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Richard Jones
New member
Username: Ric44
Post Number: 8
Registered: 08-2006
Posted From: 207.162.163.22
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, September 03, 2006 - 05:19 pm: | 
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Well I got all the new chains installed and everything is now much smoother with no popping sounds.However I now have a new problem.My right front axle on my 94 model Max II is wanting to slide outward.This is causing my sprocket and chain to ride up against the brake band on the inside and making a heck of a racket due to the misalignment problem.I can push it back in but after a few mins of riding it slides right back out. What is supposed to hold the axles stationary and keep them from shifting? TIA. |
david berger
Senior Member
Username: Davidrrrd
Post Number: 442
Registered: 01-2005
Posted From: 72.72.31.119
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, September 03, 2006 - 06:31 pm: |
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richard the cam lock bearing is all that holds your axels in place.
the area of the bearing on your axel must be in good shap and maybe no grease befor you lock them down, i use a spaner wrench so i can lock and unlock mine over and over without distroying the locking coller, sometimes to lock them good i semi tighten the set screws frst and then have a go on locking the cam. then tighten the set screw securly and fill the end with grease to keep it from rusting and seizing.
if you have any old extra locking collers you might be able to use them as spacer's inside machine between the bearing and the drive tube with your sproket on it,
this will prevent the drive tube from moveing out by spanning the gap between the drive tube with it's bolt threw the axel. and the outer bearing.
this is a next resort if your unable to get your locking coller to grip well.
while your at it you should unlock the coller and move it away from the bearing so you can check the ramp part of the bearing to see if the fragile ramp part of the bearing is intact or if the actual problem might be a broken cam locking ramp on your bearing wich will let your axel move later. |
Mike Maroni
Intermediate Member
Username: Micmac
Post Number: 59
Registered: 07-2005
Posted From: 204.188.172.194
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, September 03, 2006 - 08:23 pm: |
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Richard,
If this continues to be a problem see my thread adout non eccentric bearings. It's alot of work but it solves alot of problems with the cam collars
Mike |
Richard Jones
New member
Username: Ric44
Post Number: 9
Registered: 08-2006
Posted From: 207.162.163.22
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, September 03, 2006 - 09:31 pm: |
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Ok how do I get to the locking collar? Do I take off the outer bearing flange to access it? Then rotate it to tighten it? |
Mike Maroni
Intermediate Member
Username: Micmac
Post Number: 60
Registered: 07-2005
Posted From: 204.188.172.194
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, September 03, 2006 - 10:10 pm: |
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no the collar can be accesed without touching the flange. It is the 1/2 inch metal band on the outermost part of the bearing. It should have a setscrew and a hole in it. The hole is for using a punch to spin the collar tight or loose. The way these collars work is the bearing lip is fatter on one side, as you rotate the collar it pinches down on the axle. Most people rotate the collar clockwise to tighten and counterclockwise to loosen but it dosen't really matter which way. Like David said it's better to use a spanner because the punch method starts to deform the hole in the collar. Just make sure the collar is snug to the bearing and start turning it in a direction and it should tighten up. Then use the hammer and punch or spanner to tighten it the rest of the way |
Richard Jones
Junior Member
Username: Ric44
Post Number: 10
Registered: 08-2006
Posted From: 207.162.163.22
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, September 04, 2006 - 11:35 am: |
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I found the problem this morning. The locking collar has broken away from the rest of the bearing. I checked and have found 2 like this.Was thinking of going to Napa or the local farm store to match some new bearings up.You guys have any numbers to go by on aftermarket bearings? I'm not going to RI because of the steep markup.Thanks for all your help guys. |
david berger
Senior Member
Username: Davidrrrd
Post Number: 443
Registered: 01-2005
Posted From: 72.72.25.74
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, September 04, 2006 - 02:56 pm: |
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well there are several bearings out there that fit this aplication, i have used many diferent numbers over the years, but i never kept a list.
currently i have a (RA103RRB2)as my backup if i have a trailside failure.
so do i understand your post correctly that a piece of the bearing has broken and no longer suports the locking coller?
