Buying? Info on 1968 Attex 300 Super Chief

Route 6x6 Discussion Board: Shop Talk: Tech Tips and Q&A section: Buying? Info on 1968 Attex 300 Super Chief
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Jay Barden (Jaybarden) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

I'm considering getting an Attex 300 SC and was hoping you may be able to tell me something about them. It's a 1968 so the first question is are parts still available? If so where ? What should I be looking at when I go check it out, are there any common problem areas I need to look at closer? Are they easy to work on? Can I get a service manual for it? How is the power of these units and do they hold up well? I would be using it for hunting,fishing,hills and playing around on the property. How fast are they and are they safe for a mature 12 year old to drive?

Sorry for the 20 questions, but I have never owned one of these beasts and want to make an educated decision weather or not to buy it. Also what would be a fair price for it?

Thanks for any help/Info , Jay

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By bigkodiak on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Jay,
I can't tell you much about an attex, but I can tell you I have restored an argo and 2 trailbosses. The parts may be available but you will have to hunt for them. Manuals, unless Richard has them are hard to come by. Don't be surprised if you have to tear the whole thing down and rebuild it. Old machines are great, but they require alot of maintenance and patience. Be prepared if the machine is in very bad condition to put as much as $1500+ into a total restore. Check the axles, chains, tires, transmission operation. Axles can be bent, chains may need lubrication or replaced, if you have to replace tires and rims with new you can drop $400-$500 quickly.
Don't overpay for the machine simply because it's there. I did that once and wound up losing money when I sold the machine. I personally would not pay more than $1000.00 for a machine this old in good shape. A reasonable offer (condition unknown) would be no more than $500. What is the person asking for it?

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Eric Magyor on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Things to look at:Try to wiggle wheels to see how much freeplay you get. Check for bad adjusters where the sprocket sits- if it's bad you'll have to make them- can't buy them. Look at the condition of the floor. Check the steering sticks- if you can't remove them you'll know what kind of care has been going into it! Many times the front frame will be cracked where the brake shoes fit in. Check the frame near the rear sprockets. Check the area where the transmission mounts to the frame-almost always cracked- make sure it's repairable. The list can go on and on, but this is a good place to start. You have to take into consideration how much the machine is going for also. I've had a few Attex's by now and picked up a basket case 500 Superchief once for $300 and put around $700 to get a very nice and reliable machine in return. If you can do all the work-axles, engine, etc. yourself you won't have an arm and leg tied up into it. If you do buy it be prepared to always keep up on maintenance. 6 wheelers are great machines but need lots of attention. A lot of people buy them ride them a few times then let them sit til the carb gums up and wonder why it won't run.

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By kush on Unrecorded Date: Edit

I agree with all of the above. I have (2) Attex's. A 252 Colt & a 300 ST\D. My problems have been, Chains, sprockets, bearings & tires.

Tires if on the 3 bolt rims must be replaced or use the adapters from Richard. Now you need tires & rims. Easy $300-600 there. If you already have 4 or 5 bolt rims you're halway there. Axles I've made from CRS. The body can be patched by different ods depending upon it's construction. Just like a car, the mechanics can usually be rebuilt, it's the bodies that must be in good shape.

Price out all you think will need to be replaced & add that to the asking price. Is it worth it? Will someone else pay that price when you want to sell it? If not pass on it. U==You will find others, just keep looking

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Jay Barden (Jaybarden) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

WOW theres a lot more to these things than I ever imagined.

I'm told it's in very good shape in every way except for a slow leak in one of the original flotation tires that he says are in nice condition.
We are talking a swap for a Dune Cycle 3 wheeler that I have about $1100 invested into. It has an 8Hp Honda,Torque Converter driving live axles with independant brakes,springer front end.

Are there access panels in the floor I can remove to check the Sprockets,chains,Bearings?

"Check the steering sticks- if you can't remove them you'll know what kind of care has been going into it!" How do they come out?

