houseing is striped out where the bolt goes. If so will have to re-tap it and then find a way to fix the frame and get everything re-aligned. Any suggestions on this????
This machine is a 97 Max IV the hour meter has 260 hrs on it when I bought it, now it has 265. I thought that it seemed to be in good shape. Well I was wrong. So far I have replaced all the bearings, had to have the drive sprocket taken to a machine shop and repaired, replaced 4 ideler sprockets and both the drive chains. I need to replace all the chains but those damm o-ring chains are alot $$$. Now I have this trans problem. I have spent more time working on this thing than riding it. Is this going to be the norm and it will break all the time? Do I need to sell this thing and just get a 4 wheeler? I am new to these things have only had this max a month. Any advice would be nice.... |
Mike Longest
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:28 pm: |
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hillbilly
In reference to your last paragraph, YES things will always
be that way with your machine, untill you restore the entire
machine. You have bought something with years of abuse and rigging.
As Richard Clark states. these machines do not take kindly to
part repairs, if you do not restore ENTIRE machine then something
will most likley always be broke, I suggest you contact Richard Clark
and do a complete tear down and restoration, as he does on this
Richard;s Relics site.
Sorry to give you bad news, it is just the truth, otherwise perhaps
you would be better to sell machine and buy something either
new or in new condition, this applies to both 4 wheelers and our real
ATV's
Mike Longest |
liflod (Liflod)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:28 pm: |
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Recreatives has changed the frame design on newer models. There are no longer slots for the transmission to drop down through. They are drilled holes the bolt goes through so there is no chance of the transmission popping out of the slots. There is also a bracket that is welded between the frame rails under the transmission. One fix that I can think of is use a piece of 1" x 1/4" x 9" long piece of steel flat bar. Drill 2 holes in it where the transmission mounting bolts go through and drill a hole at each end of the flat bar. Drill the frame to match the end holes.This way the transmission is attached to the frame by 2 orignal bolts on each side and the 2 new bolts that you put in. You will strengthen the frame and fix the oblong slot. You will probably have to fix the threads in the transmission unless the bolt just worked itself loose. If the threads are boogered, use a Heli-coil to fix it. |
Fred Sowerwine, Montana's Max dealer (Fred4dot)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:28 pm: |
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hillbilly, Your max must have had hellish abuse. Even regular chains should last for about 300 hours with proper tension. You should get about 1000 hours from the o-ring chain. I don't know why some people just get in and drive a machine until it falls apart - and then be made at the machine and the manufacturer
To fix the frame, you can fill the gap with weld and grind down to original depth and thickness.
I agree with Mike, fix it right completely or get something else. These machines work very well when maintained. If something breaks,don't just fix the broken part, find out why it broke - something major is wrong when so much needs to be repaired. |
JOHN
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:28 pm: |
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NOT ALL ATV'S HAVE THESE PROBLEMS, HAVE YOU EVER
LOOKED INTO GETTING ONE WITH HYDROSTATIC DRIVE AND
HYDRAULIC WHEEL MOTORS. THE FRONT END LOADER (BOBCAT) HAS BEEN BUILT THIS WAY FOR OVER 30 YEARS
AND THEY HAVE VERY FIEW PROBLEMS, EVEN THOUGH THEY ARE USED COMMERCIALLY SEVERAL HOURS PER DAY.
THE LAWN MOWER INDUSTRY IS FOLLOWING SUITE.
NOW THE ATV INDUSTRY IS WAKING UP, AND THESE
MACHINES AREN'T THAT MUCH HIGHER THAN THE OLDER
STYLE. |
Sam Keys
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:28 pm: |
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John
You are not being fair, comparing a junk old 6x6 to
an new 17000$ vehicle, your machine may be very good
when new, but if someone buys it and completely destroys
it, it too will need repair.
Why do'nt you have Richard Clark do a product review
on your machine? Otherwise do I hear EM2000 all over again
Sam Keys |
hillbillymax
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:28 pm: |
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Well after reading some of your responses and taking a look at the max I found some more problems. The frame down by the trans, on the right side has a big crack in it. Starting at the front mounting slot, going all the way down to the bend in the frame. (How does that happen?)
