Bilge Pump Recommendations for a Max II

Route 6x6 Discussion Board: Shop Talk: Tech Tips and Q&A section: Bilge Pump Recommendations for a Max II
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By JHILLIARD on Unrecorded Date: Edit

So, what size bilge pumps ( GPM ) are being used successfully in a Max II with a stock electrical system. Specific makes and models would be even more helpful.

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By BlueKnightNJ@prodigy.net on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Bilage Pump:
Don't go crazy on this. I made my own by going to a junk yard and picking up 2 windshield washer pumps. (Get 2 in case 1 did not work) Using a hose clamp (to go around the pump) and a piece of flex steel, I mounted it to the frame with the water pickup placed in such a fashion that would get water. (be sure it has a screen on the intake) I got some flexible tubing and made a route path out to the side. Granted mine is mounted in the right channel. But the best place is in the rear where there are no channels and water would gather as you go forward. I wired mine hot with a switch on the front panel and a indicator light. This way when you are stopped you can run the pump for a minute or two and pump out.

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By JHILLIARD on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Blue Knight,
Interesting idea on the windshied pump. Just wondering if it would have enough flow if you really swamped.

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By barryhh3f on Unrecorded Date: Edit

It's not as creative as a custom system, but Wal Mart has 500 GPH bilge pumps on the shelf for $25.

Battery life: Depends on what you have. My Max IV has a full sized car 500 Amp battery. My Bigfoot has a much smaller battery and it can't have as much reserve as the car battery. Check the electrical draw of a bilge pump (it's on the package)VS what your battery will pull.

You can figure 7 gallons of water for every cubic foot space in the Max, to figure how long you would need to run a pump.

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Bill Aras (Blueknightnj) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Flow, cubit feet, GPM, Static Flow, ....
WHOA...tooooooooooooooo technical for me..
This was my attempt at SIMPLE CHEAP method of pumping out some water.
Anyway, I managed to get 2 of the same batteries on board my Max IV. Mounted one on the right rear fender and linked it with the other. Mounting was not that sophisticated, VELCO and a rubber strap. Hey it works! I mounted a trickle charger/battery warmer on the factory battery for those long periods of SIT. I was hoping to find any connection for a after market alternator kit to boost the juice out. Any thoughts group??
BlueKnightNJ

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By David Keeso (Argomag) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Bill Aras, I don't know if this helps, but the bilge in the ARGO that I have will empty == picture enough water in the lower body of the ARGO to come up to the underside of the back floorpan, and enough in the front to meet the bottom of the lowest point on the drive belt, and to meet the bottom of the brake disks. My bilge emptied this in 3 minutes before it couldn't suck anything else up. The problem with the bilge is that if its not in the lowest point, you still have to manually drain the rest of the water from the plug. The bilge I have is just a simple bilge from any marine type store. They don't cost much at all. YOu can likely do the wiring and ducting work yourself if you know how so this would save you some $$.

Hopefully this helps enough.

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By David Keeso (Argomag) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Bill, In addition, you could also get one of those pumps that you can attach your garden hose to and cut the hose down enough so that it reaches from the pump to the outside of the vehicle and then just wire it into the battery or wherever it goes and put a switch on the dash. You could route the hose through the openings from the engine compartment and just let it hang out enough that it runs off the vehicle and when its all out, shut the pump off. YOu can get a stand alone pump with no hoses or anything for about 15-20 bucks.

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By David Keeso (Argomag) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Here I go again with my multiple posts in a short time thing. Bill, I did some searching for you to help you out. This should help you determine a few things. First, the capacity of the pump that you should have, some of the better ones or cheeper ones and general info about them.

http://www.yachtsurvey.com/bilge_pumps.htm = read the second paragraph under CAPACITY OF PUMPS specifically, the last few sentances of this paragraph.

