Archive through January 11, 2001

Route 6x6 Discussion Board: Driving Tips and Techniques: 6X6 IN THE WATER: Archive through January 11, 2001
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Mark Fischer on Unrecorded Date: Edit

I just bought a 70's vintage "Scooter" six wheel ATV. Could not bring myself to spend 6g's on a MAX just yet. The things works great, although with the Kohler two cycle I smell like exhaust for about two hours after I drive it. I want to install a rollbar and belts for safety sake. Should I anchor it to the frame way down there, or should a good size brace on the fiberglass be adequate? What to the current production vehicles do?

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Harry Dusseau (Dirtyharry) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Mark-

I don't know what Argo does, but my MAX II rollbar goes through the top half of the body and attaches to the frame. I was able to mount it myself in one afternoon. It only took an hour or so, and I did it by myself. If you make your own rollbar or rollcage, make sure it's good and strong! Don't skimp on tube thickness or diameter. This thing has to support the entire weight of the vehicle if it flips. Better to overbuild than underbuild.

Don't bother trying to anchor ANY rollbar/cage to the body. Fiberglass will most likely crack in a rollover and the bar would be torn off or driven through the body into the frame, or in a worst case crash, be forced straight through the top AND bottom halves of the body! Regardless, someone could end up seriously hurt or dead!

Tie your rollbar into the frame. It may take a little more engineering and time, but it will be a zillion times sturdier and safer. Plus it will then be strong enough to add on things without fear of over-stressing it. A lightbar, gun rack, cargo box, you name it. Good luck!

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By P.J. on Unrecorded Date: Edit

HELLO ACADIA WHERE EVER YOU ARE

Back on May 11/00 you wrote about a custom motor mount. If you are out there ACADIA, please try to describe your system in a little more detail. I would like to try it.

P.J.

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Kyle L.Vogt (Cmdrvogt) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

I just took my 2000 Mdl Max 900T for a swim and it was incredible! I had no problem stearing whatsoever,just like I was on land (not as fast a responce though),pull back for the direction you want to go. I'd have to geuss as to the actual speed,but the factory says 6 Mph and I believe them ! I never needed to lean to stear,but I did move into the middle for better balance as I was solo.I and several others who watched, where thoroughly impressed with how well the Max handeled in the water! I noticed a definate increase in speed from 1/2 to full throttle in the water. Also when you nail the throttle ,the front end picks up about 6 inches out of the water and churns up quite a wake of about 1 1/2 Ft.w/ lots of foam! I don't know anything of the older Max's,but the new 2000 Mobels are VERY well designed & enginered. As far as I know,The Max 900T is the best bang for the buck for around 9000 + K when compared to the cost of other machines(25 HP Kohler,Hvy Dty splined axles,O-ringed chain,skid plates,'26 Tires, Spacious leg space front & rear and a newly desinged body)that run around 10,500, and only go around 18 mph. The 900T does an easy 33 mph,and handles very well. Thanks, Kyle

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Dave Blackburn (Dave) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

OOOH!! I'm as green as My Power-Trac!!! If my legs worked I'd be Kicking my self in the ass but good! It sounds like the new Max 900T is everything this Power-Trac isn't!!

Go Max!!!

No that ain't Kermit the frog in a wheelchair, it's just Dave wishing he'd bought a Max!!
Dave

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By MoralDK on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Reaffirming Mike Abby's comments above about acrylic (plexi-glass) vs Lexan (polycarbonate) for windshield use. Standard Lexan is softer than acrylic, thus it scratches easier. Lexan will only break in the freakiest accident-probably never on an AATV. I used to sell Lexan and for demo's we'd wail on it with an axe, never a break. Acrylic and Lexan both come in a scratch resistant grade. More expensive than normal. Lexan is more forgiving and slightly easier to cut than acrylic.
I would be comfortable drilling and fastening Lexan directly to a roll bar or installing snaps for a top. Drill holes may present cracking problems with acrylic. I just called a plastic store and they quoted me on scratch resistant Tuffact, a Lexan competitor.
3/16" 4x8 sheet: 274.53
1/4" " " : 316.15
Not cheap....probably better deals around.
Most plastic shops will cut to size and there's a possibility you won't have to buy a whole sheet. The shop I worked at offered these materials for office floor mat use (under desks for roll around chairs). We used a jig and a router to round the corners. Your shop may offer the same service. A sabersaw and a file works good too.
MoralDK

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Jon Danilovitz, PA Max Dealer (Jon) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Kyle,

How much more leg room is in the new 900t. I am a dealer in Pa eagerly waiting the new 900t. Should be here any day. Thanks in advance.

Jon

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By MaxRules (Brandon_price) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

The backseat of the Max IV was moved back 6". I think it has the same amount of leg room in the back as it does in the front. They took space away from the engine compartment to make more leg room. That is a good idea since it doesn't make the machine any longer. My Hustler is the same lenght as the Max IV (96") and it will barely fit into the back of my truck with the tail gate closed.

