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Route 6x6 Discussion Board * Shop Talk: Tech Tips and Q&A section * Max II bearing set screw < Previous Next >

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Timothy M. Potter
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Username: Patroldogk9

Post Number: 7
Registered: 06-2006
Posted From: 207.241.135.202

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Posted on Monday, March 12, 2007 - 07:23 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

In an attempt to free a bearing set screw, after applying liquid wrench and letting it set overnight, I broke a socket allen wrench off in the hole. I'm pretty sure the bearing is shot and was only attempting to loosen set screw in order to try to snug up the outer bearing until I could replace it very soon. What would you guys do? I have no experience with these bearings or knowledge about these bearings other than what I read from this "board". I'm only guesing that I would drill out set screw and attempt to rotate the bearing by tapping on it or griping it with my big set of channel locks or pipe wrench and replace with new bearing. I read that Richard has some reasonably, good quality bearings in stock and actualy viewed them on this site. I would appreciate all advice. I'm going to replace my chains and "some" sprockets shortly and have already installed Richard's chain tensioners that I would highly recommend!
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Jerry R. Nuss
Senior Member
Username: Jerrynuss

Post Number: 496
Registered: 02-2005
Posted From: 71.244.211.161

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Posted on Monday, March 12, 2007 - 07:56 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Sounds like a good plan, you can drill the set screw out or even cut the bearing collar to the set screw with a rotary tool. Do you have the bearing with the two set screws on a flange or do you have th bearing with a cam type collar for fixing the bearing in place? Either way you need to get the set screw out.

Don't get to upset on getting the set screw out. I have to drill about 95% of them. Do you have the axle assebly out of the machine so you can work on it in a vise or on a bench? The sprocket set screws cause me more trouble than the bearing set screws because I can't get the axle out with the sprocket on. On some machines I just cut the axle out and replace it because of cost and time effectiveness. On Argo machines I often just cut the axle and throw it away. I don't do this with Max axles because they are about twice as expensive axles. The new snap ring splined axles are really sweet and avoid the set screw problem.
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liflod
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Username: Liflod

Post Number: 131
Registered: 01-2005
Posted From: 24.3.232.162

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Posted on Monday, March 12, 2007 - 08:37 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

I always take a punch that just fits in the allen head socket and smack it with a hammer a few times. This method has not let me down for taking out the set screws. Clean out the head really good and definatly use a allen head socket wrench (not the L shaped tools) Smack the socket into the set screw so it in as far as it will go. You may try to tighten it a little and then loosen it.
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Timothy M. Potter
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Username: Patroldogk9

Post Number: 8
Registered: 06-2006
Posted From: 207.241.135.202

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Posted on Monday, March 12, 2007 - 08:47 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

This is a 96' Max II: I'm not sure what I have by your description. I have what I would describe as a "donut" shaped collar bearing with two holes, but only one appears to have a set screw in it, is that what you call a "cam" collar? I think axle and bearing with locking collar go trough the body flange. I haven't remove the axle yet, but will shortly. Do you just evenly and gently tap the new bearing and collar on or do you slide bearing and collar on or rotate on and this slides through the body flange? What do you do for out of round sprocket bolt holes? I know that Richard recommends his cup washers, I found out that you can use a larger bolt without problems. Sounds like you do alot of this kind of thing! I bought this machine last summer and have been on a learning curve every since. It has a new 18hp vandguard, rebuilt T2 and been rewired. I was so impressed with all that, I didn't know there was anything else to worry about or at least I hoped,Ha, Ha. I've put Richard's chain tensioner's(which I like), throttle cable, come winter put wheel extensions and TruTrax on it. I'm going to put new chains on it, that are needed badly and going to have to replace some of the sprockets. Sometimes I feel overwhelmed with it all, but I'm a stubborn "getting older" fart! It's hard to beat getting back into my woods, where I can't get with my 4x4 truck, and hauling out firewood in my 6' Otter sled.
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david berger
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Username: Davidrrrd

Post Number: 511
Registered: 01-2005
Posted From: 70.19.206.78

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Posted on Tuesday, March 13, 2007 - 10:18 am:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

TIMOTHY YOU CAN ALSO EXPAND THE COLLER WITH SOME BLOW'S FROM A SMALL SLEGE HAMMER,
TRICKY ON A MACHINE BUT A PUNCH OR STEAL OBJECT OF SOME KIND MIGHT GET THE BLOW TO THE COLLER,
YOU MOVE THE COLLER ARROUND A FEW TIMES TO MORE EVENLY EXPAND THE COLLER AND THEN IT MAY LOOSEN.