The main thing to keep in mind is the fact that water must be pumped up and out. The ratings of most bilge pumps are rated with the water flowing straight out or down, but not up. You also have to keep in mind that if the pump moves around in the bottom of the machine, it may end up upside down and end up being useless. It should be fastened down somehow if possible. Also, keep in mind that these machines don't have great charging systems- if any. If you are running your bilge for a long time, (hopefully not) the battery is getting run down as well. Simply having the engine running doesn't charge the battery. YOu have to actually run the engine to get a charge going, also keeping in mind that you have something running so the power that you are generating, is not all going back to the battery. You could install an alternator I think (don't know how or where) to give a better charging system- I don't know how that would compare to the system already in the machine- I don't even understand how it works to begin with) Also, keep in mind, where the water will sit in the bottom of the vehicle most of the time if their is any. If it is sitting, it may be throughout the vehicle, or if you are running, it may be all at the back. On my ARGO, the bilge is in the worst possible spot. It is basically just behind the trannsmission on the left side, but on the flat piece that the engine mounts to. That isn't even close to the lowest point so a lot of water gets left for a manual drain.

Good luck!

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By barryhh3f on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Well you should figure it out. The AATVs are built as a water tight tub. If it is 6 inches deep in water, how days is it going to take to empty it if your pump has a 1/8 inch output hose like a windshield washer pump. A bilge pump will have at least a 3/4 inch output hose and will take minutes not days to pump out you MAX. Thats why a bought a 500 GPH pump for my Bigfoot. I have dual 750s on my 17 ft. jet boat and when you want the water out, you want to do more than just stay even with the rain or leakage. I

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Bill Aras (Blueknightnj) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Ok Ok, I was not the one to start this PUMP thingy, in fact I was only putting my 2 cents in.
However let me clarify a couple of easy things.
First of all, the W/Washer pumps do the job. They are designed to pump from one end of a car/suv to the back through Yes, 1/8" hose. Some cases they service several nozzels at once. Secondly I do have my little pump mounted and not flopp'n around the bottom. ... and finally, these are little 12volt motors that use next to nothing to power.
Now the obviouse:
If I had that much water on board, I'd better find some land fast!
If it was raining, I have a roof!
If if was raining hard, I'd seek shelter on land.
And if I really need to drain out my baby, I can alway park slightly on an incline and pop the drain plugs.
I hope the person that started this Pump Lesson is getting all this!!!
-
Anyway in the end we all do what works for us. Thank goodness I have not had that much water on board to make it a major concern.
-
My best to all!!
Bill (BlueKnightNJ)
BlueKnightNJ@prodigy.net

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By David Keeso (Argomag) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Bill, I was not implying that you would have that much water in the vehicle. I was trying to help you out as best I could so I did some looking and thats just what i came up with. Simply, things to watch out for, and ideas. Thats all I was trying to do. Sorry if you took it the wrong way!

Sorry for trying

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Bill Aras (Blueknightnj) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Taking it
Thats the FUN about bulleting boards!
Never said you were implying anything, I love this board and find it and the people on it fantastic. Anyone who uses, Instant Messager, E-mail and boards should always remember it is very difficult to get how someone is feeling. Emotions dont carry through electronic means!
So for the record, I am happy with your comments, appreciate everyone's feed back and it was not me that started this pump thing..
Have a great weekend...

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By steve on Unrecorded Date: Edit

hello guys
i bought a max II in oct of 2003 iam still not sure if iam going to keep it or sell. the ride is to hard,the control suck. what i would really like to to is change the controls so that there more like the argo's seems like that would be better for the hands on a long ride. any info on this would help me out.
thanks steve

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Fred Sowerwine, Montana's Max dealer (Fred4dot) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Heck Steve, just take your steering laterals off and take them to a pipe bender and bend the ends over (The throttle will work like a quad and you won't have to worry about water getting in your throttle cable. If and when you get tired of that, you can just take them to the same fella and have him straighten them back out again.

About the ride - take some air out of your tires. The factory says 3 PSI, but most of us run less than that. And if that isn't enough, make your self an air pillow out of a little tube. Tie it together with string so it stays under you and put just enough air in it to raise you off the seat about 1/2 inch. You will think you are in a Caddy.

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By JHILLIARD on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Hey Guys,
I appreciate your input on my post and the information you have given me concerning bilge pumps.
Thanks again. Jack

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Bill Aras (Blueknightnj) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

The Controls, not saying mine suck, buy with my MaxIV I too would like to have better style controls or something that retro-fits my controls to make them a little bit easier to use.

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Fred Sowerwine, Montana's Max dealer (Fred4dot) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Sorry Steve, I forgot that you wouldn't be able to get your seat/floor pan off (I was thinking about a Max IV. Any way, go to that same pipe bender and have him bend you two handles that will fit in the top of your present laterals Use the same size pipe with a slide in compressed fit) - a couple of bolts through your new handles and the original laterals will hold them in place. To get your rubber handles off, blow compressed air through the little hole and hang on.