MaxRules

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Kyle L.Vogt (Cmdrvogt) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Jon, I'm not sure when compared to an older model as I've never seen one! The 900T is excepionally roomy(is that a word ?) with plenty of space front & back. The 900T is well worth it's wieght when compared to other machines(no,this is not a sales pitch or push for Max,just the honest oppinion of someone who's had enough ,and believes you get what you pay for(depending on what it is & who you buy from!) and did'nt want to spend good money ,only to have to be working on it all the time!)as it wieghs approx 1000 Lbs! It's REAL close to being as fast as a 2 stroke,yet with gobs of low end torque,yet still very responsive in handling! All in all,I'm VERY impressed & happy with the 900T,and no I'm not a little biased ,just alot! Feel free to E-mail me if I can be of any assistance! Kyle

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Dragon on Unrecorded Date: Edit

I'm building a cab for my BigFoot and want to use Lexan because it sounds like the best. However, I have a couple of questions that maybe some pros out here can help me with.

1. How thick does the Lexan need to be? Is 1/8" too thin? I will be using it in winter on the lake. (no trees to worry about!)

2. Will Lexan fog up? If it does, then I have a definite problem. I need something that will not fog up because I will be using it in cold temperatures.

Thanks

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Tim Wafer (Iflyrctoo) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

I think the 1/8' Lexan would be fine for the use you describe. It's tough stuff but will scratch fairly easy. I don't see any reason it would fog up any worse than other materials but it may fog up in certain conditions. First put Rain-X or a similar product on it. I also installed a hand operated windshield wiper from JC Whitney on mine. For the inside I added a 12-volt defroster that plugs into the cigarette lighter but it is very seldom needed. Sure is nice in the cab on a cold stormy day though!
Tim

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Dragon on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Thanks Tim

I never thought of using a 12 volt defroster. It would also provide some extra heat. Thanks.

btw, what is Rain-X?

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Tim Wafer (Iflyrctoo) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Rain-X is a liquid you can put on windshields to help prevent fogging and make water bead up and run off. You can get it at any auto parts store or most hardware stores with an auto department. There are other brands that are similar.
Tim

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Douglas MacCullagh (Dougmac) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

I was looking through the latest Cabela's catalog, and spotted an item sold for 4-wheelers. It consists of a ring of 5 or 6 rubber paddles that attach to the wheel rim, and it is sold to assist 4-wheelers in crossing mud. However, I was wondering how something like this might change performance of a 6x6 or 8x8 in the water. Any ideas?

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Al Sorkin on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Can a Max be used in salt water? What precautions are to be implemented to minimize problems?

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By MaxRules (Brandon_price) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

I have heard of Max and Argos being used in salt water. You will just have to wash it and grease the bearings after each use.

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By John on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Yes!! Wash with fresh water after running in
salt water.

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By waynew on Unrecorded Date: Edit

i saw thoes padles to i am also consedering them they should work really good if you get them befor I do let me know how they work.

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Tim Wafer (Iflyrctoo) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

I found a piece of ¼" Lexan that I am going to make another windshield for my Max IV with. I have the factory roll bar with all the snaps for the enclosed cab and windshield but would like just a windshield for the summer. I get covered with hundreds of bugs this time of year when the grass and weeds are high. The machine just scoops them in by the bushel. I'm hoping this will deflect the majority of them. I was planning on just putting some snaps on the top and bottom edge of the Lexan and snapping it to the existing snaps on the body and top of the roll bar. I was looking for apiece of 3/8" with the scratch resistant coating but couldn't find anyone who carried it. They had regular Lexan but not that stuff. I got this piece for free so I'm not out anything. It's big enough to get two out of although it already has a few scratches. It was used as a door for a cabinet. Anyone know where to get the scratch resistant kind if this proves too easily scratched? I anticipate it's in for some rough treatment.
Tim

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By P.J. on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Has anyone ever seen pontoons used with an AATV?

P.J.

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By P.J. on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Has anyone ever seen pontoons used with an AATV?

P.J.

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Marc Stobinski (Jerseybigfoot) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

I have photos of a Hustler 980 that had 2 small pontoons that were attached to fold out outriggers so it was more stable in the water. The pontoons were stowed on a rack on the tail of the Hustler. Can email the photos if you like.

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Matt DeCicco on Unrecorded Date: Edit

hi,i have an attex 400 chief with a 440 jlo engine.i took it out in the water for the first time and it was fun but slow.i have an idea to improve it in water,i was thinking of welding 3 paddles on each axel about 1.5 inches wide and 2 inches long out of 1/4" steal with rounded corners and maybe a cupped middle.any ideas to improve my idea?im going to start in about 2 weeks and ill let you know how it works.

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By john colligan on Unrecorded Date: Edit

I have a '99 Max IV. I hunt in a brackish marsh and I am alarmed at the amount of corrosion taking place on all metal parts. Anyone have any idea of something to maybe spray on these parts that won't come off too easily? Wd40 is way too light.Also this Max gets stuck way more than it should. I put tracks on it and they help some but if the bottom of the machine is dragging at all especially when coming out of a small ditch, the machine sits there with the tracks spinning and can't get a bite to climb out on the other side and my land is criss-crossed with these ditches(old trapper's canals).It also does this even if the bottom is not touching the ground. When this happens I have to get out and try to pull it out. Are there any kind of clests to add to these tracks for additional "bite"? By the time I get to the goose blind I am exhausted and the birds have started to fly. Also, it has an 18 horse briggs that only runs if the choke pulled out 1/2 way.I love this machine and a 4 wheeler would not work at all but I am starting to lose patience.Any help at all would be greatly appreciated to say the least.Thanks.

