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Johan
Intermediate Member
Username: Hammr
Post Number: 62
Registered: 12-2008
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, September 13, 2010 - 10:10 am: | 
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Hey folks, just bought 40 feet of 50-2 Tsubaki chain and am about to replace every inch of it on my 92 Argo Magnum. Just wanted to ask anyone who has done this if there are any tips or tricks that you learned while replacing your set that may help. Usually after you do a job like this is when you realize that certain steps would have been easier if you had done something or other differently, so I am hoping to learn from your experience. Any or all comments apreciated. |
Jeff bar
Advanced Member
Username: Argo8x8
Post Number: 206
Registered: 03-2005
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, September 13, 2010 - 10:19 am: |
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My best tip is to do one chain at a time, note that each chain is same on right and left side
Jeff Bar |
Johan
Intermediate Member
Username: Hammr
Post Number: 63
Registered: 12-2008
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, October 04, 2010 - 10:36 am: |
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I am starting this and I noticed yet again that the allen screws with large washers in the end of the drive shafts do not seem to be flush with the chassis. Some of them are, some aren't, and the shafts protrude inside the machine about .25 or so. Not all of them, just a few. Seems to me that the chains are in line, and the gears are correctly seated on the shaft with the set screw. Can anyone tell me if they should all be flush on the inside or not? |
Erich Kelter
Advanced Member
Username: Fisherman
Post Number: 152
Registered: 11-2005
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, October 07, 2010 - 08:23 pm: |
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Johan: I'm not 100% sure if it works the same as my Bigfoot, however, if the outter and inner bearing sets is not located correctly on the axle shaft,(closer to the rim), then the shaft will protrude more to the inside. All six of my washers sit flush. |
Johan
Intermediate Member
Username: Hammr
Post Number: 64
Registered: 12-2008
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, October 08, 2010 - 09:56 am: |
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Thanks Erich, I am reinstalling them all flush. I figure they were just installed wrong, along with many other things I am finding upon further inspection. Lots of new bearings as well as updating the inner flanges to ones with grease fittings. Going to fit the chains on tonight! |
Erich Kelter
Advanced Member
Username: Fisherman
Post Number: 156
Registered: 11-2005
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, October 08, 2010 - 06:25 pm: |
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One small point, I know in my manual(don't know why but) it says to install the open end of the clip that secures the links towards the rear when replacing the chains and joining links. That's with the link in the chain above the sprockets, not below. |
Johan
Intermediate Member
Username: Hammr
Post Number: 65
Registered: 12-2008
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, October 12, 2010 - 01:25 pm: |
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Erich, just have to put two more chains on, after replacing a shaft which incidently was one that was protruding into the unit. The reason I think is that the part of the shaft that sits in the inner bearing was worn and no longer round. When I replaced it with correct installation the problem became apparent.
To your statement, I think the reason the clips are installed that way is if there is crap or ice in the lower tray the clips will not be pulled out while the chains are rotating forward.
So people know, it took almost all of 40' of RC50-2 to do an entire Magnum 8x8. I think there is only a foot or maybe two left. Another important note is that expect every tool you own to become greasy. |
christopher j Davison
Member
Username: Chris_davison
Post Number: 48
Registered: 06-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, December 11, 2010 - 01:13 pm: |
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You are right in your assumption of the master link clip the closed end always moves forward so nothing can rip it off. Another trick is to get a pair of needle nose vise grips and put a curved notch at the end of both top and bottom jaws this can be used to pull the chain tight for master link installation. You can use bailing wire also inbetween the links to pull it together. Always count the links in the length and write it down so you can cut the chains to the right length every time you replace them. |
Johan
Intermediate Member
Username: Hammr
Post Number: 66
Registered: 12-2008
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, December 13, 2010 - 12:41 pm: |
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Right on Chris! I used cable ties but in most cases I didn't need to hold the ends together at all if you put the links onto one of the gears to insert the master link. The modified needle nose vise grips would have been good for the number two chains, (from the front) on both sides. I found these to be the only challenging ones to try to get the master links into. The others were a non issue really. Did a lot of cursing on those two let me tell you. |
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