WORKS BEST IF YOU HAVE THE AXEL AND OUTER BEARING OUT OF THE MACHINE, I HAVE STRUCK THEM ON A VICE AND THEN REMOVED THE EXPANDED LOOSE COLLER WITH A SPANNER WRENCH.
WORST CASE YOU MIGHT SHATTER THE INNER RACE ON THE BEARING.
BIGG DEAL AS YOUR GOING TO REPLACE IT ANYWAY.
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Timothy M. Potter
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Username: Patroldogk9

Post Number: 9
Registered: 06-2006
Posted From: 207.241.135.202

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Posted on Tuesday, March 13, 2007 - 02:35 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

O.K. I've got the axle out and now can get the bearing collar off the axle now, my question now, is the bearing have to be pressed out of the bearing flange or can I carefully tap this out? The bearing flange, with the bearing are still on the chassis/body.
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Jerry R. Nuss
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Username: Jerrynuss

Post Number: 500
Registered: 02-2005
Posted From: 71.244.211.161

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Posted on Tuesday, March 13, 2007 - 02:56 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

I want to make sure I understand you correctly. You removed the axle from the machine and the bearing and flange is still in/on the machine.

Did you remove the three bolts that hold the flanges together?
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Timothy M. Potter
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Username: Patroldogk9

Post Number: 10
Registered: 06-2006
Posted From: 207.241.135.202

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Posted on Tuesday, March 13, 2007 - 04:34 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

No, I haven't removed the three bolts and in turn the bearing flange(bearing flangette) with the bearings, they are still attached to the body/chassis. After removing axle/sprocket bolt, I pulled the axle on through the sprocket, through the bearing(that is inside the bearing flange that is secured with the three bolts to the body/chassis) and on out. The bearing collar, with two set screws(only one was present) is still on the axle, but I will be able to removed that fairly easy now. My question was, is it necessary to press the bearing out of the bearing flange(flangette according to diagram*%$) or can I just gently tap it out, or should I remove the three bolts then press the bearing out or tap it out? Thanks for your patience guys!!
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david berger
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Username: Davidrrrd

Post Number: 513
Registered: 01-2005
Posted From: 72.85.143.149

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Posted on Tuesday, March 13, 2007 - 05:10 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

take the three nuts off the bolts and pull the outermost flanget half off the body,
the bearing is loosely held between the halfs and will be easy to remove by hand, you should try to leave the half a flanget that is agenced the body in place if you can to be sure you can keep all the holes in alignment.
in the event a previous owner installed them with the bolt head outside and the nuts inside don't worry it's not inposable to chaing it arround, myself i put carrage bolts threw fron the inside on my maxII so i only needed one wrench to work on it.

if theres two holes and only one set screw you might have a cam lock coller on your axel that you can slide or press off.
it may have worked loose or the locking serfice on the bearing may have broken.
you can look on your bearing to see if the inner race faceing the coller when it was in your machine has a little chip out of it.
if there is a broken spot on it you have your answer, then a new locking coller and bearing are in order.
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Jerry R. Nuss
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Username: Jerrynuss

Post Number: 501
Registered: 02-2005
Posted From: 71.244.211.161

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Posted on Tuesday, March 13, 2007 - 05:10 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

You should be able to remove the three nuts on the bolts. Then the outer flanger should come off. Then the bearing should come out. The bearing is held in by the flanges.
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Timothy M. Potter
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Username: Patroldogk9

Post Number: 11
Registered: 06-2006
Posted From: 207.241.135.202

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Posted on Tuesday, March 13, 2007 - 07:39 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Thanks So Much Guys! If I had removed the bolts from the flange, I would have discovered there was "two" halves to the flange and that would have answered my question! If that don't make me feel like a dufuss and gives me a chance to laugh at my selve and that we all need to do from time to time!!!
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Jerry R. Nuss
Senior Member
Username: Jerrynuss

Post Number: 502
Registered: 02-2005
Posted From: 71.244.211.161

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Posted on Tuesday, March 13, 2007 - 08:35 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Tim,
I was actually impressed you got the axle out by sliding it through the bearing! It should go back together fairly easy for you. I'm happy you got it out.

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