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By steve on Unrecorded Date: Edit

thanks fred
i was wondering if i could still use my same
throttle cable on this set up.

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Big Wolf on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Hell I will take that 03 Max II off your hands, I have an 03-04 Max IV and I like it, its the best best off road atv I have ever drove in. I retired the Yamaha 4x4 Kodiak, finally got tired of pushing it out of the mug, and getting smacked in the face by brush, and nearly tearing my feet off when going through heavy under brush or my foot slipped off.

Also bought a new F-350 dually turbo diesel last spring instead of the F-150. The F-350 with the heaviest suspension package is a much stiffer ride than riding in the F-150 which is like riding in a Lincoln Town Car.

When you are riding in a 6x6 or 8x8 or and F-350 with a heavy suspension, you know you are in a machine that has the stones to get the job done!

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By david berger (Davidrrrd) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

steve (duckdaa)the controles on an argo would make you tired on a long ride too, the twist grip throtle is tough on you,
a guy i gave a ride too years ago stoped by erlyer this week and showed me an amp-hicat he bought, he had a triger throtle from a weed wacker in it, wow now thats what we need for our 6x6's, won't get water in it, wont where you out useing it and would make max and argo machines more enjoyable to drive, i shur hope the respective factorys take notice to this post, it's the next best upgrade id like too see,
(not that an aluminum throttle was shabby)

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By David Keeso (Argomag) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Big Wolf, As far as I am away from owning my own vehicle, that truck you are talking about is my future dream truck. I have seen that one you are talking about in the dealerships here and I want one a lot! They definatly have the balls to get the job done, over and over and over again. You could use the bed as a trailer for your MAX even!

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Big Wolf on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Well it only took me about half my life to finally afford to buy one David! I will share more about he new F-350 with you guys over time, as I put it through its paces. I pull my wifes 12,000 fifth wheel camper (Mobile Hunting Base Camp) through the hills and mountains, with authority! I am amazed with the power that it has.

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By steve on Unrecorded Date: Edit

big wolf
your in email box is full how do i contact you. e-mail me please. steve

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Big Wolf on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Hey Steve,

You can post your 2003 Max II for sale on the Route 6x6 classifieds. It will sell, all used machines priced right seem to sell like hot cakes!

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Missouri's Max Dealer (Brandon_price) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Steve where are you located? Maybe one of us are close enough to drop by and show you how to operate the Max to full performance. Don't bail on this superior ATV to quickly.

That is a super nice truck Big Wolf. I hope to be driving a Powerstroke by spring time. I'm looking more in the area of a '99 to get the new body style. I would sure like to get the Torqshift automatic but I don't want to go that new. One thing is for sure, there is nothing like a truck Built Ford Tough!

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Jon Hoath on Unrecorded Date: Edit

I will half to agree with brandon on that.

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By duckdaa on Unrecorded Date: Edit


iam in a little town outside of rochester,ny called leroy new york home of jello. but thanks anyways, yes big wolf i will list my 2003 max II on richards site, but i lost the info he sent me and i have to write him back again as to how to list my max. anyways guys i went riding with a friend of mine who has a 4 wheeler, all i did was get stuck and bottom out. now he went through the snow like nothing. am i doing something wrong???. please help. thats why i wanna trade my max or sell it for a 4 wheeler seems better.maybe its the speed or the fact that i dont know how to drive the max iam not sure any help on this would be helpfull thanks. steve

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Big Wolf on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Steve,

If you can afford to install the track kit, it will keep you on top of the snow and just about every thing else! You will not win any races against the quad ATV, until such time you start going through the real serious stuff. Then you will end up towing your buddy out of every thing that he attempts to follow you through!

Your problem currently is not enough ground clearance, versus your buddies quad with bigger wheels and higher ground clearance. Rest assured you put the track kit on your Max II, and the next couple of big snow falls, you be out there with probing rods trying to locate that quad ATV that got lost in the snow drifts, while sitting in the comfort of your machine on top of the snow drifts!

Stay with it if you really do like the Max machine.

