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Route 6x6 Discussion Board * Shop Talk: Tech Tips and Q&A section * Briggs 18 question (temp) < Previous Next >

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Bruce

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Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:30 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

I recently installed a briggs Vanguard 18 horse twin in my coot. It runs GREAT!! Question I have is how hot should this engine run. What is the normal operating temp of this engine? Mine seems hot, but then I am sitting right on top of the engine. It is hot at the exhaust headers,( which is only normal) but, since I have the engine tucked in under the seat, I am wondering just how hot it ought to be. I have a oil temp connection on the engine that I have not yet hooked up, but when I do, I would like to monitor the temp to see if it is running at "normal". I just don't know what "normal" is.

Thanks
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ct.coot

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Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:30 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

bruce:I have the same problem with the vanguard in my coot as a matter of fact my wife got blisters on her butt from the engine heat at last years humphrey run .she was not a happy camper and when shes not happy,im not happy.ha ha ha
i modified the exaust to a larger diameter pipe and rejeted the carb.this seems to help a lot with the overheathing problem.i also made a different bench seat for it out of expanded metal and plan to put small bucket seats in the front to let the engine heat escape.i have seen a briggs factory oil cooler on a 23hp model and see no reason that it wouldnt work on a 16 or 18hp model.
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Alan Harper

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Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:30 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Mine was running too rich and the exhaust plumbing was putting out unbelievable amounts of heat until I got it leaned out. I had an oil soaked air filter. Am considering insulating the exhaust but that will likely be next Spring, Winter is pretty much here. I need to replace the leaky rusty flexible tubing anyway, would like to have a bigger muffler also. What oil temperature sender did you use and where did you put it? Mine came with an oil pressure switch that I wired up to a buzzer.
Thanks,
Alan

http://www.industrial-magic.com/coot.html
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Attex Bob

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Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:30 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Bruce: I like to see oil temp no higher than 200F. You can run it between 200F to 250F but it's not good. If you can keep it below 200F so much the better. You can get oil too cold in a water cooled engine but I don't think that is possible in an air cooled. Maybe in some place like Alaska (Diesel can freeze there!!!) but I don't know. If you have a cooling problem I would take CT's advice and get the oil cooler. You can also get some heat sheilds from places like Summit racing, that would work great for your problem. (Cooked buns are no fun)!!!!!
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Ian

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Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:30 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

I just swapped a crank on a new Vanguard 20hp. Followed the book, lined up the timing marks, but with the plugs installed I can turn the engine by hand and it is making compression, but it's bleading out so fast that I can rotate the motor smoothly. It should give lots of back pressure, at each compression, but it's not.

I didn't change the valve adjustment, and they are moving up and down. I know on the camshaft, there are some compression release balls, but I didn't change anything (that I know of)when re-assembling the motor that should affect valve operation.

The obvious stuff I checked (I think), like the head bolts, plugs tight, etc. but I could be overlooking something?

Anyone have any ideas?

Thanks,
Ian @ buyerhaliscak@aol.com
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Robert C Pickerd (Tugger)

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Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:30 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

better check on that 250 degree oil temp with the manufacturer or some other knowledgeable source. On the BIG diesels the engineer tells me that you might as well have water in the crankcase if the oil is above 270 degrees. Above that temp it breaks down and does no good at all.
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dakota

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Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:30 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

most small engines have a compresson release engineered into the cam shaft . makes for easier starting by recoil.lots of manufactures have eleminated this and gone with strait electric start only. i have been out of the small engine thing for 3 years now , and was never a briggs dealer. so I'm not sure if the vangard has this built in . have you tried to start and run the engine? I have done this exact same job on a honda v-twin and never had this problem . did forget a pushrod once . the amazing thing was how smooth the engine still ran , just couldn't run the blade into concrete and cut . Anyhow getting back to the subject the faster the engine spins the more compression it will have . so if starting with the recoil you don't destroy you wrist tring to pull the engine over , but once it pops it will speed up to ide speed and be just fine.

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