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Mike Maroni
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Username: Micmac

Post Number: 7
Registered: 07-2005
Posted From: 162.84.74.132

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Posted on Monday, November 28, 2005 - 07:49 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Finally got the axles out what a chore!! I'm going to replace all the bearings and lock collars. I've been looking on the internet for replacement stuff and keep running into go-cart bearings that have an integrated locking collar on the bearing itself has anyone tried these? Pros Cons? If I don't use these and go with the standard setup I have found split collars that will fit the axles any problems with these? I think they would solve the setscrew/rusted on the shaft issue all these older Max have. The screws look like they're the larger allen type and would be beefier.
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liflod
Intermediate Member
Username: Liflod

Post Number: 56
Registered: 01-2005
Posted From: 24.3.236.145

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Posted on Monday, November 28, 2005 - 08:00 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

The set screw locking collars are not as good of a lock as the eccentric collars. The eccentric collars lock the bearing to the axle using the whole collar as a locking surface. The set screw type only rely on the set screw head for holding the axle in place.
Use anti-seize when you put the machine back together and as long as you change the bearings in the next few years, you shouldn't have much of a problem. When you try to loosen the set screws , take a small punch that just fits into the head of the screw and smack it a few time with a hammer. This should loosen the screw in the collar making it easier to get out. I always use the 1/4" hex screwdriver bits with a ratchet intead of the L shape allen wrenches. They don't bend as much and you can drive them into the set screw with a hammer so they have less of a chance of stripping out.
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Mike Maroni
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Username: Micmac

Post Number: 8
Registered: 07-2005
Posted From: 162.84.74.132

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Posted on Monday, November 28, 2005 - 10:04 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Liftrod,

Could you explain what an eccentric collar or bearing is I don't know that much about bearings and their terminology.
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liflod
Intermediate Member
Username: Liflod

Post Number: 57
Registered: 01-2005
Posted From: 24.3.236.145

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Posted on Monday, November 28, 2005 - 10:20 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

The outer edge of the bearing is egg shaped. The locking collar has an egg shaped cut that fits over the bearing edge. When the locking collar is installed, it is turned so that the egg shapes wedge themselves together and the collar and the bearing are locked to the axle.
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E.J. Warden
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Username: Ejwarden

Post Number: 2
Registered: 02-2005
Posted From: 70.98.226.97

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Posted on Tuesday, November 29, 2005 - 08:45 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Liflod is right..always use anti-seize. Or get the cutting torch ready
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david berger
Senior Member
Username: Davidrrrd

Post Number: 220
Registered: 01-2005
Posted From: 172.139.28.68

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Posted on Wednesday, November 30, 2005 - 09:27 am:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

ej antiseiz will wash out from outer bearings, might stay in the inner bearings if you have them.
i added inner bearings to my 86 maxII but now that i have to tear it down one axels stuck fast in the inner bearing, on most i tapered the axel a little to make shure exposure to water in the hull wouldent freez my bearings to the axels. aperently i missed this one. as much as i don't wish to blow the money on a new one im thinking at this point i must cut a $50.00 axel to save the $15.00 bearing, it's on drivers side and can be used after on pasengers side because the bearings are ferther out on that side, well i think they are??
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Anonymous
 
Posted From: 24.75.42.10

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Posted on Thursday, December 01, 2005 - 08:07 am:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

A good - high quality silver or nickel based or even marine type anti-sieze will not "wash off" once in between the bearing and shaft. Stick with the permatex or loctite brands and you'll be all set. These items are made to keep the parts, once assembled, from corroding together. I've never had a problem after using them.
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david berger
Senior Member
Username: Davidrrrd

