| Author |
Message |
    
Oliver (Digipix)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:23 pm: | 
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The oil drain and the tranny drain are really a pain in the %#$@ to get to on a Buffalo, not sure what the other Max's are like. Any tips on how to change the oil easier? The frame back there seems to get in the way of sliding a catch tray under easily. What do you guys do? Any help and tips? Thanks |
matt435
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:23 pm: |
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The best way to catch the fluid is to use a heavy trash bag. Stuff it into place and hold the opening at the drain hole. The bag will fit nice and leave no mess. Note: The bottom plug on the borg worner t-20 is not a drain hole. it is a fluid level hole. You have to tip the tranny so the hole is at the lowest point to get the fluid out. Hope this helps you out. Matt
P.S. do not use a aftermarket oil filter! most likely it will not have the spring loaded baffle inside the filter to keep the oil in the filter when the engine is off. So when you start the engine with out this you are starting it dry. These small engines do not have the oil psi that a car has and it takes awhile to fill up the filter. |
Oliver (Digipix)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:23 pm: |
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Matt, thanks for the tips. I'll give it a try. |
Alan Harper
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:23 pm: |
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I know absolutely nothing about a Buffalo but I
doubt that changing the oil is much different
than a Coot. Kohler makes a quick change
fitting that replaces the drain plug on a B&S
Vanguard engine. Just installed one on my
18hp the other day. Can slip a hose on the
fitting and route the hose through the floor
drain plug opening to a catch pan. The part
number is Kohler 25-755-1-1 Kit 835. I think it
was about $12 at the local B&S dealer. |
MaxRules (Brandon_price)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:23 pm: |
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I have that same valve on my Briggs. It works great and makes changing the oil much easier. I bought mine for $10 from Recreatives. |
Oliver
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:23 pm: |
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Brandon,
Thanks for the tip, RI already sent me mine. Talk about easier! Thanks all. |
canadyjw
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:23 pm: |
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I have a MaxIV with the 25 hp. Kolher motor and about a week ago we had some bad storms through here and evidently a tree limb crashed down on the roof of the shed where I store this maching and created a kind of funnel which then proceeded to fill up my Max with rainwater...
So now I have all the water out (I have learned a lesson about leaving the drainage plugs out if I am not going into the pond) and I thought it might be a good idea to change the fluid in the transmission since at least part of it was under water. I have read the book that came with my Max and I understand that there is drainage plug and a filler plug on the transmission. When I look at the transmission I can barely see the drainage plug and I can only feel what I think is the filler plug (on the right top as I am facing the back of the Max. I also notice that these are square headed plugs.
So my (potentially stupid) questions are:
1. Are the heads of these plugs a standard size? What size are they? I had a limited number of sockets with me tonight and one was too small and one was too large.
2. I understand about elevating the front of the Max when you do the fluid change, but then what do you use to get fluid in the filler hole when the Max is flat again? That bolt/hole is really up under the motor mount. Or do you just loosen that bolt to vent the transmission when you drain the transmission fluid out of the bottom hole and then put the Max flat and fill up through the bottom hole on the left (as you face the back of the Max)?
3. I couldn't find any specifications as to how much to torque those bolts when you are finished? Is that critical?
Thanks in advance for any help you can give me |
Larry Houghton
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:23 pm: |
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canad:In answer to your questions. 1st,the heads are either 5/8 or 9/16 wrench. 2nd, pull both plugs out. top plug is your vent plug it has to go back in the top hole or you will have an oil leak.I just my suction gun to drain fluid and when I fill the trans. back up I use my long funnel for filling auto. trans. on cars. 3rd, they are just snug.One more thing that was an open end wrench. |
Ron Hutt
New member
Username: Ronhutt
Post Number: 1
Registered: 04-2010
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, April 29, 2010 - 09:33 am: |
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Question? I changed the oil in the Argo again but this time more than the usual amount ended up in the bottom of th machine. Is there a good way to degrease it out the back of the machine?
Ron |
Jeff bar
Advanced Member
Username: Argo8x8
Post Number: 198
Registered: 03-2005
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, April 29, 2010 - 04:04 pm: |
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Ron
What I do is put thin plastic sheets like old leaf bags under drain to catch the leaks
Jeff Bar |
Ron Hutt
New member
Username: Ronhutt
Post Number: 2
Registered: 04-2010
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, April 29, 2010 - 06:40 pm: |
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Jeff
Didn't get that done. I usually put down absorbant towels to catch leakage. However, my brother-in-law was helping and we forgot to do it this time. Would lite solvent, mineral oil, ect, work to get it off the bottom and moving to the back without causing any problems. It's the odor of the oil I don't like. Like sticking your head under the hood of a car all day!!
Ron |
Dave Evans
Advanced Member
Username: Dozer
Post Number: 174
Registered: 01-2001
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, April 29, 2010 - 08:26 pm: |
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Use GUNK and lots of high pressure water, jacking up front of argo and letting water out of drain holes
Dave |
Shop Talk: Tech Tips and Q&A section