    
Ram D. Mahajan
New member
Username: Pharkas
Post Number: 5
Registered: 12-2006
Posted From: 129.44.218.108
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, February 24, 2007 - 12:39 pm: | 
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I have an '86 MaxII with a 16hp Tecumseh. The motor starts and runs perfect. However the hole on the motor where the exhaust manifold attaches to is stipped of threads. So I have a flat alluminum surface with an exhaust hole on the motor with no apparent way of attaching the manifold. I brought the machine to a max dealer who is also a small engine shop. They retapped the hole and were able to get a couple threads to hold a pipe. They then used some sort of high temperature epoxy to hold it in place. With the engine vibration this broke off after less than an hour on the trail. I brought the machine back and they said there is nothing else they can do. They were uncomfortable opening the hole anymore to put a larger pipe. They said maybe I could find someone who welds alluminum who could weld an alluminum pipe to the hole but they said they were not sure if that would hurt the motor. I ended up building a bracket attached to the max frame that loosely holds the manifold pipe in the opening of the motor. This obviously is a bubble gum fix for now. What are my options? If the motor didn't run so awsome I'd just fork out the money and switch it out. Short of that what else can I do? |
Rob Sandera
Intermediate Member
Username: Rob_sandera
Post Number: 57
Registered: 03-2005
Posted From: 4.91.129.189
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, February 24, 2007 - 01:23 pm: |
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Your probably not going to hili-arc it as that creates tremendous heat and you would probably need and engine rebuild then and possibly some machining to correct warped surfaces. If it was hili-arc-ed the only way to do it right is mill out a clean hole and chamfer and weld in a new sleeve or plug to re-tap. You need clean surfaces to weld aluminum good they cant be contaminated with carbon etc. You sure that isn’t a cast iron block?
No epoxy etc will hold up You could try getting a steel insert repair kit or having one made and tapping up to a metric size for the insert and loctite it in with green which is permanent. If you can fix it screw in a stub with a cupler so from now on your removing from the coupling not the block. Your other options are short block or similar to what you have done now small tapped flange and heavy duty bracket to bear the support. Occasionally an engine comes up on ebay fairly cheap.
If you want to save what you got and it is aluminum, I have one friend in Michigan who would be the man to do a top notch job on the block. I could call and ask if he would do it and give you his number. He welds in Briggs lifter valleys etc so is good. Generally when you do these operations though you do a fresh valve job and maybe surface the deck of the block a few thousands to make sure its flat. He is equipped for all that. I do have a 16 overhead valve engine out here needing checked out and rebuilt I may decide to sell. It had a rattle in it in the head. |
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