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Henry Pitts (Henry) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

John: I use a MAX II in the marshes and creeks of the eastern shore of Maryland for duck hunting. You must religiously was the machine with fresh water after every use. That will take care of the corrosion problem. Don't forget to remove the drain plugs and was the inside as well. I carry two 2x10 boards about 5 feet long to bridge over the ditches. We have a lot of mosquito control ditches that are about 3 feet wide with straight sides - cut with a back hoe. The MAX would never cross these without the boards. I am thinking of getting light weight aluminum ramps that Northern Equip. sells that might be lighter and easier. I'm not sure you want additional bite - all that would do is dig you in faster. The key is to not dig in but keep the machine on top of the marsh. I don't have tracks and I just stay away from the real soft, soupy stuff. Hope this helps.

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Douglas MacCullagh (Dougmac) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

John -

First recommendation is have a Briggs service center check out your engine. I had similar trouble with a 16 HP Briggs engine. A visit to the service center worked wonders. As for corrosion, sacraficial zincs might help. Zinc washers on the lugs (outside the lug nuts), maybe zinc collars on the axles. A marine supply house may be able to help.

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Fred Sowerwine, Montana's Max Dealer (Fred4dot) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

John,
About the engine, 1st, check the air filter (sometimes people get too much oil on the foam pre filter and it fouls the paper one - they can be washed in soap and water and let dry). You can try a spray type carb cleaner (you could have bad fuel buildup in the carb). Check your fuel filter. If all this fails, find a good Briggs & Stratton Service center to adjust or clean your carb (don't let them drop your Maximum RPM to 3600 like some want to do).

You could try chain saw bar oil or just plain grease to protect your metal parts, but be aware that they will attract dirt.

About your track traction. I agree they don't have much bite. I have not done it yet, but one idea is to pop rivit or bolt some angle iron in the outer segments of the track (make sure it won't hit the body). Another idea is to use old tire casings (part of the sidewall and part of the tread area) and fasten them on the same way. I'm not familiar with snow mobile lugs, but there might be something there that would bolt on and work. The first one I will try is the tire casings because they will fold over on hard stuff and my hope is that they will give some water propulsion. About anything you can come up with on the part that sticks out past the body should solve your problem. What I have been doing is take two 60 foot lengths of 2" webbing along - I tie the webbing to the track (or around the tire) and drive a stake in the ground (if there is no tree, etc.) to anchor the other end to and walk the machine (drive from outside with the machine empty) to good footing.

If you come up with a good track traction lug, let us know, please.

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By MaxRules (Brandon_price) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

John - Your carb is probably getting clogged. It is really easy clean. Most importantly, your engine can't be running all half assed and screwed up and you expect your Max to go anywhere.
18hp is not enough motor to turn those tracks. It is really not sufficient, in my opinion, for 26" tires when it gets burried in the mud. Having enough motor turning those wheels will take you more places. I get stuck because the 14hp engine can barely turn 22" tires. It's at the machine shop right now getting bored out. It will have new pistons, rods, dual strait pipes, and modified valves and rocker arms. It will run at 6000 RPM. If you really want to go places you should do the same to your 18hp!
If you see a place you may get stuck, hit it with some speed. If traction won't take you there, maybe speed will.

MaxRules

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By john colligan on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Thanks for all the info guys. I was wondering if drilling holes thru the outside edge of the track(away from the body)and then inserting and bolting a 3-4" long bolt of 1/2" diameter or so thru the track would help the traction problem. Maybe put 20 on each side.

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Fred Sowerwine, Montana's Max Dealer (Fred4dot) on Unrecorded Date: Edit

John, You need to maintain the integrity of the track (not tear it up) and I think a bolt that long would be hard to keep attached (would require a plate on both sides of the rubber). I think an inch by 5/16" bolt would not hurt the track, but that would only be a benefit on icey situations. I think to help in the mud, it needs to be something that will scoop into the mud.

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Tundra on Unrecorded Date: Edit

I don't have tracks on my Max so I haven't tried this. But, what comes to mind when you inquired about trak cleats is a snowmobile. I spend five months a year on one. Look in any snowmobile catolog like; shade tree, dennis kirk, and J.R. Graham. There are enough track traction devices to make your head spin, Spikes, Claws, Cleats, ect..

Good luck, Tundra

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Shippeefamily on Unrecorded Date: Edit

I have heard of problems witht he max's throttle cable freezing in cold weather...anyone experience this. How are they for Ice Fishing?

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Joe Mandere on Unrecorded Date: Edit

Just get the heated throttle cable. My dealer threw it in on my deal. My cable has only frozen once, and it thawed with in 7 miniutes. By the way I live outside of Buffalo and we just had 2 months straight with below freezing temperatures.

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