The tans looks to be ok I ran a tap through the hole to clean it up and a bolt will tighten up that is a plus.
Got the sander out and sanded all the paint off both sides of the frame to look for anymore cracks all ok. I got out the trusty welder and fixed the crack after geting everything lined up and straight. To fix the mounting holes I cut some slots in some washers and welded them to the outside of the frame and filled the gaps. I think I am going to modify the frame and box it in around where the trans mounts, has anyone done this? This should strengthen this area greatly.
Everything else looks to be ok. I will replace the chains with new ones while I have the max tore down again. Is it realy worth the cost of the o-ring chanins as compaired to regular #50 chain? We use #60 and #50 chain on some of our farm machinery and it holds up real good as long as it is kept oiled and tight. Anyone have any thoughts on this.
thanks for the help |
Fred Sowerwine, Montana's Max dealer (Fred4dot)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:28 pm: |
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hillbillymax, When the O-ring chain became an option, I was told to expect five times the life as compared to regular chain. Assuming it does not get destroyed; with reduced adjustment time, replacement time, and peace of mind, it appears to me to be cost effective.
If you have regular chain, it was probably just worn out with 265 hours (250 to 300 hours is what I expect to get from regular chain with frequent "correct tension" adjustment. A lot depends on how you use your machine. My demonstrator gets put to the test every time I take it out (going over big logs, stopping midway on a 45 degree slope and restarting a couple of times, doing several tight turns, climbing in and out of "v" gullies, etc. etc. I will only get about 200 hours on a set of regular chains. I have not put very many hours on machines with o-ring chains, but I have had machines in for service with the o-ring chains and I think they are all getting the stated five times expected life. The big thing is "not too tight and not too loose".
The crack probably came after the bolts started working loose. When chains and sprockets get out of line, they put strain on everything. I hope your experience alerts all owners to check the tranny mounting bolts for tightness (I have mentioned it as something to do a time or two). And yes, the reason I know is that I had a customer with the same problem (he was having primary drive chains breaking). I had one heck of a time getting the drive belt off, telling me that something was wrong. I can't stress enough that things usually don't just break, something is wrong to cause part failure and it often goes to or comes from other things being wrong. |
hillbillymax
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:28 pm: |
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Guy's
Thanks for all the help and insite. I boxed the frame down by the tans and put it all back together. Not sure why they don't do this at the factory. It took me about 2 hrs to sand, cut, grind, weld, and re-paint the area. Anyway put the max back together and ran it hard to see if everything would hold together. It appears to be all fixed now. Now I just need to replace the chains. I am guessing that the chains are original on the max they are O-ring chains. Except for the drive chains that I replaced, they are just regular roller chain..
I took the old o-ring chains off put them in the parts washer to get all the crud off them then soaked them in chain/bar oil overnight. They look to be in pretty good shape but I think I will replace them anyway.
The one thing I do like about this MAX is that it is very easy to work on. I can now have it tore down in about 30 min. with the engine, seats, and wheels removed.
I do have another question. When I was riding it yesterday in our fresh snow, I would spin it around to the right and the engine would start to die like it was not getting fuel. A couple of times it did die. It would start right back up once it was sitting still. Now I could spin to the left with no problems. I think the carb is sucking air not fuel when this happens. Has anyone had this problem before? 18 HP Briggs motor. |
Howard Hoover
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:28 pm: |
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Depending on wich side of the tank the fuel line is on probably the right if your spinning to the right it sounds to me like it could be throwing all the fuel over to the left side of the tank away from the fuel line and sucking air into the fuel line. |
david berger (Davidrrrd)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:28 pm: |
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naw howerd he says efect is emediet, fuel starvation during spin sugests a failur inside carb, as uncoverd fuel line wouldent efect contence of carb emeadiatly,rather staling and power loss would tend to follow after spins,ect.. |
shane forsythe (Shanefor1)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:28 pm: |
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hi dave, howard , all,
i had this problem in my car recently
sounds like crap in fuel blocking carb jets,
engine dies crap settles and the engine starts like nothing wrong.
