By Bill cripe (Bcripe) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Well I am starting to think about winter and running my Max. Does it make any sense to put tracks on a 14 horse Max for running on flat ground? I know most of you recommend 18hp minimum but for one-two people on flat ground ice fishing and stuff like that would it work? What would I need to do so I could run tracks.

Thanks,
BC

By Missouri's Max Dealer (Brandon_price) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

I would be more worried about the drivetrain than being low on power. The 14hp would probably move you around (slowly) but the wear and tear on the standard axles and chain would be excessive. You would definately need solid axles to go along with the track kit. The rest of the parts might get you by but regular chains and old bearings would lead a short life which equals more repair bills for you. The newer Max IIs above the 14hp model (16hp, 18hp, and 23hp) all come standard with o-ring chain and solid splined axles. Maxs newer than about '96 have a bearing on the inside also, where the axle meets up with the frame. Outer bearings have also be updated.

Are you sure you would even need tracks? A Max II will run real good in up to 12" of snow with just tires. Tracks are needed to go deeper than that since they keep the machine on top of the snow. I don't remember where you live so I don't know how much snow you plan to run in. I had a Max II with 22" tires and 14hp engine a few years ago. I was happy with how well it ran through the snow here in Missouri. It will still go up hills also, all it takes it is some spinning to get solid traction.

By Bill cripe (Bcripe) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Well, I live in CA but my place is in NW Montana where I grew up. There is usually about 2-3 feet at the most on the ground in the middle of the winter. Check out my website at www.yaakmeadows.com for some winter pictures at the gallery. My Max is a post 96. Do I need solid axles just on the corners or in the middle too? Will the hollow axles really bend that easily? What are the cage bearings?

Thanks alot!
BC

By Mike Longest on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Bill

I suggest you put solid axles in front and rear for sure.
I bought a set from Richard Clark for 325$ for all 6.
I do not know cost elsewere.

I am not using the extra bearing cages

Feel free to email me personally and I will be happy
to talk, or just use this message board.

Mike Longest

By Bill cripe (Bcripe) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Thanks Mike, do you see any abnormal wear without the bearing cages? Richards axles are alot cheaper than RI! I think one axle was about $180. Do the bearing cages only work with older Maxes? Fred, what do you think?

Thanks,
BC

By Fred Sowerwine, Montana's Max dealer (Fred4dot) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Bill, You have to know I have an opinion (have been busy staining my shop before the weather turns and not at the computer much for several days).

I think you are asking for trouble putting tracks on a 450T. At any elevation above 2800 or so feet, you are not going to have enough power to have a satisfactory performance from the 14 hp engine (maybe if you use a dial-a-jet you might get added performance if it can add a couple of horses).

Aside from the performance issue, I know it will take considerable upgrades to meet the reliability test. To use the old style track, you would at least need solid axles (the old style solid axle is fine) on all four corners. My guess is you would have 75% reliability (not good enough to go very far from home in cold weather- especially if you have special needs).

With the new track, you need the new forged steel axles (I think you can only get them from RI, but Richard might have some), bearing cages and the bearing rail all installed and you need to keep your air pressure under 5 PSI (all environments) for probably 99% reliability. Not perfect, but pretty good.

The reason for all this hardware is with the 15" wide solid rubber belt, extreme stress is put on the axles every time you turn and between the forged steel axles, the bearing cages and the bearing rail tie everything together and make the amount of axle taking the strain very small and close to the outer end of the axle. I am at about 4000 feet and go up to about 7000 feet and 18 HP is the very minimum for acceptable performance.

By Bill cripe (Bcripe) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Well a guy can hope... You know we are the lowest elevation in the state. I think my place is about 2500 feet but I think theres more snow here than any other place. Down by the Kootenai I think its something like 1700. No cell phone service within about 50 miles so its not too smart going too far alone. Maybe Ill just hang tight this winter and see what it will do. I doubt we will spend more than about 2 weeks up there this winter anyway. Do the bigger Maxes come with all the goods stock?

Thanks again,
BC

By Fred Sowerwine, Montana's Max dealer (Fred4dot) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Bill, Recreatives puts out two cheap models (they call them entry level); the Max II 450T (14 HP) and the Max IV 500T (16 HP) which have standard axles, sprockets and regular chain and are about $1000 lower priced. These models are just about exactly like the original max and are fine for people running around on flat land that do not want to test the machine. I personally think they should discontinue these models because just about everyone learns how to drive a max eventually (or sells it to someone else who learns how to drive it) and they want to do things that the "entry level" machine won't handle; then get mad at the machine. Even what I call a cheap Max is a good machine, but it will not hold up to things like tracks or hard long term use. All max can be retrofitted to be "top of the line" machines, but it can be pricey (cheaper in the long run to buy what you need to start with). Bigger engines are usually just "bragging power", except in high elevations, hauling big loads while climbing steep inclines and when using tracks.

Everything else that RI makes has the benefit of their excellent engineering and is a top quality machine. I encourage anyone thinking of tracks to get the bearing cages installed when they buy the machine as it is a very simple process to add them as the machine is being made. It can be done later, but requires pulling all the axles which is a major job (almost dismantling the entire machine). Once the bearing cages are installed it is a fairly easy job to put the tracks on.