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By John Schwab (Johnschwab) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Duckdaa-Brandon is correct. Don't give up prematurely on your MaxII, it is a very capable and I believe the most fun of the modern Amphibs. I have ridden 4x4 quads for decades and when I first got my MaxII I felt quite clumbsy until I learned how to make it go. I am about an hour west of you in Forestville NY and as soon as winter gives us a break we should get together and ride. Our club (Ribits Riders) is based in the Buffalo area and most of us have Max models. A rule of thumb I use for deep snow is: if my Honda Foreman 4X4 can't get through, than neither can the Max however the Foreman is a lot easier to get unstuck. With some experience and by watching other riders you will grow to love riding your Max as much as I have.

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By OJIMMYC on Unrecorded Date: Edit

HI JACK,
ABOUT THE BILGE PUMP. I MAY HAVE WENT OVERBOARD ON MINE, BUT I BOUGHT A 1000GPH PUMP FOR 34.00 AT A LOCAL BOAT SHOP. IT HAS AN EXCHANGEABLE PUMP UNIT. THEY COST 18.00. SINCE ALL THE CRAP GETS IN THE BOTTOM OF THE 6X6'S, THERE'S ALWAYS A CHANCE OF BURNING OUT OR LOCKING UP A PUMP. THEY HAVE THE LARGE HOSES, YOU CAN MOUNT THE OUTLET IN THE SIDE OF YOUR UNIT. MINE IS ON THE LEFT UPPER REAR SIDE OF MY MAX 1V. AS FAR AS THE 1000GPH, I WILL TAKE NO CHANCES WHEN WATER IS COMING IN. IF IT'S A SMALL LEAK YOUR WORRYING ABOUT, A SMALL PUMP WILL SURFICE, BUT IF YOU HIT SOMETHING AND SLICE OPEN THE BOTTOM OR BLOW OUT A PLUG AND WATER COMES GUSHING IN AND YOUR IN 5+ FT OF WATER, THEN GPH IS GOING TO REALLY BE A FACTOR. I'LL STAY WITH THE 1000GPH. I WOULD HAVE A BETTER CHANCE OF MAKING IT TO SHORE IF I'M PUMPING OUT AS MUCH AS IS COMING IN. THE DIFFERENCE IN A 500GPH AND 1000GPH PUMP IS ABOUT $6.00. YOU DO THE MATH....JIM, DENVER

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Mike Longest on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Jim

Good point, a little more money for a lot more gallons per hour.
I think your idea is really worthwhile.

Do you run a screen over the pump inlet. In fact I mounted
mine up off the bottom about one inch, in order to keep the crap
out, as you understand it is no good if the pump is plugged

Mike Longest

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Marc hanses on Unrecorded Date: Edit

I have a max 2 and I built a tall bracket that comes off the rear passenger side of the frame about 10", then I bolted a RV water pump to the brk.It's 12 volt so it works fine with the battery, I then ran two 3/4 hoses down to each side of the lowest channell of the hull and covered the ends of the hoses with 4 layers of window screen to keep out small debris.Then ran a switch to the dash, got to be carful not to hit the switch by accedent and turn it on so I un clip the hot lead fron the switch to play it safe.The nice thing about the rv pump is that it self primes and sucks the air and then water up the hoses and then out the back of the body hole.As for the cost of a rv pump I got this one from a friend , he said they cost about 60.00 new.I cant remember how many galons per hour it does but it pumps pretty fast.Just try not to hose it down there not water resistant.Also you can dissemble it and looks like you could replace a worn impeller if you ever had to .Hope this helps.

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By EugeneKochnieff ( - 210.49.118.165) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Guys, If you need a bilge pump you need a bilge pump, simply if you take you AATV into water deep enough to sink it you need 1500 GPH thats right this will draw power but not too much for a battery/vehicle in good condition. If you only want to remove leakage the washer pump idea is great, but if you take water over the side it comes in a wave that may put 50-100gallons in it in a second this is scary stuff, with all that water in the vehicle you sit lower in the water and the next wave will put in more. Most swampings take at most 3 waves usually 1 or 2.
I had a small aluminium boat that only had 10" free board and when i took a big wave over the side i was glad to have a big pump, still took 5 minutes to empty but I am sure it saved me, and I had the benefit of lifting the boat up on to the plane to help drain it, In an AATV all you have is the pump.

Any how even the biggest pumps are cheaper than losing your machine in a lake!!!!


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