because when you drive on bumps you stir this stuff up and a blocked jet results
or in this case do donuts to stir it up
also could be water in fuel.
clear out carb, fuel lines change filter and drain tank looking for crap /water in fuel.
shane. |
hillbillymax
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:28 pm: |
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I am guessing that the problem is in the carb. The kids have been riding the heck out of the max now that it is fixed and there is snow on the ground. With no problems except when they spin to the right. I will have to take the carb off and give it a good cleaning. The gas in the tank is good and the tank is clean. New filter and it is clean also.
Do they make oil coolers for the BS motor? |
jessiebritton (Attexpimpin)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:28 pm: |
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my 16hp vanguard did this 2 an it was cuzz it didint have enuff gas in the carb bolw i fixed this by bendin the flote up a lil bit an it worcks good it never did it agin |
doubledog (4.255.42.130)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, February 12, 2005 - 07:45 pm: |
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No spark,
just got a Max 2 from grandpa thats been sitting outside for 8-10-years. It has a koehler 2-cycle twin in it.just got the motor unstuck w/marvel mystery oil soaking in the plug holes for 24-hrs.
engine turns over fine but no spark. Ive traced the circuit & have power into & out of the motor.
of the three wires going to the black nitto box,
2 have power but only one blinks when the engine
is turned over,is this normal??I dont get any power from the nitto box to the coil when turning over. need a guru please |
doubledog (4.255.42.130)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, February 12, 2005 - 07:45 pm: |
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No spark,
just got a Max 2 from grandpa thats been sitting outside for 8-10-years. It has a koehler 2-cycle twin in it.just got the motor unstuck w/marvel mystery oil soaking in the plug holes for 24-hrs.
engine turns over fine but no spark. Ive traced the circuit & have power into & out of the motor.
of the three wires going to the black nitto box,
2 have power but only one blinks when the engine
is turned over,is this normal??I dont get any power from the nitto box to the coil when turning over. need a guru please |
carl weigle (Unregistered Guest)
Unregistered guest
Posted From: 216.93.42.251
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, October 17, 2005 - 08:46 pm: |
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looking for a discription of the "special tool" to slip under the head of the bolts for a new style t-20 band adjustment. does anybody have dimimsions of this tool? thanks |
Fred Sowerwine, Montana's Max dealer
Intermediate Member
Username: Fred4dot
Post Number: 91
Registered: 01-2005
Posted From: 216.166.168.53
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, October 20, 2005 - 02:42 pm: |
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Carl, I was told many years ago that the tool probably doesn't exist. To adjust the bands, keep the brake bar going as straight up and down as possible and turn the plunger bolts in to reduce travel. Start with the bottom bolts adjusting 1st the bottom then the top a few turns. With both plungers all the way out (use a big screw driver agaisnt the brake bar to pry them out), have about 3/16 of an inch movement of the brake bar away from the tranny case (not more than 1/4"). Make sure both laterals travel the same direction forward and the same direction back and have 6 to 7 inches of travel (with one all the way forward and one all the way back).
You should be able to turn the bolts by hand (have to slip them out of the piece of channel that holds them in place) and make sure they fit correctly in the channel when you are done (a flat side of the bolt should be on each side). If you have springs on your laterals, it is much easier to adjust the bands if you take the springs off. |
Fred Sowerwine, Montana's Max dealer
Intermediate Member
Username: Fred4dot
Post Number: 92
Registered: 01-2005
Posted From: 216.166.168.53
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, October 20, 2005 - 04:04 pm: |
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Carl, In the above post I shold have said make sure the laterals travel the same DISTANCE, not direction. What I was rtrying to say is make sure the laterals line up and both stop at the same point. |
Bryan (Unregistered Guest)
Unregistered guest
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, January 10, 2006 - 01:32 pm: |
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QUESTION: Can I adjust my T20 without using the adjustment bar? |
Bryan (Unregistered Guest)
Unregistered guest
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, January 10, 2006 - 01:33 pm: |
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I said "adjustment bar" and I was referring to the adjustment tool. |
Fred Sowerwine, Montana's Max dealer
Advanced Member
Username: Fred4dot
Post Number: 124
Registered: 01-2005
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, January 10, 2006 - 02:05 pm: |
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Read my above post #91 (and #92) on October 20,2005. It explains about the tool and how to adjust. |
Bryan (Unregistered Guest)
Unregistered guest
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, January 10, 2006 - 03:01 pm: |
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Fred....Thank you...it was right under my nose...I will print and try this when I get home.
