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Ignorant

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Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:34 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

When I was a kid my dad had an two cycle outboard motor that sat for a couple of seasons. When he went to use it, it would not turnover. He took it to an outboard shop and came back with the story that the outboard mechanic squirted something into the cylinder, let it sit for a few minutes and it broke free and started up. It ran well for several seasons afterwards. Dad never did know what the mechanic put in the cylinder. The mechanic told him that if he let it be known what he was using, then everyone with stuck motors would just free them up themselves and he would loose out on business.

Does anyone know what this stuff may have been?

Why do you ask that I want to know? Because guess what, my 2 cycle atv engine was not pulled through or started last year because I had to relocate. I tried to pull start it today and the recoil starter would not budge.

Who can help me out? I want to go out bouncing with my machine.
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liflod (Liflod)

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Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:34 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

It was probably Marvel mystery oil. That stuff does wonders on everything. Also, PB blaster seems to work a whole bunch better than WD-40 for getting things broke loose.
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Eddie Beddingfield

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Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:34 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Use wd-40 or kerosene, let it set awhile. Then grab clutch und try to rock motor back and forth , this will break it loose without damage to rings.
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David Keeso (Argomag)

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Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:34 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Isn't that stuff flamable? I would think that thats taking a bit of a risk.
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ignorant

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Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:34 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Thanks for the tips. I'll try one or two of the remedies and see what happens.
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liflod (Liflod)

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Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:34 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Flamable? What exactly happens in there when the engnie is running?
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David Keeso (Argomag)

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Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:34 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

The way I think and engine works is that the gas is drawn into the cylenders, and as the gas goes in, the piston drives down to its lowest point, and the spark plug gives the spark to ignite the gas, while the piston comes up to the top, forcing the power of the explosion to give output. I think of it as a cardboard tube,then a box in the middle, with another tube on the other end. The gas comes in one tube to the box, ignites, and expels out the other tube.
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David Keeso (Argomag)

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Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:34 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

In addition to my other post above, I think that when you use something such as WD-40 or kerosene, to free up siezed parts, you are letting flammable objects into the engine where their are already explosions. The gas is extremely flammable, and it is contained somehow otherwise the engine would explode. I don't really understand the technicalities with it all, but I think that by adding other flammable objects, to something siezed in the engine itself, you are asking for a high risk situation. I think it also depends on what you have to spray or apply the stuff to to unseize the part. In the ARGO (not sure about current, but older ones for sure, ) their is a black duct that comes out the side of the engine (on the right side) and it has the round, thing (don't have any idea what its called, but is spinns with the engine, and air comes out, but if it is in there to free up the rod or whatever the pistons are connected to, than you may be alright. But anything flammable other than the gas that is pulled through, wouldn't that be a big risk or mistake?
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Roger Smith

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Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:34 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Hey David

Intake. intake valve opens, piston goes down drawing in fuel/air. piston reaches bottom, intake valve closes.

Compression. piston went back up and compressed the fuel/air.

Power. spark lights mixture near top of piston travel and boom. Expanding gases from controlled explosion push on piston, it goes down.

Exhaust. exhaust valve opens near bottom of piston travel, piston returns to top, exhaust valve closes. Intake valve is opening again as in first step.

down up down up = 4 strokes
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Verby

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Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:34 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Piston goes up compression stroke igniting the atomized gas. Piston goes down power stroke after atomized gas explodes (ignites).
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Verby

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Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:34 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Piston goes up compression stroke igniting the atomized gas. Piston goes down power stroke after atomized gas explodes (ignites).
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Bruce

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Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:34 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

On an old jeep I am working on... the engine was froze for more than a year while I soaked it with every thing I could imagine. I used ATF Fluid, power steering fluid, PB blaster, WD 40, karosine,
seafoam, and Coke.....also used a large hammer and a block of wood to pound on the pistons, with a 20 ton jack pushing up on the crank while I pounded on another piston going down...one year of soaking....and it is now free...and..( I would have never thought it would) it runs...Sure it burns some oil...but tearing it down to rebuild is
alot more fun when you know the thing will run. It can take a long time for a motor to freeze up, so it might take a long time to soak it free..but first look for any broken items that maybe jamming the engine. Take your time, if it is froze due to
rust, etc...it can me freed up...that is not to say that it will not need to be rebuilt at a later date, but it is amazing at times the abuse an engine will take and still run fine.
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Ignorant

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Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 10:34 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

I will try some of the methods that have been mentioned to free it up and see what happens.

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