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Archive through January 7, 2001Brad Dunn20 02-23-05  10:31 pm
Archive through January 27, 2002argogeru02-23-05  10:36 pm
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mike martindale (Wetsu)

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Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:28 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

can anybody give some help on changing the inner flange and bearing on the outer bearing of my argo bigfoot? it is on the right rear axle,inside the body. not the one that goes to the frame.the manual doesn't go into great detail on that subject. and about how much should a new bearing cost? any helpwould be greatly appreciated.
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mike martindale (Wetsu)

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Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:28 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

well geru i don't know about your bigfoot,but i just pulled both rear axles on mine,and the sprockets DO have 1 set screw each.
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Roger Smith

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Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:28 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Some of the sprockets don't have set screws, like the bottom ones on the transmission primary chains.
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argoguru

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Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:28 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Mike,
My front ones are the only ones that do not have the set screws. At the time of my above post I didn't have them though, they vibrated out or something and when I was at my dealer, they solved the problem by replacing them and LOCKTIGHTING them. seems like the factory would do that, if they do they missed locktighting mine. I hate finding stuff out that way.
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david berger (Davidrrrd)

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Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:28 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

OOH BE CAIRFUL WHAT YOU WISH FOR, HEH HEH HEH TIM SCHOTANUS HAD A TOUGH TIME WITH REMOVING SET SCREWS FROM A MAX IIV, THEY HAD BIN LOCK TIGHTED, WITH THE RED LOCK TIGHT!
ALSO THERE WAS THIS 1 SET SCREW THAT WAS NOT THE SAME SIZE ALLEN, IT ALSO UNFORTUNETLY WAS HARDEND!
IT TOOK 2 COMPLEAT SETS OF DRILLS TO GET THAT HUB LOOSE! IT WAS RUINED AND NEEDED TO BE REPLACED,
I BELEAVE RECREATIVES FOR THERE PART REPLACED IT FOR FREE!
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mike martindale (Wetsu)

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Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:28 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

so your saying when my bearings come in i should locktight my set screws???? ( hopefully by sat.)and what about this stuff called nevr sieze? my dealer suggested i use it on the axles,and the bearings should i ever need to replace them.he said it will make everything come out easier.
david i know about that stuck screw,only one drill bit wahaha.i also had to drill a small hole in the frame to get to those inner bearings.
hey roger,after i get my axles back in i'm going to go to deepwater,you wanna go this or next weekend???if you do e:mail me and let me know.they got 6 inches of snow last week,and it hit 72 degrees today,i'm thinking a boat load of mud.if you can't don't sweat it there'll be other opportunities to go.i haven't got to ride for 2 weeks and i'm getting a severe case of cabin fever.even the grass is starting to regrow in my back yard.
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Roger

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Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:28 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Mike, it was 75 in Tulsa Wednesday, broke an 80 year record! I broke a sweat working in the back yard.

I have the never seize, think I got it at a bearing supply. I brush it on the lower primary chain sprockets and axles since they're not set screwed in place. Also good for spark plug threads that go into aluminum heads, prevents seizing/ fubared threads.

My trailer is still loaned out with a $70,000 piece of machinery sitting in storage. I can't use it right now, but should get it back withing a month. I could have it now if I insisted but would cost him a boom truck fee. When I get it I'll let you know and we'll go riding.
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mike martindale (Wetsu)

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Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:28 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

roger, i'll get some then,i don't need any more FUBARed problems. the one bearing was enough for awhile. what started as 1 bearing,turned into 4 plus a new outer flange assembly.not to mention the seals and gaskets,for 2 axles.
don't worry about not coming,i just wanted to let you know incase you could make it.i'm sure we'll get plenty of chances to ride later.
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Phil Maurey

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Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:28 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Since there are now discussion threads for the Hydro Traxx that include Hydro Traxx owners I thought I would post this here so that the latest newsletter can be viewed. It is also worth your time to go through the new postings related to Hydro Traxx.

Over time there have been many questions about the Hydro Traxx, it's setup, and comparability to the Argo or Max.

We have just posted a newsletter on our site that answers many of these questions and comments.

