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Route 6x6 Discussion Board * Shop Talk: Tech Tips and Q&A section * Max II Problems :-( < Previous Next >

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bcripe1

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Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:39 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Well this Max II ordeal has been a major PIA! I took it out in the Desert this weekend to drive it around. As some of you have read, I have had nothing but problems since the day I decided to buy this thing. Now I am a ways out there and its about 100 degrees and the throttle cable broke. Clearly water was in the housing and corroded the cable all the way through. About 20 inches came out. We were able to rig a cable from a model airplane to get it back. Thank god I was out there with friends who are handy and have 4 wheelers. Still havent gotten a bill of sale either! Well enough venting.

Does anybody know if there is somebody in so-cal who works on these things? I need a total runthrough. If I was out there with just myself and my girlfriend I would have been screwed since my wheelchair was left in camp.

Also I want to buy a new cable but not the junky RI cable that was in there. I have the waverunner throttle lever. I want a very smooth cable. I would like the throttle to be as smooth as a motorcycle. Anybody have any ideas?

The Max steered pretty good to one side but to the other it was very grabby and made sounds sort of like a chain jumping a sprocket. It wouldnt do anything unless you jammed it all the way back on the right side. The left side would steer by easing it back. It was pretty smooth. Does that sound like it still isnt broken in?

Thanks,
Bill
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david berger (Davidrrrd)

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Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:39 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

i can only sugest a future fix for your throtle cable, im shure you will like this!
get a tandem bycicle derailer cable kit from a specilty bicicle dealer or shop, it's a 96" or longet stainless steal cable and sheth is sold seperatly, this stuff has a plastic lineing insted of the steal lineing in the factorys cable, the shop also has crimp on ends ect.. to make the cable with, this stuff works well with that new grip you mentioned so your on the right track, longer is better so make all your bends when instaling your cable smoth wide turns cause tight turns cause drag, your new home made and feals repairable stainless steal cable will turn out silky smoth ans super responsive and best yet feald repairable!
all my vehicls have them and there great, you can keep a kit in the tool box to repair your buddys vehicles throtle in the feald as well,
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Fred Sowerwine, Montana's Max dealer (Fred4dot)

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Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:39 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Bill, Sorry to hear you are still having problems. If I were in your shoes, I would hire an attorney.

About a throttle cable, you might have a problem getting one long enough if not using factory issue. I don't know where to send you other than to contact Richard Clark.

For someone to work on your machine, I advice trying to find a small engine/lawn mower shop or an agricultural equipment dealer. Did you check the owners registry for someone in California who might be able to help? You could also call RI and see if they might know someone in your area who can help you.

Your turning sounds like weight distribution (but if you haven't, check the chain tension on the right side). I'm guessing you are sitting on the left side. The noise you are hearing, sounds like "tranny chatter" (the bands are only partially engaged and bounce on the drum). Neutral only effects a turn if you are heavier on the side you are turning to or have more drag on that side - like going up hill. To get smooth turns, you need to learn how to keep your hands steady and only apply enough pressure on the laterals to effect a turn. If you aren't turning as sharp as you would like, you have to pull the steering lever back more, but not enough to lock up the brake. I think your machine is working all right, it is the driver that isn't broken in yet. The more hours you get on a machine, the easier it is to shift and the faster it will go.
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bcripe1

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Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:39 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Thanks Dave, Ill try the bike cable.

Thanks Fred, I was sitting in the middle with the sticks between my legs. It turns left real smooth but to turn right you do have to lock the brake. Thats when it sometimes makes the chain noise.

I think I was driving it right because turning left I could make real smooth turns of any radius. Going slow required locking up the wheels to turn.

BC
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OJIMMYC

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Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:39 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

HI BILL,
I HAD THE SAME STEERING PROBLEM WITH MY MAX 1V. I FOUND OUT I HAD ABOUT 2 LBS MORE AIR IN THE LEFT SIDE TIRES THAN THE RIGHT AND IT PULLED TO THE RIGHT. YOU MAY HAVE TO PLAY WITH THE TIRE PRESSURE BUT MY UNDERSTANDING IS THAT'S THE ONLY WAY TO TRULY GET MAX'S TO STEER STRAIGHT. IT WORKED GREAT FOR ME. REMEMBER, AIR PRESSURE IN THOSE TYPE TIRES DETERMINES THE CIRCUMFERENCE OF THE TIRE. THE MORE AIR THE BIGGER THE TIRE. IF YOUR LEFT TIRES ARE 85" AROUND AND THE RIGHTS ARE 82" AROUND, YOU WILL STEER TO THE RIGHT.HOPE IT HELPS, JIM
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Big Wolf

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Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:39 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

You know after reading Bills message post a couple of times, it sounds like the drive chains on one side are not adjusted properly. The chains may be so loose that they are jumping the sprockets on that side and causing the difficulty with turning. The sounds that you have described and the turning problem, sound all to familiar to me.

If the chains are indeed loose and or there is a problem with the chain adjusters slipping, then you may need a different style chain adjuster installed. Either the newest revision R.I. chain adjusters, or the Richard Clark brand and type adjusters.

I wish you lived a lot closer, otherwise I would just drive over and fix the thing and be done with it.
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bcripe1

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Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:39 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Thanks guys,

Ill check the chains again. Funny that a 01 demo with
12 hours has so many problems huh.... (BTW turns out
its a 98). Wish there was somebody in so-cal who
worked on these things. I think I need a full inspection /
OH. Jim I am running 2 psi in all tires.

Thanks again,
Bill

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