When you say "all the way out" can you tell me more specifically what is meant? can I perform any of this procedure while the T20 is out or must it me in and connected?
Thanks for your help. |
Fred Sowerwine, Montana's Max dealer
Advanced Member
Username: Fred4dot
Post Number: 125
Registered: 01-2005
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, January 10, 2006 - 04:55 pm: |
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Bryan, The travel of the brake bar (uchannel piece that the plungers hook to) is the same regardless if the tranny is in the machine or not. If the tranny is in the machine, you can adjust by steering lateral movement and not worry aboaut the 3/16 of an inch - just make sure you have about seven inches between the top of your laterals with one all the way forward and one all the way back. By "all the way out" I am referring to the plungers, I mean all parts assembled (except the tension springs off and the hair clips that hold the bolts in, off) have the plungers both out (in normal operation, one is in and the other is out. Both plungers have to be out in order for the brake bar to have any movement in and out (it pivots in the center as top or bottom plunger goes in or out. This pivot point is where to measure the 3/16 of an inch. |
Richard Clark
Moderator
Username: Richard
Post Number: 11
Registered: 02-2005
Rating: 
Votes: 1 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, January 11, 2006 - 07:38 am: |
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6x6 Friends
I have the T-20 special tools in stock
at cheap prices. No measuring, just insert
tools and torque down. Works with all
channel T-20's
Thanks
Richard Clark
ROUTE6x6
RICHARD'S RELICS
812-944-1643 8am-6pm EST Weekdays |
(Unregistered Guest)
Unregistered guest
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, January 11, 2006 - 09:06 am: |
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Fred,
I just got my Max for Christmas from my dad, a very nice gift for sure…. Anyhow, I have been monitoring this site since then (trying to learn as much as possible) and am constantly impressed by the number of folks, like yourself, who are willing to take the time to help…. Thank you very much for the information you have provided others and me. I love working on this thing and can hardly wait to get it back on the road for some real fun. |
Bryan (Unregistered Guest)
Unregistered guest
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, January 11, 2006 - 10:28 am: |
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Question: When you are checking the thickness of your T20 bands, are you;
1. Measuring the thickness of the abrasive material AND the metal band or
2. Are you only measuring the thickness of the abrasive material?
Question: If the abrasive material is the same thickness as the metal band, is that okay? |
Fred Sowerwine, Montana's Max dealer
Advanced Member
Username: Fred4dot
Post Number: 126
Registered: 01-2005
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, January 11, 2006 - 03:39 pm: |
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Bryan, the thickness of the abrasive material is what one is interested in. I do not recall how thick it is on new bands (not very thick), but if it is as thick as the metal, you are in good shape. The important thing is to not have areas of abrasive material missing. I think there is a seam in the middle of the band, but there shouldn't be chunks missing. |
Bryan Moore
New member
Username: Bryan
Post Number: 1
Registered: 01-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, January 11, 2006 - 03:57 pm: |
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Fred,
Thank you…. The bands look good to me…. There are “slots” in the abrasive material but they must be from the manufacture because they are exact (1/2 inch) and in uniform locations.