If you want to see my dune cycle I can email pics. Just drop me a request at exqqqqme@hotmail.com so we don't burn bandwidth here.

I'm still entertaining offers for the Dune Cycle.

Thanks to everyone for your help

Jay

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Bruce on Unrecorded Date: Edit

jay,

If it is in good shape like he says, and you are doing a trade, I would go for it. You can access all the chains, etc... and I think you are coming out ahead on this one. Good luck

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Eric Magyor on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Jay,
I wrote the steering sticks thing on the 6x6 post. The steering sticks are very simple to remove by taking out the pins and lifting them out from where they fit down into the rest of the steering linkage. But, many times a deglected machine will have the sticks rusted down into that part so bad that it really takes some time to remove them. I've had a few that I even had to destroy to remove. The thing is in order to adjust front chains, work on the front brakes, adjust your transmission, clean out debris, remove your battery, check bearings and sprockets, adjust steering levers you have to remove the floor. If those steering sticks won't come out either is the floor. If the sticks aren't coming out, you can bet all that other stuff wasn't being done.

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By david berger (Davidrrrd) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

ERIC FROM THE PIC'S JAY HAS I THINCK IT'S AN ERLYER MODLE AND POSABLY NOT A SUPERCHIFE,
THE REMOVEABLE LATERALS (STICKS) ARE IN THE SECOND GENERATION BODY AND THE PIC'S CLEARLY SHOW A MUFELER OPENING ON THE DRIVERS SIDE AND THE WRONG TYPE OF ENGINE COVER TO BE THE BODY STYLE YOUR DIRECTIONS ARE FOR, THERE IS ONE ON PETE CAGLES SITE THETS A REAL SUPERCHIFE AND IF HE STILL HAS IT , IT'S FOR SALE,
THERES A LINK OFF THE LINKS PAGE AND THE PIC'S ARE WELL WORTH CHECKING OUT, YOU CAN SEE THE DIFERENCE, THERE BIGER THAN THE OLDER STYLE LIGHTER DUTY MODLES, BETER YET BUY BOTH!
ONE FOR YOU AND ONE FOR THE KID'S

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Daron on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Axles on the 68 were very thin and prone to twisting and snapping.Dont be too surprised if you return home with only 5 wheels-( I have replaced 3,and I dont ride it hard)And if you have transmission trouble- well, good luck, because parts for that are hard to find.(its not a T-20) It should have a black plastic floor pan.Tilt the seat back, and the floor can be removed.You dont need to bother with the sticks....They mount on the frame under the floor.With the seat up, and the floor out,you can see everything.

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Jay Barden (Jaybarden) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Eric,Daron

Thanks for the help. I sent the owner pics of the T-20 and Baker-Hill trans and he said it was a T-20, but he identified the Baker hill pic as the one he has. So I know he doesn't have much knowledge of what he has.

Are these thin axles solid or tube style? It's starting to sound like this isn't the machine for me as I tend to use off road stuff fairly hard. But I'll still take a look at it. He'll be back with it this weekend so we'll see.

Jay

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Daron on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Jay,The axles are 1" solid.But then they are machined down in several steps to around 5/8".Mine has a square section on the tip that drives the sprocket.If that one has a bolt through the axle that holds the sprocket, it is a little newer.I could be wrong on this..... but I dont think they made a SC in 68.

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By kush on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Jay,

The 2 machines I have both have 1" solid axles. Bent but not broken. Ones a 72 252 & the other is earlier judging by the trans, body & frame style. BUt still 1" solid axles. 1" CRS & a steel cutting blade in a circular saw worked for me. I don't ride it too hard & I haven't bent any of the new axles yet.

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Jay Barden (Jaybarden) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

I think you are right about no SC in 68' The SC was a 500 CC machine right?

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By pete6x6 on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Jay,

Yes the SC had a 500. But over the years they more than likely get replaced because the 500 is hard to find parts for.


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