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Gary Faulk (Banshee28)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:35 pm: | 
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Well after looking for what seemed forever I finally found what seems to be the right aatv for me. I will be picking my 1999 Max IV 600T 18hp B&S up on 9-2-03 (This machine only has 10 hours on it) can’t wait to try it out.
Now I was wondering if any of you long time aatv riders could tell me what the weaknesses of this machine are.
And just how many hours can you get out of a machine like this before it needs bearings and chains replaced.
I wanted to use my Max to run bowl weevil traps and this requires a machine that can run none stop for 10+ hours in 100+ degree weather. Are these machines bad about over heating in 100+ degree weather if ran none stop for that long?
And what things should I do for routine maintenance and how often.
Thanks in advance for any help
Gary Faulk |
David Keeso (Argomag)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:35 pm: |
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Because these machines are air cooled, they need to stop and rest for a while. They will not overheat persay, but they will get very hot and it could eventually lead to problems. My ARGO has 653 hrs on the clock and I am just replacing chains now (really badly needed) and it is used in moderate to heavy operating conditions. It isn't always used under load but only now am I having chain problems (one is so loose that it doesn't run at the same speed and when it catches up it snaps and makes a loud popping sound. The engine will need to be serviced more often if you are running it hot all the time. What I do is let the machine idle and it cools down quicker that way than shutting down and waiting. It also depends on how hard you are running the vehicle. if you are running full throttle in hi gear than it will heat up faster than running at say half throttle and in hi gear. Another consideration is the load the vehicle will have to carry. if its just you and some gear than a break every so often is likely enough but if their is more, than the engine is working harder to give you the power you are demanding and will need a break faster.
I hope this helps some and feel free to ask any other questions you might have. |
Fred Sowerwine, Montana's Max dealer (Fred4dot)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:35 pm: |
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Gary, With ten hours, the break-in oil needs to be changed if it hasn't been. On a 1999 you should have the splined axle and o-ring chains. I suppose the drive belt will be your weak link; expect about 225 hours from a drive belt under reasonable use (if you are towing something or have to hit the throttle hard with every acceleration, you will get fewer hours). Change the engine oil every fifty hours, filter every 100. Lube the bearing flanges at least spring and fall - don't use but a squirt or two as too much grease blows out the seals. Chains will need adjusted about every 125/150 hours. When you lube the bearings, check the bearing flange bolts for uniform tightness (especially if you experience any "taking on water").
I don't think you will have any trouble with the Briggs and hot temps. Your big concern on all day running will be having enough gas and that will surprise you if you are doing low throttle driving.
The o-ring chain should last over 1000 hours (I was told five times the life of regular chain and regular chain lasts about 250 hours on a Max IV -longer on a Max II). Its hard to tell on bearings, with just a little grease, they seem to last a long time (Brandon Price is the only person I have sold a max to, that I am aware of, who has changed any of the post 1995 bigger bearings).
Remember that there is a learning curve on driving a max to be able to get its full potential. Take it easy and you will always be able to back out and find a better spot. Going hard and fast just gets you really stuck. Approach all obstacles straight on at slow speeds. Learn to slip steer and you will be able to have six wheel drive even when turning. Use just enough brake to do what you need done - smooth easy hands makes for smooth easy max operation. Keep your sticks all the way forward when climbing (it is natural to pull back just a little, but you will partially disengage your drive belt and that will result in what appears to be a loss of power). When going down hill, ride your tranny brakes (hold steering laterals part way back past center) to have controlled speed without bouncing). It takes time behind the sticks to learn what works and what doesn't.
Good luck and welcome to the world of skid steers. |
Fred Sowerwine, Montana's Max dealer (Fred4dot)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:35 pm: |
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Gary, I should have said partially disengage your drive bands (not belt - the bands are inside your tranny). Oh yeah, if your drive belt ever slips, use belt dressing (I use the liquid stuff and put it on with my finger). Regular use of belt dressing will ensure top performance and increase drive belt life. |
George
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:35 pm: |
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Fred, where do you buy belt dressing? Any snowmobile shop?
George |
Josh Trachtenberg
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:35 pm: |
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I was wondering if somebody could offer advice. I just resurected a 72 attex 252 colt run great until I get in the water and it stalls out as soon as I get towed oiut of the water 2nd pull and she is running great again any info thanks Josh |
Gary Faulk (Banshee28)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:35 pm: |
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Just took my new Max for it’s first ride and it seems to be making a strange noise when turning. It seems to be coming from the back of the machine is this normal? I checked all the chains and made adjustments as needed. But it didn’t stop the noise.
Also I have another question should my 1999 max4 take off when shifter is in forward without pushing the control sticks forward. It’s as if the control sticks have no neutral position and are all the way forward and can only be pulled back. I was thinking maybe they are out of adjustment and are responsible for the noise.
And I would also like to know where to get a good shop manual for the machine at.
Thanks
Gary Faulk |
Fred Sowerwine, Montana's Max dealer (Fred4dot)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:35 pm: |
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George, I get it from NAPA, but would think any auto supply or farm supply store would have it. Maybe even a snowmobile shop. |
Fred Sowerwine, Montana's Max dealer (Fred4dot)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:35 pm: |
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Gary, the noise is probably tranny chatter. When you pull the stick back to engage the brake to turn, you probably don't have the brake completely engaged. Tranny chatter is normal, but you can put in a friction modifier and it will quiet it down. Personally, I like the noise - it tells me the bands are gripping. If your lever travel is nine inches or so (one lever all the way forward, one all the way back - measure between the sticks) your tranny adjustment is OK. I adjust for seven inches when I adjust.
As far as the t-20 (on a max) is concerned. The steering laterals are spring loaded forward. In forward gear: when all the way forward, fully engaged, center of travel is neutral and all the way back is brake. In reverse gear: all the way forward the brake is fully engaged, center of travel is neutral and all the way back is bands fully engaged and machine will go backwards. To test for neutral, the best way is to have the machine will all tires in the air and move the tires by hand with someone holding the sticks in different positions. Also important to have wheels off the ground when adjusting chains and make sure you tighten at the tights spot only.
A manual can be purchased from Richard Clark, RI or any max dealer |
liflod (Liflod)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:35 pm: |
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Josh,
Does it stall out when you're not in the water? Is the engine getting wet? Is it starving for fuel because you are running at a higher engine speed? What other symptoms do you have? |
Fred Sowerwine, Montana's Max dealer (Fred4dot)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:35 pm: |
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Josh, Just a guess, but maybe it is the temperature difference of the water. Hot engine, cold water causing the gas to freeze going into the carb. Had it happen to me once with a Briggs. Engine just quit. After a while all was ok. |
Attex Bob
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:35 pm: |
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Is the exhaust pipe above the water line? |
Gary Faulk (Banshee28)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:35 pm: |
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Fred Sowerwine
Thanks for the advice
I see you are a Max dealer and you seem to enjoy helping people out in need of advice.
That’s just the kind of person I like to do business with. I’ll be getting in touch with you. |
Shop Talk: Tech Tips and Q&A section