I have the unit together and we are gonna drop that bad-boy in this evening if the weather cooperates. |
david berger
Senior Member
Username: Davidrrrd
Post Number: 242
Registered: 01-2005
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, January 11, 2006 - 04:16 pm: |
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could we call the matireal on the bands friction matireal?
abrasive is rubbing me wrong,LOL |
Bryan Moore
New member
Username: Bryan
Post Number: 2
Registered: 01-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, January 11, 2006 - 05:11 pm: |
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Can do! friction material it is. |
Bryan Moore
New member
Username: Bryan
Post Number: 3
Registered: 01-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, January 12, 2006 - 07:37 am: |
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SITUATION: I assembled my T20 last night with great pride. Filled her up with some Dexron III and spun the sprockets to spread the lubrication and relish in my accomplishments…. However, I noticed that the input portion of the drive shaft (Where the clutch connects) could be giggled a small bit up and down making me think that the bearing may be bad….
QUESTION: should there be ANY up-n-down motion in the shaft? If I pull up or push down on the shaft while rotating it, there is gear noise.
QUESTION: Does anyone know the size of the bearing and whether it can be bought locally or is it only used in the T20 at which point I will need to purchase from 6X6. I would like to buy it local so I could get it reassembled for this weekend.
QUESTION: Could it be something other than the bearing that causes this slight movement up-n-down with the shaft? |
Jerry R. Nuss, Max Dealer in Illinois
Senior Member
Username: Jerrynuss
Post Number: 202
Registered: 02-2005
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, January 12, 2006 - 01:01 pm: |
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You should be able to source the bearings locally if you have a bearing supply or NAPA store close by. Is this an older T20 or a newer version? How did the input shaft mate up with the sungears? Was there any slop in the shaft surface and where it mates up with the bushings in the carriers? How much movement do you actually have and what happens to the oil seal when you move the shaft. |
Bryan Moore
New member
Username: Bryan
Post Number: 4
Registered: 01-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, January 12, 2006 - 01:34 pm: |
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Jerry,
Thank you for your reply; I am beginning to think the movement is normal. I was able to speak with Mike (6x6) who was also very helpful. I sure am glad to know I can get the bearings locally if needed.
My T20 is pretty new (1996) and seems to be in very good condition with little ware. The sun gears fit nicely into the planetary set.
I have stood it up on the shaft and rotated it without loosing any fluid and I do not remember feeling/seeing any problems with the bushings or carriers, but I’m not sure I would know if there were a problem.
Movement: it is a very little bit….less than 1/16th inch of travel up and down…..Maybe as little as 1/32nd….it’s hard to measure. I was concerned because there was movement at all. I would have thought it should be tight as a tick. |
Jerry R. Nuss, Max Dealer in Illinois
Senior Member
Username: Jerrynuss
Post Number: 203
Registered: 02-2005
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, January 12, 2006 - 02:38 pm: |
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It sounds like it should be good to go. Set it up and run it and keep an eye on it for leaks. Check the fluid level after 25 hour maximum. |
philip w.cox
Intermediate Member
Username: Philipatmaxfour
Post Number: 80
Registered: 01-2005
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, January 12, 2006 - 08:57 pm: |
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Thanks to all the Questions from Bryan re: adjusting his T 20 and the wonderful advice from Fred Sowerwine I have today adjusted mine. On my Max IV there is another short piece of channel inside the larger channel that keeps the plunger bolt from turning. The hardest part of the job was getting that short piece of channel to go in enough to release the head of the bolt and allow it to be turned. What a big improvement! I was so far out of adjustment my knuckles were hitting the dash when I hit bumps and the laterals were touching the seat under hard breaking. Thanks for the advice Fred. W.Philip Cox |
Chris Chwaz
New member
Username: Buffalomax
Post Number: 9
Registered: 03-2005
Posted From: 66.194.59.133
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, January 19, 2006 - 07:47 pm: |
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I just put my rebuilt t-20 in my buffalo,and the steering arms are in a differnt location from when I took out the trans?The right one is bascally there were it should be ,but the left is forward about a inch inchand a half.What do you think got change ? Is there any set rules on the length of the rods going from the bottom of the levers to the trans.I dont know if the left is the correct length or the right.It does drive good,I went threw alot of differnt muddy spots snowy spots,hills etc.today,sooo? |
philip w.cox
Intermediate Member
Username: Philipatmaxfour
Post Number: 86
Registered: 01-2005
Posted From: 216.208.194.155
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, January 19, 2006 - 10:59 pm: |
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Chris, there are threaded adjusters at the bottom of your laterals . decide which lateral is in the most comfortable position for you and then adjust the other lateral to match. w. philip cox |
Fred Sowerwine, Montana's Max dealer
Advanced Member
Username: Fred4dot
Post Number: 127
Registered: 01-2005
Posted From: 216.166.168.53
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, January 20, 2006 - 12:08 am: |
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Chris, It is always dangerous to make statements without knowing all the information. You didn't say what the rebuild entailed or who did it. I will guess that you only had one side worked on (the left) and that it wasn't adjusted properly. Your T-20 will work OK regardless of travel as long as the bands can fully engage, but the bands will wear differently depending on how the brake bar is positioned (they should be as straight up and down as possible). You didn't say, but is the left lateral the same proportional distance different when the sticks are pulled all the way back?