Post Number: 221
Registered: 01-2005
Posted From: 172.149.150.89

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Posted on Thursday, December 01, 2005 - 09:19 am:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Anonymous

dosent matter the quality of antiseze you use, your not takeing into concideration the water presshure agenced the stuff when your floating, every part of hull,bearing and axel is under preshure from serfice tention, this is how it stays afloat, and the antiseze will wash away, tim scotanus used it librily in the points between bearings in bearing extentions,reguler outer bearing and iner bearings and the axels and when it cam time to do a little disasembly only the bearings in the extentions and inner bearings had any antiseez in them, the inner becaus they stayed dry inside and the ones in the extentions becaus they had equel water presher on both sides, only the hulls outer bearings suport the floatation of the vehicle. and thusly leak, become contaminated and degrade. and of coarse the pasage of water between the bearing race and axel.
my inners had only 30wt motor oil on them when i asembled them and they are subjected to hull half full of water from time to time
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Jerry R. Nuss
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Username: Jerrynuss

Post Number: 151
Registered: 02-2005
Posted From: 70.106.219.117

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Posted on Thursday, December 01, 2005 - 07:05 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

I don't see where the hydrosatic pressure of the water has anything to do with washing the antiseize away when it is between two pieces of metal with close tolerances. In freshwater at .432psi of pressure per each foot of depth the pressure of the water is not that great. I could understand high pressure from a pressure washer removing the anti seize just not immersion. There should not be any mechanical action or movement between the bearing anti- seize and axle. If there was then I could see it getting it worked out.
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Jerry R. Nuss
Advanced Member
Username: Jerrynuss

Post Number: 153
Registered: 02-2005
Posted From: 70.106.219.117

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Posted on Thursday, December 01, 2005 - 10:23 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

If you are concerned about the bearing and axle being corrosively welded together you can use an anticorrosive chemical to coat both parts. I tried powercoating the axles but could not get the bearing on. So I sanded the powder coat off so the bearing would go on. I then treated the axle and bearing with some stuff I have called corrostop. It mixes up with water and has the same consistency as water so it doesn't build up. I then put some permatex anti seize on the bearing and axle over the corrostop treated surface. I've never had any signs of rust or corrosion and the axle slides right out of the bearing. I only know it works because I figued it wouldn't hurt to try and then about six months later I tore up some cork gaskets and had to disassemble the axle to replace the gaskets. I have the machine in the water everyday from and hour to 3 or more hours.

The stuff is called corrostop and I get it from a technical dive shop that sells OMS equipment. I don't know who really makes it and lets OMS put their label on it.
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david berger
Senior Member
Username: Davidrrrd

Post Number: 222
Registered: 01-2005
Posted From: 172.159.189.55

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Posted on Friday, December 02, 2005 - 09:32 am:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

i tryed painting my axels but then they dident fit into the bearings, and as for not seeing how the antisiez works out, well i guess it's hard to see it, i don't understand it ether, but it was gone none the less,
seariosly i can see water goin threw some times so water can fit till rust fills the gap, a old timer tim and i know sugjested caulking but i think it would prevent the good grip by cam lock we are counting on for our chains alignment, ect..ect..caulking or rtv on axel as it slides into bearing it would seam to me that would afect cam locks ability,
id rather rely on spacer between sproket drive tube or splined sproket hub and the outer bearing to hold the inside alignment,insted of the cames.
david
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Jerry R. Nuss
Advanced Member
Username: Jerrynuss

Post Number: 154
Registered: 02-2005
Posted From: 70.106.219.117

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Posted on Friday, December 02, 2005 - 06:34 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Paint is just too thick and makes mounting the bearing just about impossible. I have not tried silicone sealant around the outside edge of the bearing where it contacts the axle. It might work or might just end up trapping more moisture. I did have good success with the anti seize and corrostop. But that was just to stop the bearing from seizing to the axle, I don't use it as a bearing lube or packing to waterproof the bearing.
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Mike Maroni
New member
Username: Micmac

Post Number: 9
Registered: 07-2005
Posted From: 71.161.37.242

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Posted on Friday, December 02, 2005 - 10:17 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

do the bearings need races on both sides or would just one side be ok?

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