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Cody Ridgeway
New member
Username: The6x6kid

Post Number: 1
Registered: 10-2007

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Posted on Monday, October 08, 2007 - 08:45 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

I just got a 1987 Max ll. I,m in middle school and saved money from working and buying, fixing and selling lawn tractors, gokarts and 4wheeler. My Max has a "pancake" Briggs 18hp. It runs pretty good except for an occasional backfire(adjust carb). One problem is the tranny is hard to shift from forward to reverse and back without wiggling the sticks and burping the throttle. The label on the tranny reads SKID STEER A-6645. Also the Max doesnt seem to get up to speed(25-30)as quick as I think it should. My dad and me are going to open it up tonight and check and see if the "torque converters" are working properly. I ordered an information(owners, tranny manual etc.) from RI today. Any help with these problems would be greatly appreciated.
COdy
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Jerry Nuss - Illinois MAX dealer
Senior Member
Username: Jerrynuss

Post Number: 562
Registered: 02-2005

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Posted on Monday, October 08, 2007 - 11:00 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

When shifting try doing it right before coming to a complete stop. If stopped rock the machine back and forth. Remember to pull the control levers back to the middle position.

The belt could be worn, the sheaves could be worn, there could be oil or grease on the belt, the clutches could need lubricating.
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Cody Ridgeway
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Username: The6x6kid

Post Number: 2
Registered: 10-2007

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Posted on Tuesday, October 09, 2007 - 01:43 am:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Jerry thanks for getting back to me. When me & dad looked at it tonight the right side chains from the tranny and chain down to the main drive chains were very tight. We loosened them up and the left side seemed very loose so we tightened them up. Once we get the chains dialed in what is the recommended time to adjust/check chains? Also sprayed out the driven clutch shaft with brake cleaner and then drippled a little PBblaster on the shaft and raamps. Checked to see that the throttle was opening all the way and adjusted the governor spring to the max. Adjusted carb(richened) and the back fire seems to about be gone.I(we) dont think it is still reving high enough(4000rpm). My dad said he will have to load it up and bring to the local small engine shop to hook up their rpm meter to check this out. Took apart front foot brakes and cleaned them and the drums since they had gotten grease on them from the chains. They seem to work now because before they didnt work at all. The free play down on the drive belt is about 1 1/2" to 1 5/8". The belt looks to be OK. To late to check it out now. I will have to try it out tomorrow after school.
Cody
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Jerry Nuss - Illinois MAX dealer
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Username: Jerrynuss

Post Number: 563
Registered: 02-2005

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Posted on Tuesday, October 09, 2007 - 02:21 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Chains that are too tight from the transmission to the jack shafts will make it hard to shift. I check chains between 20 and 30 hours of use but it really depends on the conditions and environment. The wetter and dirtier the more frequent the checks. I've seen the go over 10 hjours without needing adjustment. The cleaner you keep the tub the longer everything will last. That may be a litle too much freeplay on the belt. When you have it jacked up off the ground then rev it do the belt travel to the extremes of the clutch and torque converter?

Most people use silicone spray to lube them.
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L.A. Philip Osborn
Advanced Member
Username: Roadwolf

Post Number: 125
Registered: 02-2006

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Posted on Thursday, October 11, 2007 - 02:42 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Cody

You may want to consider Richards shift improvement kit for Maxs

Phillip Osborn LA
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Jerry Nuss - Illinois MAX dealer
Senior Member
Username: Jerrynuss

Post Number: 568
Registered: 02-2005

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Posted on Thursday, October 11, 2007 - 07:53 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

I did a chain adjustment on a 2003 Max II 600T today. It has 134 hours and this was the first adjustment to the chains. The Max is in very good shape so maybe the hours are inflated due to leaving the key on. The bearings were almost dry and the transmission fluid was dark so I doubt it got any servicing. The o-ring chains look great with a lot more life. I read my previous post I meant to type 100 hours without needing to be tightened.
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MO Max & Argo Dealer
Advanced Member
Username: Brandon_price

Post Number: 249
Registered: 01-2005

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Posted on Thursday, October 11, 2007 - 10:31 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Jerry, that hour meter is probably accurate. The o-ring chains can easily do over 100 hours without service. The Max IV's chains seems to do even better. I have a '02 20hp Max II (the one I'm riding on the 27th). It has 158 hours on the meter. The chains and bearings were always lubed, but I just adjusted the chains for the first time. The four short chains were a little loose but nothing bad. I also recently serviced an '03 Max IV 18hp that had 228 hours. I did the first chain adjustment that vehicle had seen. The chains were lubed and taken care of but were still not real loose. The o-ring chains seem to be lowering the Max's maintenance considerably.
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Dave Evans
Intermediate Member
Username: Dozer

Post Number: 64
Registered: 01-2001

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Posted on Friday, October 12, 2007 - 10:55 am:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

My Max IV with O ring chain purchased from route66 has been very good too, after the first chain adjustment (due to worn sprockets) it has required no more work at all. Well worth the price, I was at first hard to convince but the chain is great, I do not know how many hours but a lot.

Dave Evans
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Cody Ridgeway
New member
Username: The6x6kid

Post Number: 3
Registered: 10-2007

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Posted on Friday, October 12, 2007 - 10:15 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Sorry for not getting back sooner. I had ear surgery on thursday and back to school today. On wed night of this week me and dad played around with the governor spring. We thought it sounded like it was reving higher. Today I was finally able to take it for a ride. It seems to be getting up to speed faster. Also I'm able to shift it easier using some of the ideas that I was given. When my dad came home from work I was giving it a workout around our place. Dad said it seemed to be performing better and I was handling it very well. A different question I have is about roll bars. To keep my mom from getting gray hair she wants me to get a roll bar. What roll bar set up is good. I see alot of ones that are attached to angle iron on the body seams. Also is the factory a good set up being that it is only secured to the frame with a clip on each side? My dad is a great welder and has built quite a few race cars(cages, frames etc). A race car fabricating shop that my dad has used over the years for tubing and bending is just down the road so making a rollbar is not that big a deal. What do any of you recommend? Seat belts also? Oh by the way I received the package from RI with the manuals, will have to read this weekend. Thanks for the advice so far.
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Jerry Nuss - Illinois MAX dealer
Senior Member
Username: Jerrynuss

Post Number: 570
Registered: 02-2005

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Posted on Friday, October 12, 2007 - 10:32 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

If you have the resource a full cage would be very nice. It is common to use angle iron and mount to the upper body using the existing holes that attach the tub to the body. Be careful about it getting too heavy. Thy Max II is very stable and I rarely see them roll yet they will tip over on very steep climbs or side slopes. If you build a cage put in seat belts. The cage and roll bar have helped me lots of times when I get it high centered. The cage acts as a lever and I can grab it and rock the machine to the side to get the tires on the ground. using sensible driving is paramount, you should be able to avoid a roll or tip by slipping the transmission and knowing what is in front of you. Glad to read it is running better.

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