Please visit the newsletter at:
http://www.hydrotraxxonline.com/HydroTraxxCompanyLetter.htm
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albo

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Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:28 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Phil, I am curious about one of the comments in the newsletter you mention. Now don't missunderstand me, I am not trying to downgrade the Hydrotraxx as it does look like a very interesting, well built machine, but I am genuinely curious. The news letter states and I quote"Each wheel is driven by its own motor and is independent of each other. This design relieves the many stresses as commonly associated within the typical chain drive systems. In other words each wheel is separate from the other. That means if one wheel wants to run 100 rpm and the other at 98 rpm and a third at 101 rpm it can do this. In a simplistic manner you have an engine driving a hydraulic pump, driving six hydraulic wheel motors."
If you had this situation, would'nt the wheel running at 101 rpm either spin or cause the slower wheels to drag?
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david berger (Davidrrrd)

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Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:28 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

ALBO I CAN ANSER I THINK, THE PROBLEMS ON RECENT POSTES (A FEW WEEKS AGO) ABOUT SOME TROUBLE IN CHAINE DRIVES DUE TO DIFERNT TIRE SIZES OR INFLATION,
POSABLY WORN TIRES AND NEW ONES MIXED ECT.. WHATEVER THE CAUSE IT CAUSES GREAT DRIVE TRAIN STRESS,CHAINE WHAIR AND POSABLY TROUBLE WITH TRAX, ECT..ECT..
WHAT THE HYDRALICS THAT RUN INDEPENDENTLY CAN DO IS ALOW EACH TIRE THE ROTATION THAT KEEPS IT IN SINK WITH THE OTHERS,
NO MATER WHAT THE OUTER DIAMETER OR TIRE PRESHUR MAY BE,
IT CAN DO THIS BECAUSE THEY ARE NOT CHAINED TOGETHER LIKE DRIVE TRAINS IN CHAIN DRIVE VEHICLES
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Dave Robinson

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Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:28 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Scott, I have a 1992 Magnum 6x6 and I just pulled all my axles and replaced the bearings and seals. My front two sprockets did not have set screws in them. I figured because they were suppose to "float", but that is an uneducated guess. After reading your Post I would have to say they were not suppose to be there, they were the only ones missing.
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Alan Meeuwsen (Albo)

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Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:28 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

David,
Thank you for your input. I thought that might be the case but I am not familiar with hydrolic motor drives so i wasn't sure if they had enough give to compensate in that manner. It does make sense though and I believe you are right.
What is your opinion of the Hydrotraxx overall?
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david berger (Davidrrrd)

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Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:28 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

ALTHOUGH I DID SEE THE ONE THAT SHOWED UP AT HUMPHREY AT ONE JAMBOREE I DID NOT TAKE THAT OPERTUNITY TOO "KICK THE TIRES"
IT'S OBVEIOSLY A COMETIAL UNIT,
BE NICE IF THEY BUILT A SPORT UTILITY UNIT,
I MAY HAVE A CHANCE SOON TOO LOOK ONE OVER WELL ENOPHE TO GIVE A MORE DETAILED OPINION, A FRIEND'S CONCIDERING A POSABLE PERCHUS OF A HYDROTRAX AND I MAY JOIN HIM IN A CLOASER UP LOOK BEFORE HE DECIDES,
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bigfoot2000 (Unregistered Guest)
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Posted on Tuesday, July 19, 2005 - 11:34 am:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

can you remove links from the rear and middle drive chains on a argo bigfoot when they have stretched to the tighteners limit. Or is it better to just purchase new chain.
Secondly i find that the axles' metal is too soft which helps creates space between the bearing allowing for quicker bearing wear and leaks. Does anyone know of a longterm solution to keeping this machine water tight.
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Jerry R. Nuss
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Username: Jerrynuss

Post Number: 62
Registered: 02-2005
Posted From: 70.106.206.216

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Posted on Tuesday, July 19, 2005 - 07:06 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

I think a lot of people have been through this. This is good though because it means you are actually using your machine. Swap out for new chain. Do you have double or single row links? Both can be found at several suppliers.

The soft axles are a weak point on the Argo. You can replace them with new ones but the problem will repeat in time. You can move them by changing the bearing and sprocket placement and put a spacer on the end of the axle or another option is to have them hardsurfaced where the seals contact them.
I had mine hard surfaced, which consists of grinding the wear area then welding in a bead of harder steel then machining them back down to the correct diameter.
This works very well and the axles will remain watertight at the seals much longer. The seals will wear out instead of the seal and the axle wearing. Of course keep the flange seals tightened correctly and keep it greased. I have mine in the water just about daily without any leaks. The water I get in normally comes in between the top and bottom body.

For chain lube I have been using Bel Ray Super Clean Chain Lube. It stays clean and doesn't collect dirt.

Email me and I'll give you contact information for a source of the hard surfaced axles.
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Rogersmith
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Username: Rogersmith

Post Number: 39
Registered: 01-2005
Posted From: 4.244.102.195

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Posted on Wednesday, July 20, 2005 - 07:02 am:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

You can swap axles between the ones with bearing extensions and ones without to get new surfaces. I buy real seals from a bearing supply or parts store, with a spring around the lip and a wiper seal, contacts the shaft in a new area. I've used locktite on slightly loose bearings, but it's difficult to assemble before it hardens and takes heat to disassemble.

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