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Borton
New member
Username: Borton
Post Number: 1
Registered: 12-2006
Posted From: 69.134.159.169
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, January 04, 2007 - 09:06 pm: | 
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I can't remove the flywheel from a 1970's Kohler 440 2-stroke engine. I removed the nut and washer over the shaft and used two different flywheel pullers but no luck. Sprayed some BP Blast, used some heat and even tapped the shaft to dislodge it.
There's a rectangular slot in the flywheel for a key but not a slot in the shaft and I didn't see any key to remove.
Is there an additional nut or screw inside the flywheel that has to be removed for the flywheel to come off? |
Josh
New member
Username: Mccastlej
Post Number: 5
Registered: 12-2006
Posted From: 24.11.126.201
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, January 05, 2007 - 01:26 am: |
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What kind of puller are you using? Usually you have to apply pressure with a puller, and then smack it hard with a hammer to get things to come loose. |
Borton
New member
Username: Borton
Post Number: 2
Registered: 12-2006
Posted From: 69.134.159.169
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, January 05, 2007 - 06:16 am: |
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One is a harmonic balance puller that has three openings in a clover pattern at one end and a single opening at the other end.
The second puller is for steering wheels and uses two bolts.
The flywheel has a closely cropped three bolt pattern that I can't use because it's too small for the harmonic balance puller. It also has a larger 4 bolt pattern and I use two of these bolt holes to screw in bolts for either puller.
I've hit the shaft fairly hard with a hammer while the puller is under pressure but I read that Kohler shafts are brittle and can shatter. Can I take a full swing with a hammer? |
russell
New member
Username: Rgadano
Post Number: 8
Registered: 08-2006
Posted From: 12.44.20.2
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, January 05, 2007 - 06:30 am: |
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I had the same problem with a Chapparral engine. I thought I would never get it off. I really crank down on the puller and smack it hard. Watch out because it will come flying back with the pressure put on by the puller. Good luck |
liflod
Advanced Member
Username: Liflod
Post Number: 124
Registered: 01-2005
Posted From: 151.201.211.103
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, January 05, 2007 - 08:34 am: |
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Try keeping pressure on it overnight. Tighten the puller and let it sit for an hour or so and tighten it some more. Smack the head of the puller bolt with a hammer. Usually one hard hit will make it pop.
If there is a ring or something that bolts to those 3 bolts that your puller wont fit, you can bolt that part on and try grabbing the part with a puller. |
Josh
New member
Username: Mccastlej
Post Number: 6
Registered: 12-2006
Posted From: 24.11.126.201
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, January 05, 2007 - 09:15 am: |
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On a Cuyuna engine I had, the flywheel actually welded itself to the crankshaft some how. The engine was junk, so I used a massive puller, and I actually had to hit the puller with a sledge hammer to get it off. When it finally gave, there was a piece of the crank that fused itself to the flywheel. I've found out that I'm not the only one to have this happen, but it is not common. You might want to actually use a puller designed for your flywheel if you can't get it soon. |
Mike Cummings
Member
Username: Hydromike
Post Number: 42
Registered: 03-2005
Posted From: 141.149.254.227
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, January 05, 2007 - 09:46 am: |
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Borton,
I just recently had to remove the flywheel on a JLO single, and it came off with significant difficulty. It's a large flywheel that also performs the cooling duties for the engine, looking much like a lawnmower (kohler,onan, briggs, take your pick) flywheel. I initially used a 3-jaw puller with no avail. I think that the force isn't directed correctly with these types of pullers, and it's more appropriate to pull as close to the crankshaft as possible. The puller I used is essentially a steering wheel puller, using 3 bolts. It took a lot of tightening, a little heat (be careful not to melt the electronics behind the flywheel!), and a few carefully directed whacks with a hammer. I found that a good sized hammer and a brass drift worked well to tap around the outside of the flywheel after heating it worked well. Don't hit it like you're driving a 12D nail into hardwood.
Each one is different, but just about the moment you give up, THUNK!, it'll pop off. Guaranteed.
If you don't see a slot in the crank, there might be a possibility that the key has sheared off, which might make it a bit more difficult. I don't have a Kohler nearby to use as a reference, but if the flywheel is keyed, the crank is keyed. The slot in the crank is likely further up the taper (inward, toward the engine), making it difficult to see when the flywheel is attached. There has to be a way to keep the two lined up for timing purposes. Tapers are strong, but there has to be a method of alignment.
Good luck, and don't give up.
~m |
Borton
New member
Username: Borton
Post Number: 3
Registered: 12-2006
Posted From: 69.134.159.169
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, January 05, 2007 - 09:10 pm: |
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Three new grade 8 bolts and a big, big swing from the hammer and I'm holding a fairly rusty flywheel in my hands.
Thanks for the encouragement to swing for the fences. |
Borton
New member
Username: Borton
Post Number: 4
Registered: 12-2006
Posted From: 69.134.159.169
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, January 05, 2007 - 09:15 pm: |
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Forgot to mention that there is no key for the flywheel. The shaft is forged with a key-like shape. |
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