By Bruce on Unrecorded Date: Edit

I just picked up an Attex Superchief. I am making
my own wheel adapters and need to know how to remove the three bolt hub from the axle. It appears that I need only remove the bolt that goes through the axle and then the hub should slide off of the axle. I am assuming that mine will not come off because they are rusted on. Before I take drastic measures to remove them, I thought I would ask here. Thanks for any advice.

Bruce (thanks for the great site too!!)

By JT Barleman on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Bruce,
IF your hubs look like a wire spool with a bolt going through the axle ... You are in all probability correct ... HOWEVER ... I'd look for any tack welds that may be present ...!
For two reasons I strongly suggest you remove the axle before trying to remove the hub. [1] The job is a lot less difficult if done in a vice. [2] IF you leave the axles in the machine ... YOU WILL PROBABLY TRASH THE BEARINGS AND/OR KEEPERS WHILE TRYING TO BEAT THE HUB FROM THE AXLE.
As an alternative to removing the hub ... you may want to simply bolt on an adapter (3 to 5 lug) plate using the three bolts on the existing hub.
This leaves you the option to use either the old "bagel" style balloon tires OR new type tires with 8inch rims.

JT

By Gary Harper (Garyinvt) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Bruce
Once you get them out you can also soak them in a large coffee can full of your "RUST BUSTER" of choice. This will aid in getting them apart if you want to. I would suggest to get them off so that you can inspect the axle area and hub, as rust may be making it tight now but as you put the toque to it, it may loosen up.

By Luke on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Bruce, Forget about using that 3 bolt adapter. Take a 3 inch piece of tubing with a 1" ID ( axle size ) and slide over axle and weld your 5 bolt plate to it. Then drill your hole through the tubing and rebolt to axle. Simple and eliminates the bulky 3 bolt adapter. Remember to use Antiseize in your tube before reinstalling your new 5 bolt adapter on axle!!! Eliminates rust forming in tubing!!! If you need more info let me know Luke

By Bruce on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Thanks for the advice. I did build and bolt on my wheel adapters and they work really nice. I did not take the hubs off but was going to to improve my adapters, maybe i don't need to make the improvement. My adapter is a simple quarter inch plate drilled to accept my bolt patterns. I was going to add an extension so the adapters extension would make contact with the inner tire guide that the old style tire/wheel engages. I thought it would be better than having just the flat adapter held on with the three nuts. Is this over kill and not needed? Has anyone had problems with the adapters breaking the three small studs off? If not, then I will just leave mine as they are.

Thanks again for the advice.

By Gary Harper (Garyinvt) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Here is another suggestion, if you are making your own adapters. Make it such that you can put a zerk fitting in the center over the axle. Than every time you grease the bearings, give it a pump.

By Brad on Unrecorded Date: Edit

I need some advice. I've got a 1998 Max II with the Rawhide III tires. I want as soft a ride as possible because of a bad back. The guy I bought the machine from said his brother has a Max with the same tires and runs no air at all in them and has no trouble with them coming off the rim. I've been running 1.5 Lb. with no problems so far. I think I've read somewhere on this site that the newer Max’s have a locking type rim is this true?
I would also like to say I think this is a great site and appreciate it being here. I've learned a lot from it and, it played a large part in helping me chose, which machine to purchase.
So a big thanks to all!

Brad