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adam dittmer
New member
Username: Ditty22

Post Number: 1
Registered: 02-2010

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Posted on Thursday, February 18, 2010 - 06:55 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Hello guys im new to the forum here and have never owned an aatv ever so i have a few questions and i could use any advice i can get. I already own a yamaha grizzly 660 and would like to have something new to play around with. I live in minnesota and spend most of all my summers trail riding, camping up north then in the fall i bow hunt grouse hunt ect and would like to have another atv to use and have another rider with also. Im not looking at buying new and i would like to spend as little as i have to so an aatv that needs some work im ok with. What are the better companys, models an year range of 6x6 or 8x8's to buy used? I have seen some range from $500 to $8000, im guessing that most of the 6x6's for sale under $1000 are not running and need alot of work? how hard are these things to work on? What should i look for when trying to buy a used one?

Thanks for any help guys. Adam
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Erich Kelter
Advanced Member
Username: Fisherman

Post Number: 138
Registered: 11-2005

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Posted on Thursday, February 18, 2010 - 08:24 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Oh boy, you'll probably get a bit of GM/Ford/Ram responses when it comes to each owners idea of what's better. Each of the machines have their good and bad points, something that also has to be taken into account is availability of parts locally. No point in buying something where you have to get parts from Kookamunga. If you go with an ARGO, I would highly recommend at least going with the models that have splined axle shafts,(around mid 90's) the older ones use roll pins to attach the axles to the sprockets, if one shears the rest will go, usually when you are 20 miles from Timbucktoo, and trust me, they are a beatch to remove, especially the front ones. Take a look at the wiring under the hood, some look like a madman threw in a handfull of coloured spagetti, no fun to try and fix that. Jack the machine up, and watch while the tires are rotating, it will give you a good idea whether or not the axles are bent,(tires wobbling around like an egg). General cleanliness is also a good indicator of how well an owner takes care of his kit, if there's chickens building a nest in there..nuff said. Check the primary and secondary clutches, see how well they engage and whether there's any radial floppyness. Check the oil seals on the transmission, see if theres oil leaking out behind the brake discs. Check the sideways flex of the chains, they are not cheap. I bought a 2001, only needed an inner and outer bearing on the center axle, (6X6). Only other thing was a real good carb clean up. Good luck
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gregg g
Intermediate Member
Username: Brushcutter

Post Number: 54
Registered: 09-2007

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Posted on Thursday, April 08, 2010 - 07:53 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

I won't get into the which is better melee either, but as Erich said, whatever you go with, try to get a machine with splined axles, which will narrow your choices to either a newer Argo or Max. I currently own 2 Hustlers- a 950 and a 980, they both are good machines, but their axles are weak due to their bolt through the axle/sprocket sleeves design. I have broken the front left axle 3 times due to this "defect". I welded and turned it twice, but opted to replace it the last time.

Another thing to consider is: how mechanically inclined are you? These machines require a CONSIDERABLE amount of maintenance, WAY more than a quad of any kind. Not trying to disuade you by any means, but there have been a LOT of folks that thought they wanted one of these after seeing the u-tube vids, and after buying one realized they were in way over their heads, became disillusioned and sold them in disgust.

Now, having said that, if you are fairly tool handy, and are willing to put the extra effort into your machines, and have a burning desire to own a REAL mud machine; then these are the machines to have!

My and I say MY rule of thumb for buying one of these is: If it don't run, and I can't drive BEFORE I buy, the MOST I will pay is $400! If it will run you will have a better idea of what you are buying, and can dicker over the price. This comes from having built more than a couple machines from the ground up. I paid $150 for my 950 and now have over $4000 in it, not counting my labor! Cheap doesn't mean inexpensive with these things. There is just no way of knowing what is wrong with a machine you can't run/drive(and sometimes even when you can)!

My suggestion is to spend a BUNCH of reading time, before buying anything. There is a wealth of info on the web and you will buy smarter if you do the research. My next suggestion is to buy a machine that will run, but needs "a little work", for a good price. How do you know if it's a good price? See the first suggestion.

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