Older Max 2 Restoration

Route 6x6 Discussion Board: Restoration of older ATV's: Older Max 2 Restoration
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By bvincent on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Hi all! Another newby! I had a seemingly quite old Max 2 follow me home recently. It had a JLO 297cc 2 stroke engine, that was just about shot. It came out easily, and there are plans to upgrade to a BS 4 stroke. However, I have some questions.

1. What is the body made of? I have not yet performed dberger's famous "test". The only serial number I can find is "03513" located on the bulkhead, under the drivers seat. I have a small split in the lower body that needs to be repaired.

2. As part of the rebuild, I want to make and install new solid axles,and solid jackshafts and install pillow block bearings on the axles and jackshafts. Has this been done before? Can anyone out there give me some bearing part #'s? what about #'s for the seals?

3. Has anyone upgraded one of these older machines to all #50 chain? With the planned upgrade in the power department, it seems that the current #40 chain driving the axles may be too weak.

Sorry about the length of this post, and thanks for any help.

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By david berger (Davidrrrd) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

#2, you will find that on the pasenger side the inner fraim rail may give you trouble with your pillow block bearings, the c channel is too small,
i have contenplated adding the inner bearings myself, i plan to just add 1" box tubeing 2 3/4 long upright into the c chanel with the holes drilled threw them and the c channel,
this will mount the bearings out away from there ends a bit and it is not the premium spot but i feal it is cloase enoph for my expirimenting anyway, as i have found inner bushings compleatly inadiquit,
for #3 id e-mail ieisenman@sinfo.net (ISAAC EISENMAN)
he has chainged out his #40 chain to all #50 and has good advice on the subject,
but the same machine shop that makes your solid axels should be able to do the sproket chainges to catelog sprokets for you too! get the better quality sprokets and make good meshurments first as it is a good idea to have your drive tubes go from inside the outer bearing to inside the inner bearing to keep the axle located instead of depending on cam lock bearings alone, in fact if you do this you can get away without cam lock bearings alltogether! this saves you from frozen bearings alot of times and they are much cheeper as well!
good luck dude!!

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By bvincent on Unrecorded Date: Edit

David: Thanks for the reply. I have been reading your post, and looking at my pile of parts, and I guess I am not sure what you are talking about. With respect to your response to my question #3, are you talking about the jackshafts, or the axles (or both) when you say to "have the drive tubes...".
Also, what about the body material? Is this ABS on a machine that is this old? I thought I saw in an earlier post that you also had an older max. What is the body on yours made of?
Also, I note that the new machines have "splined" axles. Where are the splines? Is this just to locate the sprockets, or is the entire axle splined? Is there a significant loss of strength if the axle is drilled for a bolt to locate the sprocket as it was originally?
What about o-ring chain? In some older posts, I thought I saw that you can't use new o-ring chain on the older machines as there isn't enough clearance between the chain and the frame rails, but of course now I can't find the post on this issue.

thanks to all for any help.

bill

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By david berger (Davidrrrd) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

i was speeking of the axel's ,
i ment long enoph to just about toutch ether bearing so just by it's lenth it could keep an axel and the sproket located in the right spot even if the camlock broke in outer bearingas!

far as jack shafts im not shur there what you should do.

splines:
are on inside to locate sprokets,
the bolt holes dident hurt much but the splines are an inprovment anyway,

o-ring:
you might have to build new sprokets to get clearence( but wait your goin to build new ones goin from 40 to 50 anyway huh)

yes your oldy is likely A.B.S., mines an 86 and made from the polyethilin,
but i have a number of the old aatv's made from A.B.S.
E-ME FOR PIC OF NEW SPLINE AXLE of if you still have A.B.S.questions


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