If what I have guessed is correct, you need to adjust your tranny bands (the left side). You can either buy the adjusting tools from Richard or measure the amount of travel of the brake bar from the tranny case and have it at 3/16th of an inch.
In the event that your bands are adjusted correctly and one set is thinner than the other, you can adjust the alignment of the laterals with the adjuster that connects the linkage rod at the lateral. Assuming you didn't change your linkage, the only reason for the difference has to be from the tranny rebuild (or a previous adjustment from a previous rebuild). I suppose to be on the safe side, you could measure both connecting rods and see if there is a difference there. If there is a difference, I will measure a set here and let you know what the usual length is. I have a 1995 Buffalo demonstrator on the floor. |
Eddie Beddingfield (Unregistered Guest)
Unregistered guest
Posted From: 207.117.33.134
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, January 20, 2006 - 02:02 pm: |
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Fred, Do you mean a '05' demonstrator? |
Fred Sowerwine, Montana's Max dealer
Advanced Member
Username: Fred4dot
Post Number: 128
Registered: 01-2005
Posted From: 216.166.168.53
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, January 20, 2006 - 05:12 pm: |
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No Eddie, I meant a 1995. It's just like an Argo - too heavy to get the job done and too expensive when compared to a Max IV -- so it sits unsold on my show room floor. But it serves it's purpose; customers can look at it and not use it as an excuse "If you only had a Buffalo, I would buy one - I want the best (meaning most expensive)."
And you can tell from the above why I don't have an "05. Actually I have several "not current" machines in stock. I only order new machine now when I have them sold. I'm not the best business man around, but I do give pretty good deals. |
philip w.cox
Intermediate Member
Username: Philipatmaxfour
Post Number: 88
Registered: 01-2005
Posted From: 216.209.98.155
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, January 20, 2006 - 05:36 pm: |
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Chris- No question that Fred is right ,sorry for the poor advice, do what Fred says and you won,t go wrong. Fred thanks for helping, I should have asked questions and gotten more info. W Philip Cox |
Chris Chwaz
Junior Member
Username: Buffalomax
Post Number: 10
Registered: 03-2005
Posted From: 66.194.59.146
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, January 20, 2006 - 07:20 pm: |
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Thanks guys I will look at it tommorrow.I got the buffalo to do work around the farm,this thing can really move alot of weight,feed hay even corn wagons,I would pull with my 51hp diesel tractor.But the big use I have for it is in the woods bringing the maple sap in .There alot of snow ,then mud and snow mix in the spring,I got tru tracks on it then.It is a pricey vechile,but I got it at a price that was far less then a max II with 70hours on it.Thanks again. |
Brett Grams
New member
Username: Brettly01
Post Number: 1
Registered: 05-2013
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, May 19, 2013 - 06:58 pm: |
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new to the 6x6 world have an older model max II with a t20 skid steer tranny it wont go into reverse is there an adjustment to the bands or do I have to do something internal? |
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