(the locking collers are seperat from the bearing when they are not binding the bearing to the axel by cam action)
on the bearing there should be a thin to thick ramp or offset looking hole where the axel comes out.
if it is broken any place it will not lock correctly.
you can save the broken ones for inners up the road if you want. |
david berger
Senior Member
Username: Davidrrrd
Post Number: 444
Registered: 01-2005
Posted From: 72.72.25.74
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, September 04, 2006 - 02:58 pm: |
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well there are several bearings out there that fit this aplication, i have used many diferent numbers over the years, but i never kept a list.
currently i have a FAFNIR (RA103RRB2)as my backup if i have a trailside failure.
so do i understand your post correctly that a piece of the bearing has broken and no longer suports the locking coller?
(the locking collers are seperat from the bearing when they are not binding the bearing to the axel by cam action)
on the bearing there should be a thin to thick ramp or offset looking hole where the axel comes out.
if it is broken any place it will not lock correctly.
you can save the broken ones for inners up the road if you want. |
Mike Maroni
Intermediate Member
Username: Micmac
Post Number: 61
Registered: 07-2005
Posted From: 162.84.111.49
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, September 04, 2006 - 09:14 pm: |
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Richard,
I'm not sure on the max II but its probably the same as the max IV. My Max IV uses 206 - 20 bearings. The smaller outer diameter 62 mm ones. You can do a search on the internet for 206 - 20 and find them a bunch of different places.
Warning you get what you pay for. I made the mistake and bought cheap Tractor Supply Co bearings and they were gone in short order. It's better to get good ones form the start rather than the second time around.
Richard Clark sells quality ones or you might go to a local bearing distributor like BDS and bring the old one in to them. The most important ones are the outers for waterproofing. I got good quality ones for my outers and bought less expensive ones from the Big bearing Store on the net. Three of the six I ordered were from China and the other three are QJZ supposedly made in the USA. the seem to be a little better made. So I guess it's whatever the have in stock.
I paid around 25.00 for the quality ones and around 9.00 for the less expensive ones.
Does your machine have bushings on the inners or was it converted to bearings? |
Richard Jones
Junior Member
Username: Ric44
Post Number: 11
Registered: 08-2006
Posted From: 207.162.163.22
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, September 04, 2006 - 09:38 pm: |
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No David nothing appears to be broken, its just I thought the bearing and locking collar were all one piece? If they are not then maybe I havent broke anything.I just dont understand how that collar can lock anything not being attached to the bearing itself.......does the locking collar slide up against (into) the bearing itself? Im puzzled as to how this works without diagrams. I have the repair manual but its not much help on this. |
Fred Sowerwine, Montana's Max dealer
Advanced Member
Username: Fred4dot
Post Number: 191
Registered: 01-2005
Posted From: 216.166.168.53
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, September 04, 2006 - 10:38 pm: |
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Richard, the Federal Mogul BCA bearing # is WPS103GR2ANC. That was what the factory supplied me with several years ago.
Let me warn you that the lip on the bearing that the locking collar grips onto is the weak link in the system up until the larger outer bearing was adopted in mid 1995. Make sure you don't get the chains too tight (adjust at the tight spot with all wheels on one side off the ground) and keep your chain troughs free of tools and rocks - anything that could be picked up in a chain. If you have seat belts, keep them out of your chains.
Chains too tight and something getting in the chain are the primary causes of lock collar failure.
The lock collar slips right up to the bearing and the groove in the collar goes over the lip of the bearing. The collar only moves a little to get tight. Position your axle where you want it to be anchored. Loosen the set screw and slide the collar snug against the bearing. Turn it with your hand toward the front of the machine and when it is snug, tap the collar in the same direction with a punch and hammer in the indention (don't use the set screw hole) with one or two good taps. After the collar is tight, tighten down the set screw. |
Richard Jones
Junior Member
Username: Ric44
Post Number: 12
Registered: 08-2006
Posted From: 207.162.163.22
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, September 07, 2006 - 09:40 am: |
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Thanks Fred I bought 3 new bearings at the Napa place yesterday and after looking at the new parts I have a better understanding of how they work. I did find the problem as part of the lip was broken off on my bearings and not letting them lock down.I hope to get them installed tomorrow so I can ride some. |
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