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johnjr

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Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:28 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

I am new to the Argo machine and planning on purchasing a 8x8 Argo. However I would like to know how many hours you can get on an average engine before rebuilding.
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ISAAC EISENMAN (Tropicjungleboy)

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Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:28 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

HEY JOHNJR: life expectation for aatv engine (time for rebuild it) depends directly on the follow parameters:

* work engine on proper temperature range
* oil quality and proper filter replacement
* quality of fuel

TEMPERATURE:
* avoid "load" engine prior to warm up
* avoid overheating the engine by improper cooling air circulation
* proper air/gas mixture
* proper air filter care/replacement
OIL QUALITY:
* proper viscocity according to ambiance temperature
* oil change + oil filter as schedule by manufacter
* kind of oil (mineral,mixture,synthetic)
FUEL
* water/alcohol "oxide" (wear)internal parts sooner.

if proper care take on your engine you should go over 1000 working hours (1500 if only synthetic were used) before meet overhaul parts dealer......

and 1000 working hours means lots of bouncing time!!!...
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Tom Pike

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Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:28 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

I've got a 96 Argo response and it seems to be having some carbarator trouble. It won't idle without the choke being pulled out. It also cycles between hessitation and surging at low rpm. I treated this with carbarator cleaner in the fuel and it went a way shortly and I continued the treatment but it has reappeared and is getting worse. My argo goes for 2-3 weeks between uses and I tend to keep very little gas in it so that I can keep fresh gas in the tank. I use Carb cleaner lately and gas stabalizer. What's my best course of action.

Tom
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argogeru

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Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:28 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Tom,
Pull the jet needle in your carberator and make sure it is clean. carb cleaner will not always clean the jet out. tom manning had that same problem at the hespins ride and their was a small piece of dirt in the jet needle. Pull the bolt on the front right of the carb and the whole air filter assebley and it is a little bronze colored bolt that goes into the bowl. it takes a flat head screwdriver with a 90' bend in it. I am betting that is your problem. Also, change your fuel filter.
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Tom Pike

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Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:28 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Thanks. Yesterday I tried one of those expensive
(in fuel) carb cleaners that has just magically appeared on the shelves lately. I usually avoid stuff like that but I wanted to turn this thing around before I could get the thing started. I didn't get a chance to take it for a good run but just warming it up it seemed to improve it considerably. Idled pretty nice in the end. I'll take a look at the needle. Sounds like one of those "great to know" things.

Thanks again
Tom
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ISAAC EISENMAN (Tropicjungleboy)

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Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:28 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

if add two-cycle engine oil on 100:1 ( about 1 oz per gallon) on your 4 cycle engine gas tank your engine will work better and last longer due to "extra" lubrication factor on carb float needle, valves steams, cylinder wall and less carbon on combustion chamber not to mention no rust feature on exaust line...excellent for seasonal engines to avoid parts sticks......

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